Messages

1

Once You've Joined / Re: I'm 6'3" and I want a jeep!

« on: October 02, 2026, 04:16:43 PM »

In my local Facebook Market place there are 22 flat fender jeeps for sale prices ranging from $1000 to $16,000 in all manner of condition. This is Western Oregon and SW Washington for the most part.

2

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Re: engine swap to a kasier flat head

« on: September 11, 2026, 12:03:43 PM »

A Kaiser Super sonic is a Willys 134L with a high compression head and a larger carburetor. The only physical difference is in the combustion chambers. Oh and it would have come with a Vacuum Advance distributor which if the vacuum can is working is a nice upgrade. If the Vacuum can is shot then its costly to replace one. As to bolting right in as long as the Front engine plate is from a CJ either 2A or if your jeep is a 3A then a 3A plate it will fit.

3

Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / Re: NEW E85 in the market???

« on: April 16, 2026, 01:45:28 PM »

E85 is 85% alcohol and will only run in cars that are FLEX fuel or specially tuned for it.

E15 is 15% alcohol and for the most part should not be used in autos older then 2001 (though some cars older then 2006 should not use it check your owners manual.

4

Engine compartment / Re: Engine block crack

« on: November 16, 2025, 12:25:55 PM »

A copper gasket is less likely to seal something like that then a Fel Pro composite. But a question was the Block decked? it doesn't look like it to me. If you had the Block decked .005 to .007" it would flush up those sleeves. Granted thats a PITA but it would take care of it. As to the leak are you talking about the little chip looking hole? If it were me I would first find out if that reaches the water jacket.

Also you do not put any lube on the stud threads it will screw up your torque numbers clean and dry with a generous coating of Pematex II on the thread that go into the Block and screw the studs in figure tight (should run up to the center section) then allow the sealer to set up for 24hrs. Spray a Fel Pro gasket with copper Indian Head sealer and then Torque to spec. After about 10 hours run time and after the engine reaches room temp after a run retorque.

5

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: CJ3B REAR 9" to 11" upgrade

« on: October 15, 2025, 08:58:11 PM »

The rule with Bendix brakes has always been Tall Man stands to the rear. I have a question were there 11" rear brakes without E-Brakes? All the ones I have seen had E-Brakes. Which of course makes orientation very easy as the cable holes have to obviously go forward.

6

Gearboxes and axles / Re: Original

« on: October 07, 2025, 10:16:16 AM »

If I am getting what your saying no CJ used a gauge layout with 4 smaller gauges above the speedo. They went from 4 surrounding the speedo to a single large cluster with the smaller gauges incorporated into the large round single gauge.

7

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: dana 18 t case removel

« on: August 30, 2025, 12:24:12 AM »

You can get the Shift canes out by removing the Pivot pin the pin does not need to come completely out just slide to the right far enough to allow the canes to slide off.

If you are going to rebuild the TC I strongly recommend Sal's rebuild kit from Vintage Jeeper. And the upgrade to both sealed bearings and the tapered intermediate bearings. It adds to the cost but in the long run it will save money.

8

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: what winch?

« on: August 18, 2025, 06:33:40 PM »

As everything like winches were aftermarket it would depend on what a particular Dealer might have in stock or could source and what the customer ordered.

9

Engine compartment / Re: F-Head Running Strange

« on: July 07, 2025, 12:04:04 PM »

I run 87 oct E-10 in my 134L I run 12° BTDC timing. I see no reason to bother with a higher octane fuel. The engine does not have anywhere near the compression ratio to use it.

10

Engine compartment / Re: Engine block numbers

« on: June 11, 2025, 12:07:22 AM »

806279 is the series of block
W-13 is the mold number
D  no idea
AR no idea
CUCR Nickle Chromium

11

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Re: 3B page shut down

« on: May 02, 2025, 01:03:06 PM »

I was going to comment on this but then I realized its all just to childish to care. Bah Bye

12

Buy, Sell, Trade / Re: US Navy 3B

« on: March 14, 2025, 09:32:13 PM »

WELL lets see

Do you have a valid transferable title?

WHERE?

Is it in one piece or a basket?

Can it be driven for does it need to be trailered?

Condition of the Engine

Condition of the gear boxes
Condition of axles

Are all Datat plates in Place?

Condition of Seats?

Condition of Suspension and Steering?

Condition and type of tires and wheels?

Condition of Gauges and Switches?

Condition of the cooling system?

Condition of the electrical system?

Age of the Battery?

Condition of the fuel tank?

Does it have turn signals and do they work?


And do you have about a dozen photos?

13

Your DJ-3A Project / Re: 1957 DJ3A

« on: December 27, 2024, 01:21:32 AM »

You will find that if the Vacuum can is working the jeep will drive much better with a vacuum advance distributor. Sadly new vacuum cans are either very expensive or near impossible to find. I run an IAT-4405 Vacuum advance dizzy on my 2A.

14

Your DJ-3A Project / Re: 1957 DJ3A

« on: December 04, 2024, 12:50:00 PM »

Did you retain the DJ's Vacuum advance distributor? did you retain the draft tube rather then opt for a PCV system?

I have a 58-59 DJ engine in my 2A

15

BODY and trim / Re: Hood to cowl

« on: April 15, 2024, 03:05:18 PM »

Interesting my repop hood is tight enough on my original cowl that it actually digs into the paint on the sides