CJ-3A wiring

[F Bill]

What do you have for an ignition switch?? A key start switch with off, run, and spring loaded start?  Or do you have just an on off switch??
In any case you need to wire up that S terminal to some sort of momentary switch hooked to your battery. Either use an universal key start ignition switch or a pushbutton on the dash that takes its power from the ignition switch..

[dodjh]

F Bill...It has a keyed ignition switch that is an off run switch that isn't spring loaded.

One of the wires on that same ignition switch runs to the ammeter and the fuel tank sending unit

The S terminal wire on the starter solenoid runs to the push button starter switch on the dash.

It then runs from the push button switch to the ignition switch.

My test light showed no power to either the push button or the ignition switch.

[NoCoWillys]

Sounds like a possible kill switch between the key and the push button, or a bad wire. �If I understand your description right, I think you might have a few things miswired. �You should have power coming from the battery to the starter relay and then to the ammeter. �From the ammeter, you should have power going to the headlight circuit, horn and to the ignition key. �From the ignition key, power should flow when in the ON position to the fuel sending unit, the push button and the coil. �From the push button to the starter relay. �That way only of the key is turned to ON can you push the push button and turn over the engine. �But, your lights and horn will still work when the key is OFF. �

[NoCoWillys]

The other option is to simplfy the setup and eliminate the push button and go with a more modern key ignition.  (maybe less security since few people know about push button start?   ) In this case, I'll just describe the ignition circuit and leave out headlights and horn since they would be the same.  You would have your main positive line coming from the battery to the starter relay, from there, to the ammeter.  From the ammeter, to your key.  From the key, one line is for the starter back to the relay to turn over the engine.  Another is to the coil.  The last one on a 4 wire key is to accessories like a radio.  Hope that helps!

As a side note, if you have a radio, I hope you didn't install it like my PO tried to do by cutting holes in the dash for speakers and a head unit with a torch...  

[dodjh]

NoCoWillys...that is roughly how it is but there is no starter relay.

[dodjh]

I looked up starter relays and a starter solenoid is the same thing, correct?

[dodjh]

To any one still interested.....I found that my ceramic resistor (on the fire wall) had been comprimised.

Probably why there is no juice to the + side of the coil.

The wiring shows the S terminal on the S. solenoid running to one side of a push button starter switch on the dash and then running to the ignition switch.

I'm in the process of accessing the ammeter wires and the fuel gauge wires.

The ignition switch has two terminals on it.....both are for a one piece female connector with two wires coming out of the same connector.

One is for the fuel gauge and wire to sending unit.  The other goes to the ammeter and wire is broke.

[dodjh]

I spent most of the day trying to get a handle on what the wiring was like in the CJ3A. (need a name)

All of the wiring to the gauges is aluminum and most of it has sections of the outer plastic missing..

Someone has redone the wiring from the head light switch forward and back to the single tail light.

Every thing else is rinky dinked. (bet you haven't heard those words in a while.)

I have sketched out how everything is hooked up now but want to go back to orginal minus 6 Volt set up.

The ammeter and fuel gauge was removed today and I think they are OK and can be salvaged.

I did a resistant check on both and they appear to be fine.  The push button starter switch will have to be replaced.

"All quite on the Western Front."

[NoCoWillys]

Yea a starter solenoid is the same thing as a relay.  Just really big due to the power starters draw. If the ignition switch only has 2 connectors on it, one is + in and the other is the switched output to your devices that need to be on when the key is in the on position.  That would be + on the coil, the input on the push button, and to the fuel sending unit.  The other connector (that has the broken wire it sounds like) goes to the ammeter to get power.  

[dodjh]

NoCoWillys....I'm trying to get a mental picture of how everything should be hooked up before I start to

run the wires.

Should I hook up the floor starter switch when doing the re-wiring?

[F Bill]

What starter and floor switch do you have? If it has a solenoid/relay operated starter, chances are it is no longer set up for a foot operated starter, and the relay operated ones are a little more reliable in my experience.

I've been on the road all day, sounds like you got a bunch more done that I did ! 8-)

[dodjh]

F Bill....I made progress in tearing stuff down but it always takes a lot longer to put it back together.

I'm not sure about the type floor switch I have.  I do have have the solenoid/ relay operated starter now.

The starter only has one wire going to it.... #2 size from the negative side of the starter relay.

[F Bill]

Unless you are going for a full by the book restore, keep the starter solenoid system. Is your relay/solenoid a ford style plastic relay with a metal mounting bracket, two large studs for the battery cables, and two small connectors for the start and Ignition wires? Or do you just have a S connection and teh two large terminals?

[dodjh]

F Bill... its more like the Ford style but only the S connector is bing used.

Doesn't the I side if hooked up reduces the voltage back down after cranking?

[F Bill]

You might google "Hooking up a Ford Starter solenoid" but If I remember correctly the I terminal actually bypasses the resistor while cranking, so you get a hotter spark while cranking ...I beleive it would hook to either the distributor side of your resistor or directly to the coil. Check out a Ford Pinto wiring diagram if you can find one... They were pretty simple in the wiring department and used that solenoid. Or you could ignore the IG terminal completely and just run the resistor all the time.

I have a great how to electrical book at the house but any older Motor's manual (your local library should have a few) will have a section on the starter circuits for different makes, and you should find what you need to know about the Ford setup there.. I have a feeling that by the time I get home to where my book is you will already be driving your jeep!