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Messages - Mark W.

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Does your engine have a vacuum advance distributor? How about a PCV system. How about a Skid plate on the Oil pan? The wagon and pickup engines had the vacuum advance but then also had a draft tube instead of a PCV system. Of course that could also be all changed.

Did you put the Por-15 on over the bare blasted metal?

Blasted and some areas that were wire brushed I used a Phosphate rust converter on the metal first. Then the POR-15

Another suggestion is to do what they do with Products like POR-15 that basically can't be painted once dried. Before the product is dry spray a primer coat into it. It can even be a good quality rattle can primer. As the product underneath dries it will bond with the primer coat and then your top coat will bond with the primer.

I sandblasted the underside of my 66 Chevelle and then laid down a good coat of POR-15 into the etched metal. Before the POR-15 could setup I sprayed a quality primer using my detail gun. Allowed the whole mess to dry for a few days and then went back with a Lt Gray Ford tractor paint and top coated it.

It looked beautiful since the POR-15 lays out flat even if brushed on the finished paint looked like it had been all prepped and done like the top side of a car would be. Only in this case the coating on the bottom of the car was so hard a nail wouldn't scratch it once it got the POR-15 layer. And VERY chip and rust resistant.

I see no reason why after doing a small test you couldn't do the same thing with your coating.

Did you mess with the orifice in the timing gear squirter? Originally they were .070" and later WILLYS changed them to .040" to help with oil starvation in one of the bearings. Easy to check with a numbered drill bit. If its still a .070 you can easily braze the hole up and redrill it.

But 20psi at above idle is well within acceptable numbers.

I took everyones advise and bought Classic Enterprises parts I bought everything from the Cowl seam to the Cowl seam except the Fender boxes and the floor (I am doing something different for the floor) And the parts appear to be extremely well made But even with Classic there are some WTF's the Gas tank fill hole was scribed on the right side panel!!! and while this is not necessarily Classics fault one of the Rear Side panels showed up with the curve at the top pushed in to far so instead of a 90 degree its more like a 110 degree curve. I am sure this happened in shipping and will only be a few min to fix (hopefully). I have not assembled any of the parts yet that will show just how good they are. I do really wish the Lower cowl sections had come with either the Blind nuts for the fenders or at least the holes punched. Though I guess I may be glad they aren't when it comes to alignment.

At this point besides the original fender boxes (which I maybe replacing the sides on with DIY panels) the Tunnel, Firewall Top Cowl and Dash. I bought with shipping $1100.00 in New Classic Ent. metal and for the parts I am DIYing (the flat front floor the top of the tool box and rear floor) another $225.00 in local sourced steel some luckily from a used place.�

we will see how my plan works out.

The 9.25" clutch was a post 1961 option on CJ5 and CJ6 jeeps with the 134F head like you have, In all the cases I have seen the flywheels were just additionally drilled for the larger clutch. Allowing you to use either. Of course you would need the whole shebang Disc and Pressure Plate and of course you should do the Pilot bearing (in the back of the crank) and Throw out bearing at the same time. As well as having a machine shop dress up the flywheel if you want the longest life out of the new clutch.

By the way I am upgrading to the larger clutch. Luckily I already had the later bellhousing and was able to find a flywheel reasonable.

Thanks guys very frustrated right now waiting on a guy who said he would do the welding I need on my frame.

I been working on my intake manifold which has turned into its own frustration LOL

I have a huge blog like post on the CJ2A page but I thought my 3A  friends might like to see how my Hot Rod Willys engine is coming along.

After much frustration I think I have it put together right. (had trouble with dimples in the tappet bores, Trying to get my crank end play correct, And a half dozen other things including the back of the pulley rubbing on the timing cover "lips"

Anyway after all the frustrations assembling the long block I thought I should do something to get me inspired so I bolted on some of my DIY Bling and made up me wires.

And the timing cover and its new timing marks I put on with my dial indicator and a little file.

I am currently whittling away on a couple pieces of aluminum making the intake manifold. had to redsign it in the middle of making it when I went to order the two 1.25" sch 40 aluminum pipe elbows that will become the runners and found out on the order page the place that makes them has a little $100.00 min order!!! they cost like $16.00 each. SO I had to find a different source and they have a slightly different radius. Which actually worked out well as it helped gain me some room I needed.

I'll show some photo's of that when I get it done. And then its on to the fancy header I am scratch building.

I have the same head on my engine but it has the casting number on it 80376 I think it is off hand. Engine is a 48 based on the serial number I don't have anymore cause the machinist decked my block and never recorded the number. And yes my bad as well.

OH I emailed the seller right away. Waiting to hear back from them. As to getting Clevite bearings that is one of the two choices they told me they sold. And what I expected to receive. I will order from another Supplier (slightly more expensive) after I talk with them on the telephone and confirm they are selling Clevite 77 bearings.

its always something

Has anyone on the forum used Omix-ADA main and or Rod Bearings in their engine rebuild? If so any comments on them and I would like to know how many miles you have on those bearings?

I am not interested in reading warnings from anyone who hasn't used them. I have read pages of warnings in the last couple days. What I haven't seen is one person who has used them commenting on any problems they have had with them.

Through no fault of my own I find myself with a set of Main and Rod bearings for my engine. I was specifically told by the seller their bearings came from either Clevite or Federal Mogal. The package that arrived contained Omix-ADA MADE IN CHINA bearings.

So I would like to hear some actual personal experience with these bearings.

Mark W.

WOW not going anywhere near that crap. I want water and antifreeze in my cooling system If I am out some where and bust a hose spring a leak or what ever I want to be able to scoop up water from a creek or the water fountain at a park and refill my radiator. I don't want to call a tow truck to drag me home so I can wait a week for some of this crap to show up in the mail.

We once went deer hunting in a ver y low slung 65 Dodge Polara and hit a rock with the oil pan. Lost all the oil in a few miles. I had a couple quarts with me that got us to the Hwy. A nice guy stopped to see if he could help and gave use another qt he had. I even found something that looked a little bit like motor oil in a can in an old shed with briars growing over it to dump in the old beast. That got us to a tiny little town with the nicest gas station owner who put my Polara on his rack drained the werid crap left in it and then worked with brake clean to clean the crack as best he could. He then used some gas tank repair epoxy to fill in the crack. And when he was done and it had set up he filled the crankcase with oil from his drippings barrel and filled up a couple antifreeze jugs with more of the Bulk oil and then he looked at me and the wife and said I bet you ain't got no money have you. I think we had 5 bucks. He told us to get home and be careful. When I got home I sent him a check for 40 bucks and for the next ten years until one of them came back returned the wife sent him a Christmas card.

Now if I had had some magic fancy oil that couldn't be mixed with anything. We would have been screwed.

there are mechanical gear boxes that can change your speedo

Here is a discussion of one

here are a bunch on eBay

here is someone selling them and explaining how to figure out what you need

That should give you a starting point.

Actually silicone and gasoline are a serious bad combo. Gasoline can cause Silicone sealants to balloon up to many many times their original size and then pieces fall off plugging fuel lines and carbs up.

I once as a kid made the mistake of siliconing the sending unit into the tank on a 52 Chevy 3100 custom cab pickup and about a mile and a half from my girl friends house had to get under the thing and with a wire dig silicone out of the petcock valve in the bottom of the tank. The results were I smelled like gasoline had chemical burns on my right arm and the big date we were going to be going on ended up with her mom a nurse. Washing my arm and applying some kind of ointment to it. Needless to say I haven't let Silicone sealers get anywhere near gasoline since.

I took another 4 attempts to get all that orange crap out of the tank.

I'll have to look but the brackets from my dads K Line top might still be on the body. If they are your welcome to them for the shipping. I'll PM you tomorrow with what I find.

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