CJ-3A wiring

[dodjh]

Mine has the push button starter also but not hooked up..I think.

It looks rough I know but the engine has been rebuilt and they started wiring on the headlights and at some point decided to buy a,"BAD BOY," 4 wheeler....8K to 10K.

Well...I would read posts and think I understood and go out and look at that mess and go blank.

[dodjh]

The windshield, and jeep were made during the transition from the CJ2A to the CJ3A.

The research I have read said you might have a  49 or early 50 CJ3A with the split windshield.

The rear is the Dana 44.  I don't know if I dare try and post a picture of the RG&P cover.

Just went and looked at the cover again.

The design on the cover is not circular and has 10 bolts.

[Gunslinger]

dodjh,
Wow, looked at the pics and man I've never seen a mess like that before.  I hate to say it but it looks like you have multiple iterations of fix, re-fix and do over sitting under that hood.  My suggestion is that you "snip it and rip it".  Get all of that bad wire out of there, then identify each of the components that you have and decide which is needed to work with which.  You've got a single wire alternator, and a voltage regualtor, they don't go together.  You can get rid of the ballast resistor by buying a coil with an internal resistor.  Decide if you are going 12 or 6 volts, I'd say you decided on 12 if you're staying with the alternator.  Then pull the gages an build your wiring harness on the back of a cardboard.  You will save yourself a ton of anguish.

[dodjh]

Gunslinger....is my alternator considered single wire due to the jumper wire from Batt, terminal on Alt. going to the post/stud on it also?

I'm having trouble figuring out on what side of: the ignition switch (which is on/off), the ammeter, the fuel gauge, and starter solenoid to connect each wire, left side or right side.

I did get a coil with a built in resistor...so I removed the ceramic ballast resistor.

The current ignition swith has wires on the left side and some wires on the right side (which is on/off style switch.)

The alternator is confusing because it has a two wire feed plastic plug and a post/ stud that has wires to it also.

One of those wires on the plastic two wire plug, is a jumper to the post/stud on the alternator.

Also, I know I should put in fuseble links in specific locations, but have tryed to draw it all out and always run into a snag.

There's not that much to wire but I'm still looking at diagrams and rereading all the replys on this post.

[F Bill]

http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/elec/wiring/index.html

Check this again, your alternator conversion sounds like it is the one to the far right of the next to last drawing.

Then look at the drawing immediately above the charging system drawing, and note that Sean states that even with the key off, the starter, lights, and horn still operate.

What that means for you is with a two terminal ignition switch, one terminal is always hot with voltage. That is the terminal your starter , horn, ammeter, and lights all hook to. �The other terminal, the switched one, is the one your ignition circuit is built to connect to, so that when you turn the key on, you have ignition, and when you turn it off, it is no longer fireing and the engine dies. � You will still need some sort of starter switch to activate your starter solenoid when you use the two terminal ignition.

What does your ignition switch look like again? And what are you using the fusible links for? If you are using them as fuses to protect wiring, just use fuse holders and fuses. If you are using a fusible link as an ignition resistor, it would go in the wiring between the ignition switch and the coil, and it must be natched to the coil .....

[dodjh]

F Bill...it does look like the alternator set up on the far right.

My ignition swith has two male blades to attach too.  Each has a female connector with two wires

piggy backed to them.  The left side (switch off) has a third wire coming off of it also.

The fusible links were additions I read about that should be in your circuitry.

I wasn't intentionally using them for an ignition resistor.

I do have a push button to engage the starter with ignition key on.

Also, I use to get a notification when I had a response to a thread but aren't getting them now.  Do I need to

edit my profile?

Thanks

[dodjh]

Well.....I guess I've rode this horse to the ground.

[F Bill]

Checking notification for replies....

It sounds like you have a two terminal switch with multiconnectors on each terminal? Pics would help.

The notification thing I beleive you have to click the box for notification after your last post....and once you have been notified there are new posts, you won't get any more emails until you go back and read the thread...At least that is how it is supposed to work..

THe problem with using Fusible links in your wiring is that when they do fail or burn up because of a short, you will need to rewire in new ones. A Heavy duty fuse/circuit breaker is easier to replace... If you insulate all metal panels the wire goes thru, with a grommet,  and clamp the harness well with insulated clamps, only component failure should cause a short or heavy load.  

There is a pretty good book out there about how to wire up your hot rod, or something similar...It might be worth it for ya to find it and have a good read...just remember that it is a simple jeep and won't have quite all the circuits  a fuel injected computer controlled rod would have.

The suggestion to mock up your dash is a good one.. The other thing you can do...figure out where your wires are eventually going to run, and make a fake harness in your jeep using clothesline or similar. Tie tags on it or mark it somehow what exactly  hooks up at each termination point. Then, you can pull the rope wiring harness back out of your jeep, and nail it to a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood. Use the nailed down pattern to run your new wiring harness wires along as you build it. Use colors and gages for your wires that match your diagram, but don't put the end terminals on until you have installed the harness in the jeep and you know exactly how long to make the individual wires.

Dead horse beating session over....lol.

[dodjh]

F Bill....Thank you for the feed back.....I will try to locate a book like you suggested.

[dodjh]

I started wiring the ignition switch, ammeter, push button start, coil and wires going to starter solenoid.

On this page: http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/elec/wiring/index.html the Schematic Reoresentation,

is the switch before the starter, the starter solenoid?

I went from ammeter to Pos. lug on solenoid feeding the battery and the S terminal to the start push button

on the dash and then to the off side of the ignition switch. The coil wire goes from the on position of ignition

switch to the + side of the built in resistor 12 V coil.

The new starter solenoid has plastic for the ears for connecting to fender.

Wont I need to come of that type solenoid to the fender to ground it properly?

[dodjh]

Why wont a 16G wire running from the "S" terminal on the SS (starter solenoid) then to one side of my


starter push button and the other side of push button going to off side of "on/off" ignition switch (which

should always be HOT) then a 12G wire running from ON side of (IS) (ignition switch) to Ammeter.

Then a 12G wire running from other side of Ammeter to POS. lug on SS, activate my starter? (this lug goes

to POS post on Batt.


The only way with this set up to turn the starter, is run a 12G wire from POS post on Battery to the single

post on the Starter.


The single post on the Starter(which is on top in the middle of it) has a cable running from it to the

opposite side of SS on big lug on the side.

[dodjh]

Well....the problem was the brand new push button switch....got another new one, and she turned right over!