Kingpin Bearing Help

[LKap]

I am not sure what I did wrong!  I just tried to set the preload with my new kingpin bearings.  Everything seamed to go together just fine and after I bolted and torqued the caps down the preload seemed to be good at about 14 lbs.  I unbolted everything so I could put the seals on and when I took a look at the bearings they were damaged.  It looks like I didnt have them set perfectly before I tightened everything up.  Has anyone ever had this happen before??  Bearings were brand new from Walcks. Regardless it looks like I'm ordering new bearings 

[specialty]

It looks like they were not seated right. Been awhile since I have been in there so one of these guys will know for sure. Sometimes it takes a little time for a reply so hang in there. I think I got my bearings, I think they were national bearings, at Advance auto and used a promo code on them. Might save you a few bucks.

[LKap]

Thanks for the reply. That's what I'm thinking - not seated right. I hope someone can chime in on how to tighten the kingpin caps down the right way so this doesn't happen again!

[specialty]

If I recall they just slip in by hand. Did you tap or hammer them in?

[1955CJ-5]

My only thought is maybe the outer race/cup is not fully seated, and so the bearing is sitting a little too high when you tighten the caps...

This is a picture of one that came out of my CJ-5.....but it had been in there for 50 or 60 years...

Do you have pictures of the knuckle?

[athawk11]

The type of damage to the new bearing is a bit of a head scratcher.

There are old style knuckles and a newer style knuckle.  The old style requires shims on both the top and bottom king pins.  The newer style only requires shims on the upper king pin.  There is a post here somewhere that shows the differences quite nicely.  I can't find it right now.

Can you post a photo of the lower king pin area on your knuckles?

[LKap]

I'm pretty sure I have the old style. I researched this extensively before I started so I wouldn't screw up  . There were shims on both the top and bottom when I took it apart. I used the same shims as a starting point when I reassembled.  Could it be that I don't have enough shims. Attached are pics of the raced - pretty sure they are all the way seated. I will post a pic of the knuckles when I get home.

[LKap]

Hawk - here are the picks of the bottom of the knuckle

[athawk11]

You're right. That is the older style.  Load it up with extra shims. Tighten each kingpin nut a little at a time until you reach the recommended torque.  Test, then remove shims,  tighten, test remove etc...until you reach the recommended foot pounds.

[LKap]

I read over on the 2a page that the kingpins are torqued down to 55-65 foot pounds.  Seems a bit high? Is this correct?

[1955CJ-5]

That does seem high....the head bolts are only torqued to 60-70 ft lbs..

They are 5/16 aren't they?

There is a table here for standard bolt torque values...lots of others on the net too...

http://www.engineersedge.com/torque_table_sae_ftlbs.htm

[LKap]

I was referencing this page - seems legit

http://www.cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html

[1955CJ-5]

Well, you can try it.

Some of the early jeeps had a one piece steering arm/king pin cap, which is what they might be referring to....

[Oilleaker1]

You hit it with the cap bolts. There are two that are longer than the others. The long ones hold the guard on top. Easy mistake to make. Oilly

[LKap]

How would the bolts hit the bearing? I checked and there are a couple that are a little longer.  Do I need to test the preload with the guard?