CJ3A Body kit

[CJPilot]

I took some measurements of the holes in the tub floor, and drew up my findings.
These are the steering column, gas pedal, dimmer switch and pedal shaft holes. Anybody know of a definitive drawing showing these details?



This is my first pass at this and will most likely be updated once I look at everything again.
My steering column hole is already in and will help locate the other holes.

Once I finalize a design I can attempt to cut the holes. �For the pedal shaft holes I think I�ll lay it out, * punch the centers and use a hole saw to start with.
I�ll need to saw two overlapping holes to get the oval shape. I�ll saw most of the way through and move 5/16� �off center and saw that hole which will remove
my center �for the other half so I�ll have to finish it with a carbide bur. The other holes I�ll use a speed bit.



Steve

[CJPilot]

I needed confirmation that my layout was correct. So I printed a section full scale and cut the holes out with scissors. �Next I tried fitting it up with the holes in my original tub



Close enough for me. �Now I can try fitting it up in the repo tub.


Steve

[CJPilot]

 My plan worked. I�m glad to have this behind me.







Steve

[macrisel]

Been there, done that!  Make sure you test fit all your gauges, ignition switch, dimmer switch and everything else that gets a hole.  My repro tub holes were all a little bit too small for everything and I had to massage them out with a die grinder a little.  You may also find that the original fenders fit better than the repro fenders and vice versa.  And the windshield.........and the tailgate.......and the grille.

Like everyone else said, put the whole thing together first to fit everything together.  Don't be suprised by anything......quality control in the Phillipenes is a suggestion at best.

I have already assembled my reproduction body kit, disassembled it and am now getting close to paint.  Don't even get me started on how "straight" the repro body is!

[CJPilot]

Mark- �Nice to hear you were able to make it all work for you. �At times I�ve had my doubts that I�ll get it to fit. I've had the tub on and off at least 10 times so far.

Now that you are in the paint stage I consider you one of those knowledgeable Jeep guys here on the 3A page. �I have a fit up question. Did you have to move the hat channel (floor support) that needs a hole drilled in it at the driver side floor position? This would be the one that runs up by the master cylinder. �Mine is off by about 3/8� or so. I�m trying to make up my mind. �Do I hog out the hole or move the hat channel? �The purist in me wants to move the hat channel and the Bubba in me wants to hog the hole out.



Steve

[macrisel]

I did not have to move my hat channel as mine matched up very close.  I also bought a Repli Tub from Willys Overland where they drill the mounting holes for you and "fix" the transmission hole.  However, I think that the tolerances at the Omix factory must be +/- 2 inches on most of their blueprints....

To your original question, I would enlarge the mounting hole on the frame before I moved the hat channel.  Before i did that, i would mount the grille and fenders and see how much "play" you have with everything bolted together.  You may have enough to get everything to fit.

Again, quality control is not that great in addition to several different versions of tubs being out there.  The Omix factory does not always use all there old inventory up when they make a change to their design so you may end up with a 2012 tub and a 2009 fender trying to get them to fit together. :-?

[Bob W]

Do I hog out the hole or move the hat channel? �The purist in me wants to move the hat channel and the Bubba in me wants to hog the hole out.

I think Calvin moved the body mount on the frame when he ran into this problem.

[CJPilot]

Thanks Mark,   So another vote to hog out the hole.  That�s what my brother (helper) thought. I can put this decision off until I take the tub off to weld the emergency cable bracket on. In reality I'd only be opening it up about a 1/4"

I have my fenders and grill on.  So I think my tub is mounted ok. The passenger side fender looks off to me. That�s my next project.  

It�s hard for me to figure their quality out.  I think if you are going to go through all the trouble to make the thing why not just make it right. Or at least close.


Steve

[calvinhunt]

Steve,
 ï¿½Bob W is right in his post above, I moved the body mount (outrigger) on the frame (a couple of places on both left and right sides). �However, mine were off by a little more than an inch. �Had they only needed to be opened up 1/4 inch I'm sure I would have done just that. �

 ï¿½In the photo below you can see how far I moved outrigger mount. �You can see that I pilot-drilled just a bit too far into the rivet originally retaining the mount to the frame. Then I drilled the two rivet heads just enough to remove mount. �Any deeper and I may have drilled into the holes of the outrigger possibly elongating them. With the outrigger removed I ground the rest of the rivet shanks flush with the frame (or meant to). �With the outrigger mount clamped to the frame aligned just where I wanted it I match-drilled the hat channel through the outrigger, bolted it to the tub, and then match-drilled the two holes in the frame through the outrigger and mounted it with two AN aircraft bolts. �

 ï¿½Another location with similar solution.

[CJPilot]

Calvin thanks for the advice and the picture.  As I was reading your post and came across �match-drilled�,  I thought airframe?  Then you mentioned AN hardware so now I�m thinking you know your way around AC43-13.

Steve

[CJPilot]

My next issue to fix is the passenger side fender. �It�s primer doesn�t look like the tub or drivers side fender. I'm not sure what that means if anything. � It sits low in the back where it bolts to the tub.

Passenger Side





Drivers side



Steve

[James P]

I know this is a little late on the subject but that second tank is off an M38a1, seen in the jeep a little while ago. (just noticed it)

[athawk11]

Steve,
Do you have the body mount rubber in position? �If so, you may want to try a thinner mount at the tub to help align it with the fender. �I've read that the original thickness of the mounts varied on these depending on the mount position. �I started with 4 ply tire sidewalls cut to size. �All were about the same thickness, but I did have to adjust the thickness up or down, here or there, to get everything to line up. �It wasn't very scientific. �

If the rubber is not in position yet, and you're already this far off, you will likely have to enlarge the mounting holes on the fender support, and maybe at the three mounting holes... fender to tub...to move the fender up.

Tim

[macrisel]

To second Tim, I had to custom fit each of my rubber mounts to get my tub to sit level on the frame and line up with the fenders.  On one, I had to trim off about 1/2" to thin it out...

[Gunslinger]

I Found a pretty reasonable body mount. I bought a 10 inch long straight roller for a boat trailer. �It comes with the 1/2 inch diameter hole in the center and you can cut it to any thickness on a band saw lor hack saw. This way you can easily adjust body height and its cheap, about 8 bucks I think.