Temperature Issue

[Carls_jeep]

I agree, re-plumb the hoses as they are supposed to be and your trouble will disappear.

[athawk11]

I think I'm going to take your advice. �I am running out of things to do on the Willys and as a result I am experiencing some withdrawls.

JohnyBravo asked for a booty shot. �When I think 'Booty' I think....



Correct me if Booty is something other than the back side.

Tim

[jluyk53]

It looks amazing. Nice work.

Our '53 runs at 180-190 in the summer and I would expect that even in cold weather it would still be around 170.

Sorry I don't know how to fix your problem.

Justin

[aboyandhisdog]

Okay jiuyk53, I'll bite...what the heck is with your signature???

[johnnybravo]

  Very nice and thank you. �I am using Gamma Goat tail lights on mine also. �Have you priced those things lately?  

[jluyk53]

I agree with ventport. I would change it back to factory. He's right that even though the difference at 175 is 30 less at the gauge, it could be at 210 degrees and read 155 and without the temperature gun, you'd have now way of knowing til there was steam coming out from under the hood.

Justin

[athawk11]

Thanks to all for posting.
This thread bounced around a little. �My fault.

I am going to run the hose connections to a factory standard. �Does anyone have a good photo of the connection at the back of the head?

JohnyB,
I got the Goats from Saturn Surplus about 8 months ago. �I think I paid around $45.00 each. Not Cheap, but I thought is was worth it to get the look and the visibility.

Dog,
I think he's using keyboard symbols to make a Jeep drawing. �I thinks it's pretty cool.

Tim

[aboyandhisdog]

Tim, now I see it!  Looks like a Cherokee.

[jluyk53]

Yes it's a Cherokee. My daily driver is a 2000 Cherokee Sport.

[Gunslinger]

Tim,
I hope to get soem pics up today of Triple X, I'll put them in the malarky section,  but the connection at the back of the head is just a water valve.  Mine looks like it came off the side of the house, I believe its a 1/2 NPT.  If you install it when the engine is in the vehicle you may have to take the valve body apart in order to clear the head huts when you screw it in.  Use some RTV as thread sealer, then you have to install a barbed hose connection in the valve.  Water comes out of the pump, to the heater, then into the back of the head.  I used a brass 90 on the waterpump with a barbed hose fitting.  Its pretty easy work.
Todd

[Carls_jeep]

Gunslinger, the flow is in the opposite direction of what you said. The water pump builds pressure in the block and head and the water flows from the head to the heater coil then to the suction side of the water pump.

[Gunslinger]

OK, that makes sense, it seemed a little goofy to have the valve on the back side of the heater.
Thanks Carl.

[athawk11]

I have explored the re-alignment of the heater hose connection. Attached is a photo of where I believe the hose connection should go.



I believe I now know why the my heater and gauge are connected the way they are. �The hole for the heater hose would need to be tapped through the head, right? �So, to do it right, I have to pull the head, drill and tap the hole, then install a threaded hose barbed connection. �I'm not thrilled about pulling the head. �I just got this thing all back together and running nice.

Engine and head are original GPW.

Tim

[Carls_jeep]

Yep, that dimple is where it gets drilled and tapped. Army Jeeps don't have heaters, so, yours is not drilled and tapped.

Your only choice is to plumb the heater the way you showed it in your first posts. There is also an electronic temp gauge that is a contact gauge. You epoxy the sender to the head and it gives you the head temp of the engine. Some attach to a head bolt. They are used on racing Karts and other applications.

[athawk11]

Carl,
Not a bad idea.  Not that I'm concerned with an accurate restore, but is there an electronic temp gauge that has the right look and size for a CJ dash?