The preservation of "Hoover" - my '51 CJ3A

[JeepFever]

This is the M2C1 rules!

You should measure 2 times and cut 1 time.�

There is also other variant of that rules

You are exactly right!

My problem was that I did not measure everything.   Kinda hard to explain,  but I was making some assumptions. . .   In my case the outside skin was sagging in the middle.  The fact that the quarterpanel is so banged up,  and other factors had me fooled.

I am not taking any photos of the screw-up.   

Man,  it is COLD out there this evening.   I don't have any heat in that side of garage.

Just got a package today.      I decided to order the M38 removeable floor plates from Walck's.   Now to see how they fit.   They go a lot higher than I expected under the dash.   I might modify that one piece,  and not cut so high. 
.

[JeepFever]

A quick update . .� many hours have been spent,� but the progress is slow.��

Here is photo of floor panels in test fit.� �I am using screws until everything lines up,� then will start to spot weld.� �. .� �It is tough trying to get everything in place,� when all I have to measure to is "air" and bent rusty metal.� �

The gray piece of metal is cut out of a piece of shelving.� I ran out of the raw sheet metal.� � It is .075 thick,� not sure what ga. that would be,� but it is stiff to work with,� should make a sturdy floor.� haha
� ��



This is what's left of the tranny tunnel after cutting it out.� �I will be replacing with Walck's M38 removeable panels.� . .� the gas pedal is not attached in photo,� (if it looks a little out of place).� . .� you can see where a PO had cut the tunnel behind the tcase levers,� I assume to make it easier to remove something.� �Those stock holes are too small !!�




I decided to bolt the old tunnel to the back of the new plate while fitting it.� �This way I can make sure all the holes line up.� �I plan to one day put PTO on Hoover,� so want that hole to line up also.

This photo makes it look so easy,� �just set it in place,� but it took me a LONG time to get everything lined up.� �. .� again,� it is temporarily fastened with screws,� �I still need to fabricate the rear tunnel before I start welding.




View from the other side.� . .� � for anyone familiar with the M38 panels - >� the upper one actually extends much further up behind the dash.� �I cut 4-5" off,� to be able to keep the stock dash bracket.� � I am not sure why we would want the cowling to be cut up that high.� �I might find out later,� but for now this might look a "liitle" more stock,� and not weaken the tub as much.

I just noticed looking at photo . . you can see my footprint from where I was standing on the back flange,  and pulling the top back,  trying to get it to fit.   

[Bob W]

Nice work!!!

It probably doesn't matter but the M-38 floor had one more small removable panel around the top side of the steering column.

[Ryan_M]

Just imagine how many hours would have been saved, blood not lost, and foul language not dispensed if every 3A had rolled off the line outfitted with panels like yours has now.

[1955CJ-5]

I'm with Ryan...the CJ-5 has those panels and it makes access a breeze compared to a stock 3a.

Is that a(brass?)door knob on your low-range shift lever?

[JeepFever]

BobW:� �Thanks!
Ryan: You are right!�

Is that a(brass?)door knob on your low-range shift lever?

Very observant!!� � �. .� I had noticed earlier that the knob appeared to be non-stock,� but did not have a clue it was a brass door knob� � �. .� �today, I removed it,� and sure enough - >� the "hole" is square,�� �so someone must have forced onto the shaft , forming an internal thread in the process.

In addition -> the tranny shifter knob might be the matching door knob from other side.� :-/  it is metallic (brass?) also.

I might just leave these knobs as-is.  .  . to preserve the history of Hoover.   

[JeepFever]

This week's progress . . 
 - all the test-fit floor panels were unbolted
 - center hat-channel welded in
 - hat-channels given another coat of "truck bed liner"
    (maybe not the ultimate coating, but seems to stick well)
 - tranny tunnel fabricated and spot-welded in
 - started spot-welding the floor

Tomorrow I hope to finish spot-welding the floor.

Unfortunately, Hoover has to give up his position in the garage,  so progress will be much slower for a few weeks.

Before and after photos:

[JeepFever]

Changing gears  (pun intended)

To make it easier to get the M38 floor panels in place, (over and over while test fitting)   I decided to remove the tranny cover and shift lever.  . .   I was also curious about the internal condition of the tranny.

I was happy with what I found.  . .  Some occasional surface rust,  but the sychro teeth look decent (I think) 

Any thoughts on condition?

[Ryan_M]

I think one of the toughest parts of rebuilding the transmission in my 3A was determining the condition of the components. It doesn't take much visually obvious wear to have an impact on slop or jumping out of second gear.

The chevrons on your second gear and synchro assembly look pretty worn down to me. Depending on the time, money, and ambition you have now might be the time to freshen up the transmission. NOS second gear parts are still available on eBay and a few vendors. Bearings, seals, and general overhaul kits are available just about anywhere but some are better than others.

Here's some pics that might help you.

Old second gear. Notice the chips and wear on the chevrons.


NOS second gear from Brent Mullins.


Side by side comparison. NOS on left, old one on right.


USA made synchro assembly as found on eBay


Reassembled with all the new goodies:


Now would be the easiest time to overhaul the tranny but, hey, if not, you'll have those handy removable floor panels so pulling it out any time later on should be a breeze�

[JeepFever]

.
Thanks Ryan,  some good info there.

I plan to open up the tranny and tcase to check for condition at some point.  Makes sense to do now while easy to get to.

[JeepFever]

.
A couple photos . . I mainly took these to send to my sister . . .� �she was there when I hauled Hoover away from our parents' property a couple months ago.� � She thought I was crazy to take on such a project,� haha

edit:   I just noticed the carton behind my pile of rust . .  kinda appropriate.   

[athawk11]

Your tub is turning out nicely.� I remember taking a similar photo of the pile of rusty metal removed from the tub.� It's kind of fun to look back at those.

Ryan showed you some 2nd gear wear.� I'll show you some clutch hub wear....



In your photo, it looks like the chevrons on the clutch hub may be a bit chewed up, like mine.� I removed the tranny multiple times and replaced multiple parts until it no longer jumped out of 2nd gear.� Adding a shim and replacing this part finally gave me joy.

Tim

[JeepFever]

Wow,  where have the months gone?   I got a couple ball-peen hammers as birthday present this weekend.  The combination of that, warm weather,  and '3A withdrawl,  I decided to tinker on a small project - > knocking some dents out of front fenders.

With hammer and dolly,  got it to basic shape,  but still has a crease.  I was afraid to hammer too much more, and stretch it.   Will it take heat to remove the crease?

[corpsman]

wow!  you've done an excellent job!  congratulations!

[JeepFever]

wow!� you've done an excellent job!� congratulations!

Thanks!   . . . I wonder sometimes why I would start with something so far gone,  but on the other hand, it is satisfying to know I am saving it from the scrap yard.

Something I noticed while fooling with the fenders.  It baffles me how the floors/hat-channels can be so rotten,  but the fender "hat-channel" brackets can be in such good shape.  Even the wood is solid.