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Messages - Mark W.

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Just do a google search for Vintage look car Battery

Retorque the head after a couple 3 hours of operation but make sure you do it after the engine returns to room temp. If you do it hot the studs will be elongated and when they cool will contract increasing the torque possibly well past recommended.

Non-Jeep Projects / Re: If the Jeeps Dissapeared
« on: March 20, 2020, 10:10:57 PM »
I'm going to be different as my love of my Jeep is not a love of jeeps in general or anything to do with offroading etc. Its only the love of this one jeep that has been a big part of my life for the last 57 years since I was 5. So if Chug A Lug some how did not exist then it would be next on the list a 66 or 67 Chevelle Malibu set up as a late 70's early 80's street racer.

I also use a Stat 800 but with dual element bulbs I have a AC Delco headlight switch that can either shut the park lights off when the headlights come on or have them stay on. I see no time my park lights would need to be on at the same time as I use the turn signals. So I can have both park and turn using separate circuits allowing me to use my dual element bulbs

Hella also makes an excellent H4 headlight conversion for 7" bulbs. No cutting fit my 2A buckets just fine they aren't even expensive.

Hella also makes an excellent H4 headlight conversion for 7" bulbs.

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Re: Body lift
« on: January 31, 2020, 02:44:51 AM »
If you have through the floor pedals you will be hacking up your floor. Also your throttle linkage will change. Your radiator fan shroud might not fit your front fender braces won't match the mounting holes.

BODY and trim / Re: seat conundrum
« on: January 28, 2020, 12:20:57 AM »
I have 2" foam pads on the backs and 3" bottoms. I'm 5' 11" and 260lbs I do have a 15" wheel using a Ididit column that is very much like the original but with a Grant steering wheel hub at the top.

BODY and trim / Re: Hard Top vs Soft Top
« on: January 28, 2020, 12:05:21 AM »
CHUG had a Kayline soft top when I drove it in high school we kept the windows clear with Johnsons Paste Wax. I didnt like the flapping at hwy speeds. I plan to build a insulated aluminum hard top.

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: F-Head Clifford Headers potential
« on: January 23, 2020, 05:38:35 PM »
I have a warm air intake set up for my carb does the same thing as the Heat riser but faster. Picks up heat from the #2 and #3 primary tubes

And a fresh air intake that gets its pressurized air from in front of the radiator just under the hood.

Both controllable from the dash

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: F-Head Clifford Headers potential
« on: January 23, 2020, 03:00:43 PM »
The Clifford Header has been around for decades which is good since that is how long it usually takes for them to deliver anything. That said. The 4 into 1 design of the Clifford Header is designed to be most advantageous at high rpm so in a 134L or F powered rig your looking at just about redline (4000rpm) before you get what the Header has to offer. It will reduce exhaust back pressure and will increase HP if combined with a free flow exhaust system (like a 2"-2.25" tubing and Turbo style muffler)

If your after real performance improvement then you need to look to a TRI Y designed header in our case this would mean Primary tubes from Cyl 1 and 4 would join together in a Y about 36" from the Block then cyl. 2 and 3 would do the same. Your looking at a 1.5" OD tubing with a 1.375 ID for the Primarys. Then the two Y's would transition to a Pair of 1.75" OD Secondary tubes About 18" long where they then transition via a 3rd Y to a 2.25" Tail pipe and a straight through muffler.

The TRI Y design header improves bottom end to mid range Torque and HP its not as advantageous at higher RPMs as a 4 into 1 but then our engines never get there so that is a moot point.

To the best of my knowledge and after searching the internet for a couple of years I am the only one to produce a true TRI Y header. I did this for my current build. I discussed this header with real race car and custom header builders for some time before I started.

The best photos I have of it are here:

The header will eventually be ceramic coated. And before you or anyone else asks there is no program for bending the tubes this was made by cutting premade curves and MIG welding them together then grinding the weld smooth. I will not be making any to sell. At some point I will be offering Flanges for other people to do what they want with but not until my projects are done. I do not know what performance improvement this will produce other then theoretical since the engine hasn't even been started yet. And even then I have no beach mark to judge the header as the engine has MANY performance improvements.

I know a couple of the guy who were patient enough to get a Clifford Header and install it on their 134 both were quite happy. I had a 6 into 1 design Clifford on a 200L6 in a 67 Mustang and it added to the overall performance package nicely.

Again I am not going to be making any headers to sell this one about killed me with the amount of time and work involved. But I thought I should give you my thoughts on your idea.

Well I gave him almost exactly the same answer on Facebook. So hopefully he will follow through.

Yes clean the tag everything else is a guess

Warn OD did not come to market until 1962.

Electrical Systems / Re: 12v setup for cheap?
« on: September 22, 2019, 04:25:11 PM »
Keep in mind no alternator will come with the proper sized pulley for the wider belts. Speedway motors sells pulleys designed for alternators mounted on Ford flat head that are cheap and work well.

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