I purchased this '51 a few weeks ago as a project for my sons and I to work on and learn together. We are going to do a frame off resto-mod to it. The modifications won't be anything crazy, basically 12v conversion, ~2" lift with new springs, bigger A/T tires and newer wheels. Other minor things will be updated gauges and wiring. So, while it won't be a bone stock replica, it won't be totally modified.



The PO replaced the L head motor with an F head. I'm thinking I would like to go back to the Go Devil but I haven't been able to source one. I can't stand the look of the carb/air filter sticking through the hood. The f head initially ran but then it died. Upon trying to restart it, it would backfire and not even really try to start. My plan is to get it running well enough to be able to drive it around for a bit so I can see how well everything else works then begin taking it apart systematically down to the frame followed by rebuild/renew and reinstall.

The PO also did a shoddy job of trying to convert it to 12v. I've removed the old Motorola alternator and external voltage regulator and fabricated a bracket to support a new Delco 10si alternator. New wiring for that side of the electrical will be installed soon. I received a new pointless distributor for Kaiser-Willys. I'm also going to install an MSD Street Fire ignition control box with a new coil and spark plug wires. All that stuff can easily be used on the L head motor when the frame and motor are done. I've ordered a new wiring kit from Rebel Wire to replace the rats nest of wire that's in there now. So many poorly done splices!


It came with not one but two electronic fuel pumps installed. I'm not sure why the PO bypassed the mechanical pump. As far as I can tell, it functions fine.

It has had a newer fuel tank installed at some point but the rubber fuel line was very brittle. I have ran new rubber fuel line for now. Obviously when I get to that part of putting things back on the frame, I will use quality stainless steel tubing.


The body appears to be mostly straight and cancer free, but, it's been repainted and I can tell there are spots with body filler on there in excessive amounts. The underbody supports are rusted out. There are number of holes and patches that will need to be filled by welding in metal properly. It also looks like the PO made a make shift body lift. So, it'll be removed from the frame, frame powder coated, and then the body repaired and repainted and then placed back down properly on new body mounts.

The PO also installed front disc brakes. I haven't had a chance to look at what brand they are or how well they function. That will come after I can actually get a running motor for it. Whichever motor I decide to go with, I will rebuild that too. The tranny and transfer case along with the differentials will be rebuilt.

We're excited to do this project. We want a nice little fair weather daily driver and one that we can go play around the hills of Idaho in.

Sure turned cold out here in Idaho! Still been able to work on my CJ. It didn't run when I picked it up. So, I ordered a rebuild kit for the carb and rebuilt that. I ripped out the rats nest that made up the wiring. I ditched the old Motorola alternator and the make shift mounting set up for it. I fabricated a new bracket modeled after the one from Willys Works. Looks similar to this one:


I then mounted a new Delco 10si alternator. I ran all new wiring for it. I wired in an alternator warning light and an MSD StreetFire ignition control box and new coil. I made and ran new StreetFire spark plug wires.


I also ordered and received a new wiring kit from Rebel Wire in TN. It's nice stuff! But, I'll wait until the frame and body are redone before I start installing it. At least I have it here and ready when I'm ready. Very impressed with their wire!

I also bought a new electronic distributor from KaiserWillys. That turned out to be A LOT of work for nothing. Here's why:


The static timing was off. So, to remove the oil pump, I had to remove the fender so I could then remove the brake lines and splitter block (or whatever that's called) so I could get the oil pump off. We got it off and lined back up the best we could tell. Unfortunately, there weren't any timing marks on the front engine cover or the lower pulley. My buddy helped me try to find TDC of piston #1 by feeling the air pushed out of the spark plug hole. So we finally got the slot in the oil pump for the distributor shaft key to line up at approx 11 o'clock position. When I installed the new electronic distributor I realized that the rotor wasn't pointing to 5 o'clock like all the books say it should be. And then it dawned on me that it doesn't matter where the rotor points to, just know that when the number one cylinder is TDC then the rotor is pointing to that spot on the distributor cap. Well, that was good and all except after trying to start it, the MSD box was telling me that it wasn't getting any trigger input from the new distributor. I installed the old points style distributor and it started right up. Granted, it still runs a bit rough because I have no timing marks to time it to. I shined the timing light and there isn't single mark anywhere. Anyway, looks like that electronic distributor is going back to KW. I noticed it's made by Omix Ada. That was my first ever experience with em... seems kinda cheaply made 😕

I'm sure some may be thinking, "Why all the trouble for a motor that you're not even gonna keep?" (remember I wanna go back to an L head if I can ever find one) Well, all this stuff will transfer right over to the L head. Plus I wanted to practice on this motor before I got the one I really want in there. Finally, I wanted to get it running so I can test drive it to try out the tranny and stuff before I start tearing it down to the frame. Oh yeah, I also wanted to make sure the motor ran before I tried trading or selling it.

So, now it runs. Gotta get the brake lines back together and the fender on so I can go do some donuts in the snow 😃 Soon we'll start dismantling and cataloging the whole thing. Fun times ahead!

Hey Brett,

Thanks for the reply. I have read through your build, loved it! Excellent work my man.

I have debated about using that Holley carb. Not sure what to do. I love the looks of the flatty L head... Wish I could have found a Jeep with one in it already.

-Alex

I'm CJ naive. I do know that according to the VIN it's a 3A. The seat grams have been hacked apart and welded back together. I'm sure with as old as it is it's had a lot of swapping and Jimmy-rigging done to it. I can take other photos as needed.

-Alex

I'm also seeing a few characteristics on the frame that are more 2A than 3A. 

After 60-70 years, it's fairly common to find a little of this and a little of that on our Willys discoveries.  Just peak at mine.  It's a 3A, dressed like an M38, with a GPW engine and 2A seat frames.  I'm all over the map.  They can become interesting time capsules.  You can't always figure out its individual pieces of history, but it's fun to speculate.

I always enjoy watching folks bring these things back to life. 

Tim

sharptailhunter wrote on 11/24/15 at 07:57:55:


If its registered as a 3A its a 3A as far as anyone needs to know. Don't muddy the waters at DMV.  2A, 3A who cares, it's a salad jeep, nuthin wrong with that. You and the boys fix it up the way you want it and have fun with it. 

I've sourced an L head that will needs be rebuilt but that was my plan anyway.

So, would you guys try to make it as close to a 2A or 3A? I like the 3A windshield better than the 2A. Like you guys have said, unless anybody really gets crawling under there, nobody will really know.

Yeah, I measured the wheel wells the other day and they are 34". That's when I knew I at least had a 2A tub. The clutch/brake pedal assembly mounting bracket and the rear differential led me to determine that I have a 2A frame.

Guess the elephant in the room then is should I not bother posting anything on a "3A" forum? I can take my toys and go to the 2A forum 

Alex