The shutting off problem returns

[trijjicon]

I've posted this problem here before. My mechanic and I thought we had it fixed and we did for the most part. It would still shut off but couldn't be re-cranked easily. He fixed it so it would re-start easy. But yesterday while driving it around town in stop and go traffic, it shut off when averaging 40mph (ie. while moving)...right dead in the road...8 times. I chatted with my mechanic and my thinking was the fuel is vaporizing b4 it gets to the engine. It gets really hot on the floorboards down the drive-train. But I've never had the radiator boil-over. As long as I could maintain gas pedal, I could keep it running. Even stopped at red lights, I have to continue to shift to neutral and push the gas pedal to keep it running. Part of my mechanic's last work involved scoping the gas tank out, purging the fuel lines, changing to a higher pressure fuel pump, and changing out the fuel filter. There were no contaminants in the fuel tank. The choke feature is not attached...it wasn't when I purchased the Jeep. Some1 jerry-rigged a small piece of metal that holds the throttle open abit...assuming this was done to help it keep running. He wants to re-connect that throttle, take a closer look at that small piece of metal and put on a new carburetor. I'm to check my radiator level b4 bringing it to him. Any feedback from u guys would certainly be most appreciated. It's just too dangerous to be driving in traffic with this going on. Thnx

[scoutpilot]

Some photos of the engine bay would really help us.

[trijjicon]

I have more photos if needed. I tried twice to send all 10 but size was too big first time. Second try after re-sizing, thre was a server error and to contact the administrator. Let me know and I'll post the other photos. thnx

[scoutpilot]

Three things stand out for me. I see a ground wire running to the block. Where is the other end? Electric fuel pump or pressure regulator on the fender? How old are the rubber fuel lines? I'll be honest, I'm not a fan of single-clamp setups, especially if they're securing rubber to straight-cut metal.

[Ron D]

Maybe it's just me, but the 3rd photo showing the hose barb fitting screwed into the banjo fitting on the carb ---> is that barb fitting NPT threaded and the banjo isn't?

Looks like a Solex carb. Could be mistaken, but don't they take less fuel pressure than Carter?

[trijjicon]

I am not a mechanic Ron, so sorry I can't answer ur questions. I sent Scout an e-mail and asked him to respond.. but I c he hasn't done that yet. I also have not heard from my mechanic. If u guys want/need more photos, tell what u need to c. I'd like this fixed if any1 is offering? Provided distance, expenses r doable. Thnx

[scoutpilot]

I did respond. Here. On this site. 11/02/2023.

[trijjicon]

To Scout... I meant respond to Ron D's questions about the barb fitting and the Solex and Carter carbs being different??

[scoutpilot]

Yes. It is a Solex carb. Yes. the Solex requires no more than 1.5 psi fuel pressure. I am curious as well about the plumbing at the Banjo Bolt. Coarse thread does not mix well with fine thread and will probably leak air into the fuel flow and drop the pressure. I am also curious as to the function of the red device on the fender.

[trijjicon]

As am I curious also. Thnx Scout for answering Ron questions. I'm just looking for a solution. What needs to be done here? Just tell me what I need to do to fix this.

[Ron D]

Hi Trij,
My impression (could be wrong) is that you aren't going to do the work to fix it yourself and instead will rely on your mechanic to do the work?

Any competent mechanic (buying or supplied with correct quality parts) should be able fix what appears to be several related problems with your fuel delivery system.
Replacing fuel fittings and hoses and clamps that fit together properly is fundamentally simple mechanic stuff, and fairly quick and inexpensive to accomplish.
He should also be able to test fuel pressure to make sure the Solex gets the correct fuel pressure.

Just my 2 cents.
Good luck!

[trijjicon]

I'm no mechanic and don't know how. I know some stuff but not enough to figure this one out. Ur 2 cents is certainly worth more to me as it gives me hope. Many mechanics have worked on this Jeep. Just taking my money I guess. But this last one actually fixed a bunch of stuff the others said couldn't be fixed. And his prices were very reasonable. He's a good man. I hate to even think I'm gonna have to sell it only to find out later...it just needed alil here and alil there. Runs great. (be just my luck). And u r right, it should've been fixed long time ago.

[trijjicon]

I was able to speak with my mechanic last night. He had seen the posts but couldn't respond as he is not a member. He doesn't recall where the other end of that ground wire went. He wants to c the Jeep again and fix it. That red unit on the fender is ( and I think that is what he said) the fuel pump. The original fuel pump on the engine block was sealed off (non-functional). He will change the fuel line to metal but he did replace the old fuel lines at some point when he was working on it. He didn't think fuel pressure was an issue. He thought also that with the lil use I get out of the Jeep, using 89 Octane won't work if the Jeep sits up. I'm to go with 95 Octane non-ethanol. That is not sold at the Enmarks I use. 92 is all we get, so I'll have to shop around. He suspects an air leak and engine running hot enough to vaporize the fuel b4 it gets to the engine. He'll install an engine temp gauge to b sure it's not running too hot. Will b next weekend b4 he is free-up to work on it.

[SteveKfl]

I feel your frustrations... and I think I just felt a shiver from Scott Pilot and others from some of the content recently posted.  Too many "guess items" instead of basic tracking for "problems"... IMO. 
 
This site has already "taught us members" from "quality-input experienced-mechanics" (I'm not one of them) that fuel pressure and proper timing and air/fuel mixture are basic starting points.  "Higher Octane" use as been opined on before as "not a FIX", and may even "create other problems" for the "1933 technology engine".  The non-alcohol fuel has been recommended for "low use" vehicles, but not at 95 octane if avoidable.  Here in Florida, we have no-alcohol "Rec gas" or "RV gas" at 89/90, still high according to the "experts". 
 
So here's a quote from your first post here... "Part of my mechanic's last work involved scoping the gas tank out, purging the fuel lines, changing to a higher pressure fuel pump, and changing out the fuel filter."  Note the statement "higher pressure fuel pump", while elsewhere it has been indicated that your Solex carb "requires LESS PRESSURE at approximately 1.5 PSI" vs factory 2-3 PSI with a Carter set up.  I don't see a "pressure regulator" or return fuel line for any "adjustments" potential.  The electric fuel pump model number should have "specs" to see what "expected output flow and PSI should be" to 'guess' if it is part of the problem "producing too much".  Otherwise, I'd invest in an inline fuel pressure gauge before the card, to SEE what you actually are pumping into the carb.  You may also want to invest into a "stock-type mechanical fuel pump" vs the electric pump.  That stock type system has been in use successfully for almost 90 years since the L-Head was introduced and used in the 1933 Willys cars.  Most seem to run fine with the system in place and with proper adjustments. 
 
If it ain't "broke", don't try to "fix it".  You have also said in your posts..."Overheating" is not an issue", but added "the floor gets hot".  Is the muffler and/or tailpipe too close to the fuel line when "replaced" or "fuel lines were purged"?
 
Maybe someone will support or refute my comments from "their experience" and/or "expertise", but I hate to see you chasing "guesses".  That gets expensive!!!  Good Luck!   

[Ron D]

Now that we know your mechanic is reading these posts.......
X2 on everything Steve said.

The L134 was designed to run perfectly on 68 octane. Can't buy it that low nowadays.
While ethanol-free gas is always best, 89 octane from the pump today is more than sufficient for it to run well.

Maybe it's just me, but some of the things your mechanic told you (for instance, about octane and fuel pressure) make me wonder......

And to be fair, the Solex is an unusual carburetor, even on a jeep (some call it "goofy").
Your mechanic would be well-advised to "google it" and study up on it.
If I recall correctly, one of it's odd-ball features is that you must not touch the throttle when starting it. Use the (goofy operating) choke only.
It was the first thing I ditched on mine, in favor of an original Carter.

If it helps, here's some Solex reading material for you:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/solex-carburetor-issues-on-46_topic42224.html
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=17687

Good luck!