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Messages - Mark W.

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Your CJ-3B Project / Re: F-Head Clifford Headers potential
« on: Yesterday at 05:38:35 PM »
I have a warm air intake set up for my carb does the same thing as the Heat riser but faster. Picks up heat from the #2 and #3 primary tubes

And a fresh air intake that gets its pressurized air from in front of the radiator just under the hood.

Both controllable from the dash

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: F-Head Clifford Headers potential
« on: Yesterday at 03:00:43 PM »
The Clifford Header has been around for decades which is good since that is how long it usually takes for them to deliver anything. That said. The 4 into 1 design of the Clifford Header is designed to be most advantageous at high rpm so in a 134L or F powered rig your looking at just about redline (4000rpm) before you get what the Header has to offer. It will reduce exhaust back pressure and will increase HP if combined with a free flow exhaust system (like a 2"-2.25" tubing and Turbo style muffler)

If your after real performance improvement then you need to look to a TRI Y designed header in our case this would mean Primary tubes from Cyl 1 and 4 would join together in a Y about 36" from the Block then cyl. 2 and 3 would do the same. Your looking at a 1.5" OD tubing with a 1.375 ID for the Primarys. Then the two Y's would transition to a Pair of 1.75" OD Secondary tubes About 18" long where they then transition via a 3rd Y to a 2.25" Tail pipe and a straight through muffler.

The TRI Y design header improves bottom end to mid range Torque and HP its not as advantageous at higher RPMs as a 4 into 1 but then our engines never get there so that is a moot point.

To the best of my knowledge and after searching the internet for a couple of years I am the only one to produce a true TRI Y header. I did this for my current build. I discussed this header with real race car and custom header builders for some time before I started.

The best photos I have of it are here:

The header will eventually be ceramic coated. And before you or anyone else asks there is no program for bending the tubes this was made by cutting premade curves and MIG welding them together then grinding the weld smooth. I will not be making any to sell. At some point I will be offering Flanges for other people to do what they want with but not until my projects are done. I do not know what performance improvement this will produce other then theoretical since the engine hasn't even been started yet. And even then I have no beach mark to judge the header as the engine has MANY performance improvements.

I know a couple of the guy who were patient enough to get a Clifford Header and install it on their 134 both were quite happy. I had a 6 into 1 design Clifford on a 200L6 in a 67 Mustang and it added to the overall performance package nicely.

Again I am not going to be making any headers to sell this one about killed me with the amount of time and work involved. But I thought I should give you my thoughts on your idea.

Well I gave him almost exactly the same answer on Facebook. So hopefully he will follow through.

Yes clean the tag everything else is a guess

Warn OD did not come to market until 1962.

Electrical Systems / Re: 12v setup for cheap?
« on: September 22, 2019, 04:25:11 PM »
Keep in mind no alternator will come with the proper sized pulley for the wider belts. Speedway motors sells pulleys designed for alternators mounted on Ford flat head that are cheap and work well.

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: brake fluids?
« on: September 15, 2019, 05:03:16 PM »
You should only use DOT 5 fuild if everything in your brake system is virgin. MC all lines and fittings all hoses and wheel cylinders.

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Front end alignment
« on: September 15, 2019, 04:59:37 PM »
Has anyone had a 4 wheel alignment done. It would seam that if the suspension was taken completely apart it would be good to make sure the rear axle is in line with the frame and front axle?

It was all stick welding well what wasn't spot welded anyway.

WOW I sure wouldn't want the HP robbing power steeringm (not to mention the quick rate of a power box) in a 4 banger powered Willys.

I went with a Saginaw 525 6.25 turn manual box and the same type tie rod assembly you show.

Does your engine have a vacuum advance distributor? How about a PCV system. How about a Skid plate on the Oil pan? The wagon and pickup engines had the vacuum advance but then also had a draft tube instead of a PCV system. Of course that could also be all changed.

Did you put the Por-15 on over the bare blasted metal?

Blasted and some areas that were wire brushed I used a Phosphate rust converter on the metal first. Then the POR-15

Another suggestion is to do what they do with Products like POR-15 that basically can't be painted once dried. Before the product is dry spray a primer coat into it. It can even be a good quality rattle can primer. As the product underneath dries it will bond with the primer coat and then your top coat will bond with the primer.

I sandblasted the underside of my 66 Chevelle and then laid down a good coat of POR-15 into the etched metal. Before the POR-15 could setup I sprayed a quality primer using my detail gun. Allowed the whole mess to dry for a few days and then went back with a Lt Gray Ford tractor paint and top coated it.

It looked beautiful since the POR-15 lays out flat even if brushed on the finished paint looked like it had been all prepped and done like the top side of a car would be. Only in this case the coating on the bottom of the car was so hard a nail wouldn't scratch it once it got the POR-15 layer. And VERY chip and rust resistant.

I see no reason why after doing a small test you couldn't do the same thing with your coating.

Did you mess with the orifice in the timing gear squirter? Originally they were .070" and later WILLYS changed them to .040" to help with oil starvation in one of the bearings. Easy to check with a numbered drill bit. If its still a .070 you can easily braze the hole up and redrill it.

But 20psi at above idle is well within acceptable numbers.

I took everyones advise and bought Classic Enterprises parts I bought everything from the Cowl seam to the Cowl seam except the Fender boxes and the floor (I am doing something different for the floor) And the parts appear to be extremely well made But even with Classic there are some WTF's the Gas tank fill hole was scribed on the right side panel!!! and while this is not necessarily Classics fault one of the Rear Side panels showed up with the curve at the top pushed in to far so instead of a 90 degree its more like a 110 degree curve. I am sure this happened in shipping and will only be a few min to fix (hopefully). I have not assembled any of the parts yet that will show just how good they are. I do really wish the Lower cowl sections had come with either the Blind nuts for the fenders or at least the holes punched. Though I guess I may be glad they aren't when it comes to alignment.

At this point besides the original fender boxes (which I maybe replacing the sides on with DIY panels) the Tunnel, Firewall Top Cowl and Dash. I bought with shipping $1100.00 in New Classic Ent. metal and for the parts I am DIYing (the flat front floor the top of the tool box and rear floor) another $225.00 in local sourced steel some luckily from a used place.�

we will see how my plan works out.

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