The shutting off problem returns

[Mark W.]

Electric fuel pumps PUSH the fuel they do a terrible job of SUCKING the fuel. That pump should be located as close to the bottom of the tank as possible NOT up on the inner fender. You should also have it wired with a Oil Pressure safety switch to shut it off in case of a roll over or other wreck.

Holley has an excellent wiring diagram for this I will post it here so as to make sure your mechanic sees it.

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/510/510-12-801-1.pdf bottom of the sheet of instructions.

[Ron D]

If it turns out you need a fuel pressure regulator, I have a Holley 12-804 for sale, $15 plus postage.

I originally bought it for the Solex (Holley 12-804 does 1-4psi) and mounted it but never put fuel in it because shortly afterwards I got rid of the Solex.
Still in original box.

[SteveKfl]

FYI... A quick "image search of inline electric fuel pumps revealed that look-alike pumps as yours pictured, indicate "4-7 PSI 34gal/hr" (and some even higher up to 10PSI).  That may be a good indicator of "too much" fuel-flow and PSI "designed-capability" to be consumed at low speed/volume requirements.  That could also explain the "extra throttle rigging" to allow more air???  Maybe not. 
 
I did find this pump listed ...  https://www.ebay.com/itm/42S-Low-Pressure-2-3-5PSI-Universal-Micro-Electric-Fuel-Pump-Polymer-Gasoline-/265814190393 ... but even that one exceeds/doubles the Solex carb "needs" as stated to be at just "1 PSI".  Could you be drowning the poor thing at low speeds, and also overheating the pump that can not get to produce the "designed flow" (aka cooling) from "blockage", therefore heating the over-pressured fuel as well???  The pump may be overheated and quits until "cooled off".
 
How ironic, my other post was against "guessing", and here I am "guessing like crazy".  Sorry, but I do feel like your electric pump is not your "best situation" from your descriptions of "symptoms".  I did see the Holley fuel regulator of Ron's offering verifying the "1-4 PSI" capability, but you may also need a "fuel pressure gauge", again hard to find one down to "1 PSI indicated", to regulate the pressure correctly and accurately.
 
I hope the above info helps target "next steps" for you to get back "on the road again" happily and reliably.  Good Luck, and please keep us posted of your adventure.   

[scoutpilot]

The use of 90-octane non-ethanol is highly recommended. An adjustment to the timing, using an analog vacuum gauge and an analog dwell/tachometer to help make this adjustment is also highly recommended. Do you want a "Sweet Spot" operation? That's what you need. Also. IMLTHO. Dump the Solex and electric fuel pump/pressure regulator and set up with an original AC single action pump (NOT A REPRO!) and an original Carter WO 636SA carb. If you can't afford it now then save you nickels and dimes, along with some dollars.

“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”

― Benjamin Franklin

[trijjicon]

To b fair with the mechanic I am using now, he hasn't been the only one working on this jeep. There have been many others. He has "undone" several things the others tried. That higher pressure fuel pump in use now was not his idea, that was another mechanic. But I can c the other mechanic's reasoning. If it's not getting enough fuel then u need more pressure. In this case, it seems not to be the case. I try to b fair in my judgements of others.

[scoutpilot]

I do not believe anyone here is trying to denigrate either you or your friend, the mechanic. For the most part, we have all encountered something with these old Jeeps that left us scratching our heads and wondering "Where do I go from here?" The important aspect here is that we who have responded positively are trying to help both of you over this roadblock. With no malice intended, do you and/or he have a maintenance and/or parts manual to help diagnose this issue? My rule number one? Open the book before I open the wallet. Also, I'm sure many of us have iPhones and I, for one, am always ready to Facetime, thereby making a house call. An extra set of eyes is almost always better. And just remember, I'm on Eastern Time.

[Todd Orander]

Couple of corrections, I didn't specify an octane just that it should be non ethanol. The fuel pump I installed was replaced by another shop so I don't have the specs but I can check psi when it comes back. I'm going to move the pump closer to the tank and run new fuel lines, correct the fittings and install a mechanical temp gauge.

[SteveKfl]

Mr Orander, since you signed in as a "guest", I'm thinking you might be the "mechanic".  First of all, thanks on behalf of Willys Jeep owners that you are even willing to work on non-computerized vehicles, a scarce commodity these days.  Second, as Mr Pilot said, no one means anything negative to anyone, we're just sharing experiences in seeking solutions AND "learning from others from that". 
 
Suggestion... if you are planning on "replacing the fuel lines" and "relocating the pump and changing fittings", have you and the owner considered retaining the existing line to be used as a "return line" from a "pressure regulator"?  It seems from shared comments that Solex carbs are "touchy" about wanting low pressure.  Seems like an opportunity to utilize the lines there and approach that potential issue.  Have "temperatures" at the pump (and carb) been monitored to see if it might be a "source of the heated fuel" potential issue? 
 
These are just suggestions of how "I" would approach the issue if this situation were mine.  This site's "sharing of knowledge and experiences" has saved me lots of time and expenses over the years.  I am grateful to "all" who participate.  It has been very helpful.   Good Luck, and please keep us posted of trials and tribulations.  Thanks. 

[Ron D]

Because he's not using the block-mounted mechanical fuel pump and its typical metal line to the carb that sometimes gets run too near the manifold, I'd say that "heated fuel" (a.k.a. "vapor lock") is probably not the problem.
In other words, I wouldn't be looking for vapor lock until after new lines and fittings have been installed and the pump has been relocated and pressure has been verified.

The history of his Solex and whether or not it's clean and functioning correctly should also be studied.
And if that Solex banjo fitting was ruined by mating it to the wrong pipe thread fitting, good luck finding a new one.

I agree the best solution is changing back to the correct mechanical pump and Carter carb ---- and could probably be done for a couple three hundred bucks.
I bet ScoutPilot could give you a deal on both --- guaranteed to run perfectly!

Good luck!

[trijjicon]

Yes, Todd is the mechanic I use now. He has alrdy worked some miracles out of this Jeep. I am confident that somewhere in all these posts, he will find the solution. He is not old-school...his personal jeeps r all modern versions. He is traditional however, in thought and holds dear to the ways things "used" to b. Indeed, he is a rare find. I truly appreciate the support all of u r offering. That too is rare today. Thanks and may the Seasons b kind to all of u.

[trijjicon]

@ Scout Pilot... Hello Scout: I PM'ed u a couple days ago but couldn't confirm it was actually sent. Just in case, I'll post the question here. Ron D states above u might have the correct mechanical pump and a Carter carb. If so, I'd like to get those from u??

[scoutpilot]

This is an L134 flathead 4, correct?

[trijjicon]

Yes it is.

[scoutpilot]

Okay. I can have a WO 636SA and an AC 572 pump in about two days. Is that good enough?

[trijjicon]

Haven't heard back from Todd. I don't know if those will work or not.