New 3A (to me), Trans Cover & Seat Questions....

[SteveV]

[size=14]I recently bought this 3A.� Putting it together one by one.� Got her idling today which is good.� Also, the Jeepsterman is only 20 minutes away for parts.� Big bonus.

I am pretty sure the body is reproduction, it's just too nice.� Not 100% sure though.� A major problem i have is the cover for the transmission on the body. (as pictured)� I removed the body a handful of times, check Engine & Trans Mounts.... It does not mount correct at all, about 1" off.� Anyone have these problems?� Hopefully it's the wrong cover?[/size]





[size=16]I am also looking to purchase seats.�
Something like these....
http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-44801-Black-Back-Seat/dp/B001CF1V3C

Does anyone have any experience buying aftermarket seats?� Advice?

Here is the rest of the car....[/size]

[athawk11]

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the 3A Page.

That's a beautiful project.� I'm fond of the bright yellow Willys Jeeps.

The older reproduction tubs were fraught with fitment issues.� Honestly, even the modern versions still have some problems.� I'm not seeing too many "tells" from the photos you've posted.� Different angles and some close ups of specific areas would help.� I can see one thing.� On original tubs the holes for the brake and clutch pedals are oval.� Yours appear to be round...and not equidistant from the hole for the steering column.� Unless the floor was replaced, this suggests the tub is a reproduction.� This might be why you're having a problem with the shift tower.

Also, the back of your tub looks like it's sitting about an inch rearward of the rear bumper/crossmember.� The crossmember and the rear wall of the tub should be nearly flush.� If you can shift the tub forward, your shift tower issue will probably go away.� Of course, this may cause mounting issues with the front fenders and body mounts.� Have you tried to lineup the fenders yet?

Tim

[CJPilot]

I bought a repo body kit and had to cut my �transmission cover� apart, reposition and weld it back together to get it to fit.


I could be completely wrong here but if that is a repo body I�d bet it was painted before it was extensively reworked in order to fit properly on the frame.  If that is the case it�s going to take some tweaking to get everything to line up.

As far as seats I�m going with  3A seat frames  with 2A springs from Walck�s

[SteveV]

the back of your tub looks like it's sitting about an inch rearward of the rear bumper/crossmember.� The crossmember and the rear wall of the tub should be nearly flush.� If you can shift the tub forward, your shift tower issue will probably go away.� Of course, this may cause mounting issues with the front fenders and body mounts.� Have you tried to lineup the fenders yet?

Thanks!� Great mention on the body in the back & fenders.� Makes my gears go a little smoother thinking the body has to be moved forward.� I haven't mocked up the fenders yet, but I am sure that they will be off considering the rest of the body.

EDIT--- I got the fenders, grill support, & hood on today and they bolted up OK.  I spoke to Jay @ WILLYS-OVERLAND today and he said this is a common problem on repro bodies.  They "tweak" the holes in the body to make it come forward about 1.5-2".  Considering my fenders and stuff lined up, I am going to fabricate something or modify the trans cover to make it fit.  The rear of the body is in fact hanging a little bit, but I can handle that for now. 

[SteveV]

I could be completely wrong here but if that is a repo body I�d bet it was painted before it was extensively reworked in order to fit properly on the frame.  If that is the case it�s going to take some tweaking to get everything to line up.

I'm not sure where this body came from or who made it.  The owner was so confident that it is original, "found it in a junkyard"....but I don't think so.  He may have found a repro in the j/y!  He included pictures of it before he painted it.  It was black.

It looks like I will have to re-work the body.  As the above poster, athawk, noticed the rear isn't flush. 

[Ryan_M]

It looks like I will have to re-work the body.  As the above poster, athawk, noticed the rear isn't flush.

I'm guessing you installed the tub where it is because the steering column was bolted down tight and that's where the tub landed. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the steering box to the frame and then push the tub forward to its correct position. You may have to loosen the steering column bracket too.

[SteveV]

push the tub forward to its correct position

Hi Ryan, thanks for the info.

Reason for adjusting body -- Trans Cover, rear of body extends past frame, fender lineup.� I can deal with the body extending past the frame at this point.� If I really want to correct it, it will be later.� For now I will fabricate something for the transmission cover for the shifter.� there seems to be plenty of room for the steering column.� I bought the Jeep last week... still learning about these.

In all reality, I will have to cut some of the body to bring the body forward about 1.5".� I thought about drilling the frame mounts and seeing if that will provide me with enough room.� Would be tight.� Before I go cutting the body or the body mounts, I am going to get the car together and go from there.�

Not bad to do it all over again. 8-)

[specialty]

That would be a shame to cut such a nice body. not to mention the work and cost to repaint. The trans tunnel cover would be a easy fix by just fabricating a piece for it, welding, grinding it flat, doing a little filling and repainting it. From what I have read the body does not have to sit on the hat channels. I think you can just get rubber bushings and using some shims and mount your body to that. You could also just get some rectangular tubing� the same overall size(height and width)  as the hat channel and weld it to the hat channel flush with new mounting holes to move it forward and it would be good as new after painting the short pieces. Tubing is what I am using on  mine mainly because it's cheap, stronger, and looks good.Other than a novice no one would know but you and it would still look good on a lift ! If you can't find the tubing I think I have some and could ship you a piece. Good luck on your project. You are well ahead of me and only have had it a week!

[CJPilot]

[size=12]Here is how I reworked my cover. PITA
[/size]

[specialty]

So you had to move your body also or just the tunnel? That works.

[specialty]

push the tub forward to its correct position

Hi Ryan, thanks for the info.

Reason for adjusting body -- Trans Cover, rear of body extends past frame, fender lineup.� I can deal with the body extending past the frame at this point.� If I really want to correct it, it will be later.� For now I will fabricate something for the transmission cover for the shifter.� there seems to be plenty of room for the steering column.� I bought the Jeep last week... still learning about these.

In all reality, I will have to cut some of the body to bring the body forward about 1.5".� I thought about drilling the frame mounts and seeing if that will provide me with enough room.� Would be tight.� Before I go cutting the body or the body mounts, I am going to get the car together and go from there.�

Not bad to do it all over again. 8-)

After studying the pictures more Ryan is right. you just need to move the body forward. It is obvious after looking at it that the cover was on it before, you can see the marks where it was. You need that 1.5 inch at the back and that 1.5 inch at the tunnel. I think when you put the grill on you will find that you are about that same distance short of bolting up the fenders to the grill. Have you tried your brake and clutch pedals yet?

[SteveV]

You could also just get some rectangular tubing  the same overall size(height and width)  as the hat channel and weld it to the hat channel flush with new mounting holes to move it forward and it would be good as new after painting the short pieces.

I like it.  I will post pictures tomorrow of exactly what's going on and my thoughts on it.
I got the fenders and grill mounted this afternoon with no problems. A little flexing but everything seemed to line up well.

CJ Pilot, It looks like I am heading in that direction temporarily.  BUT I'd hate to cut the cover, thinking maybe a step-up.  We'll see in the next few days.

[specialty]

You could also just get some rectangular tubing� the same overall size(height and width)� as the hat channel and weld it to the hat channel flush with new mounting holes to move it forward and it would be good as new after painting the short pieces.

I like it.� I will post pictures tomorrow of exactly what's going on and my thoughts on it.
I got the fenders and grill mounted this afternoon with no problems. A little flexing but everything seemed to line up well.

CJ Pilot, It looks like I am heading in that direction temporarily.� BUT I'd hate to cut the cover, thinking maybe a step-up.� We'll see in the next few days.

Let me know on the tubing if I can help you out. Did you have the grill mounted and bolted in? If so with the body still setting back like in the pictures do the mounts below the firewall line up or need to come forward also? If they need to come forward also I see no way the fenders could reach the grill mounting holes unless I am missing something. By the way I do have a original set of 3A seat frames if you're interested. No pads, just frames. I think you can buy  the cushions or have a local upholstery shop make them to your likings. Keep at it.

[Kirkski]

I love me some yellow!

[macrisel]

Sorry I'm late to the thread, but I thought I would chime in.  It appears to me you may have a repro tub and an OEM trans cover.  My repro tub would not work with an OEM trans cover due to the header panel being a different angle on the tub floor.

Luckily, my repro tub came with a repro trans cover that fit together perfect.  As I'm sure you have found, whenever you throw repro parts into the mix, you should plan on assembling EVERYTHING together 3-4 times to check for fit, form and function and expect on making changes.  Repro body parts become very familiar with grinders, welders and torches...