The preservation of "Hoover" - my '51 CJ3A

[JeepFever]

Sorry to clog up you rebuild page with a bunch of my photos.� I guess I could have just linked to my build thread.� If you prefer, I can delete them.� Let me know.

Tim

Definately leave them . . that is what these threads are about,  to learn from each other. .  that was a great extract of your full thread.

Randy,  I just skimmed thru your "too rusty" thread,  lots of good stuff there.

It is amazing how much more sense these earlier threads make after we have been attempting the same thing.

Well,  I spent too much time reading ,  and lost some time in the garage.      . .  but I think I am going to head out there now to see if the rusty bolts will cooperate,  (the fenders and cowl).

[1955CJ-5]

to see if the rusty bolts will cooperate

Be gentle...talk nice to them and maybe they will back out for you!

[JeepFever]

Progress update - >� � Hoover now has no fenders or windshield attached.� �This was painless compared to what I was expecting . .� maybe the penetrating oil helped,� because all the bolts came out intact.

The small screws and bolts holding the regulator and wiring harness etc. gave more problems than the big bolts.� I was not talking too nice to them.�

Removing the remaining pieces of hat-channel from the cowl bracket was easier than expected also.� �There was only one weld across the front.

View of front floor with the hat-channel assembly laid in to check for fit.



Mine appears to� have interference at the cowl end,� both driver and passenger sides.� The Classic Enterprises replacements have wider flanges.� � This should be easy to modify,� but I am wondering if others ran into same issue.






Bottom view showing difference between stock and replacement.




Top view showing extra flat plate.� �What purpose does this serve?� �Should I plan on adding one to the hat-channel assembly?



Also this shows where the weld was cut on the old hat channel,� just that line across the front.� �I was dreading removing a bunch of spot welds,� �but there were none !!

[1955CJ-5]

My hat channel set from CE also had a wide flange at the front, and needed to be trimmed.

I'm not sure why there is a plate on top of the hat in that front area under the cowl support...maybe to keep the hat from spreading over time? I added a plate also...figured it was there for a reason.....

[1955CJ-5]

I was just looking at your pictures and I remembered something that I should have done...

Cover your gauges and keep your windshield covered if you are using your 4 1/2" grinder to cut away the old steel...the hot bits of steel can stick to the glass and mess things up...I was able to remove most with a single edged razor blade but it would have been better if i had covered the gauges....

[Kirkski]

Wonderful thread, awesome work THANKS!

[JeepFever]

No photos available right now but will post some later.

I have a couple questions:

1) how much clearance should there be between the top of transfercase and the floor?

2) how thick should the "body spacers" be?� (rubber pieces at the bolt mounting spots,� between hat channels and frame)� I have been using some 1/4" thick ones for mock up.

Reason for the questions - > I having difficulty getting floor level worked out.� �If I line up tranny-tunnel flat back to the riser,� �the floor rests on the transfer case.��

Hard explain with words, but in the reposted photo below,� the floor/hump is setting on the t-case.� If we draw a line from the PTO coverplate, straight to the riser hump,� it lines up perfectly,� but don't want to build like this, obviously.�(floor touching tcase) �



I can figure something out,� but just wondering what it "should" be.

A few options:
 1) increase the height of the "relief in the homemade riser. (thankfully only tack-welded at this point)� � I have checked many times to confirm that it is same dimension as old riser,� so fairly sure that is stock.� (although measuring the old rusty one can be a challenge.)� . . actually just thought of this, - > another reason I think the cutout in riser is correct, is because the rear of toolbox seems line up with the cutout.
 2) use thicker body spacers
 3) put a "bow" in the tranny hump,� front to back.

Sorry for all words,� hope this makes sense.� �I am stalled until I can get this figured out.
 :-/

[JeepFever]

.
NOT MINE !!  I found this on Tumbleweed's thread.

What a great view of a nice original tub,   now if I can just replace all my "air" with "steel" to look something like this.



I thought I would add this to my thread,  (similar to the ones that Randy and Tim posted),   now I can easily refer back to it.

[F Bill]

You might want to research the factory dimension from the seam under the hood hinge to the frame and from the top of the tub in back to the top of the rear crossmember . Set your tub on the frame at a height that matches those dimensions...Take a look at the rear body mounts near the taillights, and also the toeboard gusset to see if it looks as if they have sagged...Judging by the rot in your floor I wouldn't expect either to be at the correct height by now.

I am not near my 3A right now to give you measurements, but perhaps one of the fine gentlemen here with an original  decent jeep could give us some measurements..

[athawk11]

I would agree with Bill.� Based on my measurement, even a little sag will have the floor resting on the TC.�

From the underside of the PTO cover to the top of the TC, I measure 1/2".� The rolled edge of the PTO port hole reduces this measurement to about 3/8".� Most of my tub mounts are between 1/4" to 5/16".� (Old 6 ply tire side wall cut to size).

Whether this is standard, I can't say, but you won't want the floor touching the TC.� I have read that the vibration of the TC can really make some noise when in contact with the tub.� The tub will act like a big reverberating bell.�

Tim

[JeepFever]

Thanks guys . . things are looking better now.

I am not sure I understand how measurements at the ends of the tub come into play, because the riser would basically removing any of the "sag".� �I checked again today,� and my homemade riser has exactly the same dimensions as old riser.

It was reassuring to know that the clearance at the tcase was going to be small.

After measuring the risers,� I made sure the frame was level at all 4 corners (some adjustment was necessary), and made sure I had 1/4" spacers at all mounting locations (and that the body was pulled down to them).

Good news is that now the floor/hump with 1/4" spacer on top of Tcase (blue circle)  seems to line up with the riser!� (red circle)

[JeepFever]

Have not been getting out to garage much this week after work,� �but here are some photos from past weekend.

Starting to test fit the tailgate surround.� Homemade lower piece,� and original side piece.




This shows the tailgate surround partially welded in.� .� I drilled holes in the surround and plug-welded from outside,� not sure if this is standard practice, but once ground and painted nobody will ever know.�



The views above and below show how I am using a laser level to get things in proper locations.� There is a laser �datum plane� running down the center of Jeep.
�
- Measurements can be made side-to-side.� The body width is supposed to be a little over 57�,� tailgate opening is 36� etc.

- the height of the level can be changed to make sure various edges and surfaces are parallel to the ground.� In the example above, a line is visible just below the wheelhouse tops.� (also the tailgate chain brackets are parallel to the ground,� very important,� )

A closer view of the center line on tape measure.




Another view of the tailgate surround, there is more welding to do,� there are still some of the temporary screws in place . . .� view also shows the ratchet strap used for pulling the sides in to proper dimension.



"Before" photo of the driver wheelhouse and the side brace.




Outside view,� with some marking of where to cut� . . fuel opening is removed




The method I used for fitting the replacement metal is to first rough cut the patch, and place behind the side panel




Then cut both panels at same time� . . this creates a patch panel that just fits inside the opening,� not a lot of trial and error fitting.� There is a nice even gap,� for welding.

I elected to keep the original wheelwell curve,� I want to keep the dented uneven �character�,� haha




Tack welded . . still need to cut out the fuel opening.� �My patch material is a little rusty,� should give the primer some �bite�.




The patch for front of wheelhouse, tacked in.� �Also, the support bracket temporarily mounted with screws,� I did not want to weld until I was sure that is proper location




Like I mentioned earlier,� not getting a lot of time during week,� but hopefully get some time this weekend.�

[1955CJ-5]

If I ever tackle another one of these I'm going to get a plasma cutter....that is very cool......

And screws to hold parts in place....what a great idea...!

[squidtone]

JeepFever,
I like your patching style. When done neatly like that it shows pure utility which definitely fits the whole early CJ vibe.
Good luck! Hope you can carve out some time to keep on going.
Dave

[macrisel]

If I ever tackle another one of these I'm going to get a plasma cutter....that is very cool......

And screws to hold parts in place....what a great idea...!

Randy, plasma cutters are ultra cool!  My local NAPA ran a special on them last year and I picked up a small Thermal Dynamics model.  WOW!!  I wish I had it when I was doing body work on my 3A!  Talk about "point and shoot" cutting...  Now I can't wait to start on my '47 Willys truck!