Help! 51 CJ3A

[SSG T]

Haha turned sh** into excrement..... Anyways should I replace the head gasket and stud?/or can I get away with just the stud

[athawk11]

Ouch.

Hopefully the stud is the only thing that is damaged and stripped.

If the new stud doesn't seat tightly, you might have to pull the head and repair the deck surface with a threaded insert.  (Available everywhere)

So, get a new stud and head seal.  Drain a portion of the radiator fluid from the block.  Clean the deck and head while open.  Inspect them for cracks.  Fix bad stud threads in deck if needed.  Install new stud, and new head seal.   Torque the head in the recommended order.  Fire it up.



 

[SSG T]

Its the threads not the stud. Friend is coming over Tuesday hopefully to fix it. Then hopefully shell be done

[SSG T]

Anyone know the size and pitch for the hellicoil?

[SSG T]

Trying to find the stud pitch but can't find it online anywhere. Not gonna have time to get somewhere to measure it before he comes and he's picking up what he needs on the way. Any of you guys know the pitch!!??!!

[athawk11]

I believe it's 7/16" x 14.

[SSG T]

Thank you brother!

[SSG T]

Alright guys got it fixed! New stud and head gasket seems to have worked. Need a new fuel pump because its spitting out fuel. Also the Generator isn't working. My friends dad says I can get a 1 wire GM alternator, 12 volt coil, new bulbs and I can have it switched over to 12v with out buying the expensive conversion kit. Any truth behind that? As always thanks for the help boys!

[SSG T]

Hey guys,

Ended up ordering a 12v convention kit but I think my timing is still a little off. You can here it miss firing from the exhaust. What should I do?

[Ryan_M]

Do you have a timing light to help dial in the timing? How about a dwell meter or at least a feeler gauge to make sure the points are adjusted correctly prior to setting the timing?

[SSG T]

Nope unfortunately. Some one said I can loosen up the distributor and listen?

[Oilleaker1]

A timing light is the best, but a old rule of thumb for on the road fixes, is loosen the clamp on the distributor and rotate it in the direction of increased idle. That's advancing. Rotate it for the fastest idle without faultering. Then retard the timing 100 RPM's and you will be close. If it sputters, try adjusting the carb mixture screw to smooth the idle out to the best. If that doesn't work, you may need to do a valve adjustment. One or more may be tight, or not enough clearance. John

[athawk11]

Leaker,
What are your doing over here...slummin it? 

Sarge, the Leaker speaks the truth, but I'll be honest, I don't have a timing light either.

The entry from the 2A Page, done by Sean is excellent.  It's called the Geico Methoud.  (you know...It's so easy, even a cave man can do it.)

I rely solely on this approach.  You may find it very helpful...

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/l134-ignition-timing_topic13819.html

Tim

[Bob W]

A regular test light can be used to set the timing too. Connect the test light between ground and the distributor side of the coil (-). Use Sean's "Geico" method of setting the crankshaft at 5 degress BTDC and then with the key on turn the distributor as described. When the test light lights up the points have just opened and you can tighten down the adjustment bolt.

[Oilleaker1]

I came over here to see what "Hawky" was doing. I have a 3A too you know. I don't descriminate when it comes to Jeeps---LOL.  8-) Oilly