Hood

[Macgraham]

Yesterday I groung off over a quarter inch of bondo from my hood. Much of it was cracking out anyway cause the hood wasn't clean when it was done. Looks like it was used as a backstop at a shooting range! Thought I might be able to dolly it out. Someone welded up the seam without trying to keep it relatively cool so it distorted alot. I won't throw it away but I have about decided to replace it.

Has anyone bought a hood from Classic Enterprises? It is the only one made in the USA as far as I can find out. Made from 16 guage instead of 18. Would appreciate any feedback Thanks, Mac

[calvinhunt]

 ï¿½ � There was a similar "hood thread" some time ago. �May have been on the old forum. �It was since I restored my Jeep over 4 years ago. �A question was asked about the quality of new reproduction hoods purchased through Omix Ada.
      My original hood was so badly distorted I knew it was beyond my ability to restore it to the level I was wanting so I looked for a good used hood. �I found one in Denver. The guy told my on the phone that it was nearly perfect. �He had sold several good hoods and he explained to me that this was one of the best one he had seen, that it would take just a little sanding and it'd be ready for paint. �I paid him $100 plus $118 in shipping. �When I got it, it was nearly as bad as mine. �I kept looking. �Found another one in the East. �Again, was told how good it was. �Same price, similar shipping costs. �Again, I was very disappointed and this one was terribly rusted with pits. �I ordered a new one through Northwest Military Vehicles. �They, like all other Jeep suppliers, order their new body parts through Omix Ada, which originate with MD Juan in the Philippines. �
 ï¿½ � At first, I thought it was great. �But then when I started preparing it for paint I could see that in the radius of the curve above the embossed WILLYS there was an indentation. �I'm sure it's from poor tooling allowing the material to be drawn into the embossing. �Nevertheless, I called Omix Ada, (its a bit hard to get their number but I had gotten in from a damaged drop-shipment from them sometime earlier). �I told them of my disappointment in the hood I'd received. �I asked them how many they had in stock. �They said about 18. �I told them I would purchase another outright with no exchange or return if they would go to the trouble to check each one with a straight edge in the radius of the curve above the WILLYS and then sell me the best one. �They did, they said that each one had the similar 1/4 inch or more indentation. �I talked to a body and fender man locally. �He said there would be no way to stretch the metal out to the perfect radius. �He suggested a good quality bondo with proper application techniques. �It was a challenge, but it came out looking good and it's still holding. �Now, with that said--on the post some time ago, at least two other 3A Page members responded at that time that they had new Omix Ada / MD Juan hoods that were acceptable without bondo. �
 ï¿½ � I later sold my other two hoods for what I paid for them and the recipients were very pleased with them. �
 ï¿½ � Don't tell anyone, but the problem must be with me.
 ï¿½ � If there is a US manufacturer that makes quality hoods,(Classic Enterprises) I would probably still be in the market. �I have paint left over and would be willing to pay for quality. �There is a place in the Northeast called Panels Plus that was selling many properly-made body parts, but not hoods, grills, and windshields. �I wonder if they do now. �Haven't heard of them for some time.
 ï¿½ � For what it's worth....

[Carls_jeep]

I guess all reproduction body work is not up to specs. It's a shame since it's just as easy to make stamping dies to match original dimensions as it is to make them wrong.

[CJPilot]

The hood that came with my body kit is stamp Willys. I�m not a body man by any stretch of the imagination, but I�ve done lots of it. �I just ran out and checked my hood near the stamping and it looks and feels good to me. The rest of the hood fits my fenders and grill with consistent body lines. �

Steve

[calvinhunt]

Steve, as I said, there were at least two other 3A Page members that said their repro hoods were straight.  I must have gotten one from a bad lot (that's my luck.)

I didn't see the indentation until I prepared my hood for paint.  When I sprayed on the primer/sealer, while it was still wet and glossy, I could see the indentation. I knew it would look that way with a gloss finish and I knew I couldn't accept that. So I got out a long straight edge and checked it. Now, with 1/4 inch of bondo in place my hood looks just like an original hood with no space in between a straight edge and my hood.  Now that is 1/4 inch in the very center and tapers to nothing from there.  I just didn't want my new glossy hood to look like someone had sat on it.

I purchased my repro hood over 4 years ago.  Surely they have improved their manufacturing technique by now.  It's probably time for me to buy one and have it on hand for when the bondo pops out of my current hood.

[dadsjeep]

     'PANELS PLUS' in Green, Maine changed its name to 'GREENS PANEL WORKS' and almost exclusively downsized to making GPW panels.  Just this December, Stephen, grandson of the company originator, said he was going out of business.  He did have stock left that would be sold first come-first serve.  He was also selling all of his shop equipment and machinery.  His number is 207-515-3784.  Sorry to see him go.  He did good work!  Terry in Maine

[BMIC]

Good post Terry, 30 miles from me and I did not know he even existed. I called Steve this morning and he said that he did not have any hoods left in stock only some assorted M38A1 panels left. Too bad, an american company in business since 1937 who's nitche was strictly M38 body panels closing down. I wonder how many more are out there?

[macrisel]

Yesterday I groung off over a quarter inch of bondo from my hood. Much of it was cracking out anyway cause the hood wasn't clean when it was done. Looks like it was used as a backstop at a shooting range! Thought I might be able to dolly it out. Someone welded up the seam without trying to keep it relatively cool so it distorted alot. I won't throw it away but I have about decided to replace it.

Hoods are something that will probably always be an issue on these Jeeps. �I would be very hesitant about putting any bondo on the top of the hood due to being exposed to heat and vibration all the time. �I think it will always be prone to cracking.....even if the metal is properly prepped. �Out towards the radius where the stamping is might be okay if you go easy on the amount.

The issue seems to be the lack of support under the hood. �There is a lot of square feet in the middle without any support such as braces, ribbs, etc. �Depending on how original you want to keep it, there have been several old posts on different ways to brace the hood. �While it will probably never be strong enough to sit on without oil canning, I would think it would help. �I debated a long time on mine, but decided to keep it looking factory without any additional braces. �I'll probably regret that in 5 years...

[Carls_jeep]

I just drive and repair my Jeep as needed. To me it's just a tool to enjoy driving when and where I want. dents, dings and scratches don't bother me and the Jeep don't seem to care either.

[Macgraham]

Went to see a guy here in LHC today. Many of the custom car guys recommended him. He told me to finish removing the bondo and in about a month he would do some shrinking on the hood and tighten it up. He does not recommend additional braceing. He said it would not be expensive but there will be a price up front. Went to price a body hammer and one dolly yesterday and they were over 180.00. Just want to get it straight once and then it can age normally from there.

[F Bill]

Went to price a body hammer and one dolly yesterday and they were over 180.00. Just want to get it straight once and then it can age normally from there.

Where are you shopping for your body tools?? Try Dagger tools..they have really nice stuff reasonable. ..Even the HF stuff is halfway useable today.Unfortunately all they stock anymore locally is the door skin replacement set.  Sounds like you talked to the Snap On guy. (I picked up a nice new  Snap On dolly at the Pawn shop today for $30)

I would suggest letting the pro do your hood, learn on something easier.

[Rommel_Juan]

Hi I'm Rommel Juan from MDJuan.

Here is an MDJuan repro hood installed on an original CJ2a tub.



 i can give you more info if you like. Just let me know what you need

Cheers
Rommel

[athawk11]

Rommel,
Welcome to the 3A page. �The above conversation started off by talking about a 'pucker', or small indentation in the sheet metal just above the 'Willys' stamping. �It seems that when the 'Willys' was stamped, it would distort the hood. �

I am happy to say, I have an MD Juan hood that was purchased about 2 years ago and it has no such 'pucker' above the Willys stamp. �It is smooth all the way through the radius, including the area just above the 'Willys'.

Generally, I am very pleased with the hood. �If I could offer one minor issue, it would be the radius/contour at the hood support. �What you are seeing here is a 1949 3A with the original cowl and the MD Juan hood. �The contour at the back of the hood does not match the cowl as well as I would hope. �I am not the only one that has this issue.

I think that if I bent the hood support channel, just a small amount, just outside the hinge position, this hood would fit perfectly.

Again, I welcome you to this forum. �I appreciate your desire to offer the best reproductions possible. �By the way, I am in the market for a 3A tub. �Any possibility of a discount??

Tim

[Macgraham]

What would be considered a good price for a MDJUAN hood. Saw 3 on ebay 2 identical nostamp hoods one was 343.19 the other 542.00. the willys stamped hood was 327.22. They were all omix distributed and probably came from mdjuan. I don't understand the priceing. Why would the stamped hood be cheaper? Maybe old stock with possible fit issues?  Walcks script 457.97.  KW script 399.00.  Ron G503  275.00. Would they all be mdjuan? Pretty easy to make a choice here.

[F Bill]

Speaking of hoods, Have you seen the heavy duty hood that Classic is selling now? It isn't cheap but it sure looks strong.