The tub reassembly turns out to be more common sense than rocket science. As others have stated in this thread, the best approach is to work from the middle of the tub, to the outside of the tub. There are variances that we can take, but you must always consider ‘Access’. Some parts that need to be attached can be very difficult to get at with your welder, and even harder to see while you’re welding. Particularly, the rear wheel house areas.
A few bullet points…
- Keep it square. (or at least as square as you can)
- Use your frame as a jig. (This will assure the tub will fit right when you’re done)
- Work from the inside to the outside.
- Lot’s of clamps and vise grips.
- Clean welding surfaces.
I used a simple wire feed welder for this assembly.
I needed two tubs to make a single decent tub. One 2A and one 3A tub. I started with a decent cowl, dash, firewall and transmission hump assembly. If you don’t have at least this, you may want to consider a new tub assembly from MD Juan.
You can purchase nearly every part of the tub separately. Keep this in mind when you come across a part that isn’t salvageable.
I made the floor pans.
I purchased the floor channels. These were $140.00 and worth every penny.
With my cowl, hump assembly on the frame, and the rotten floors cut away, I clamped the pieces of the hat channels to the frame. I aligned them with the tub mounts on the frame, and the tub. This is critical. This will assure the tub will bolt up to the frame when you’re done with your build.
Once the channels were positioned, I clamped them all together, took them off the frame and welded this sub-assembly together.
Once the channels were together, I put them back on the frame to check alignment. Next, I installed, the front floor pans.
I put this assembly back on the frame, then slid the channels into position for final mock up. Once the channels were aligned with the frame and tub, I clamped them into position, removed the tub, then welded them on.
I drilled and bolted this assembly to the frame. I used the rubber body mounts for correct positioning.
With the front of the tub complete, I moved my focus to the rear. This may be an unusual approach, but in my mind, this would assure the rear area would stay square and flat. The rear floor was welded to the wheel houses.
Next, I clamped the purchased floor riser to the front tub assembly and the frame. I set the rear floor and wheel house assembly on the frame and aligned it with the floor riser.
I drilled the rear mounting holes and bolted it all to the frame. With everything clamped and bolted, I welded the front assembly, the riser, and the rear assembly together.
To keep the wheel houses square, I needed to attach the tailgate surround, the rear valence, and the two rear panels.
Next, the wheel house supports were welded in.
The rear quarter panels and supports could now be installed.
And finally, the tool box.
Keep in mind, other things like seat frames, tail gates, and gas tanks need to fit right. Have these items on hand while you’re putting your tub together. You will want to test fit them, and make adjustments as needed.
This is just one approach to putting a tub back together. You may not need to go to this extent. Generally, it’s a good idea to keep as much of the tub together as you can. In this case, I had no choice but to take it down this far.
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3A Tub-Some Assembly Required! (Read 12637 times)
