Cleaning the transmission and transfer case

[mrman5917]

So I've made some great progress on the teardown in the past few weeks since my last post. However, since I've removed the transmission and transfer case, the Mrs. has started complaining about the smell of the old gear oil left behind after draining the two boxes. Now, I'm by no means well versed in how to rebuild a transmission, but with all the available guides on how to rebuild these T90 gear boxes, I'm wondering if I should give it a try. If all else fails, there is a local shop that is good at rebuilding old transmissions (my dad had them rebuild his 55 chevy three speed a few months back), and I have a second T90 at my disposal from the parts Jeep I bought.

So, do I do the rebuild myself, and if so how do I get these cases cleaned inside and out? If I don't do these myself, then do I just stick these boxes in the shed out back until I'm ready to take them in to get rebuilt, or ??

[mud pie]

You could try the same tactic I used on my wife.."Stink ? That ain't no stink ! That's the pheremones all Jeeps give off, draws men for miles !!"

p.s. it didn't work on her, either.....

[Carls_jeep]

Don't be afraid to try the rebuild. There are some books that will help you and you can ask questions here. You may have to have some parts pressed off and on but that's not hard to do. The important thing is don't get in a hurry. If you have a question wait for an answer. If you think something is not right stop until your sure everything is ok.

Completely disassemble the tranny and the transfer case. You need to inspect ALL the parts and bearing surfaces to see if they need replacement. If something don't look right ask questions here or at Walcks. The output shaft and gear that rides on it in the transfer case needs to be inspected closely as well as some other parts.

Read about the rebuild BEFORE you start the rebuild.

[mrman5917]

I must say, between you're encouragement Carl and the great PM from Calvin, I think I will give it a try. Mud pie, I've been trying that for a few weeks, and now she's stopped rolling her eyes and just gives "the look" so I think I've let that one run its course.

So, now that I've decided to do this, what should I use to clean these parts? I looked through the Moses Ludel book, and he does a good job of going through the steps, but it seems to assume that your cases are clean inside and out. While everything was still in the Jeep and after the body was off I gave it some farily good pressure washings and degreasings, but the outside cases are still fairly caked with stuff, the the point that I can't tell if there are cracks or not. The inisde of the transfer case also appears to have some "chunky" oil left in all the crevasses and the bottom of the oil pan. So once I take this apart, am I just counting on Simple Green and elbow grease or is there a better way?

[F Bill]

Try scraping with a putty knife, old screwdrivers, then a wire brush on a drill... Or a angle grinder wire brush, and USE EYE PROTECTION, those bristles are instant skin penetrators, ya don't want one in your eyes..

Lots of the old tractor guys swear by cheap bargain store oven cleaner, then the car wash. It has worked for me too, it will take any paint off the data plate on the tranny tho... and not good for brass tranny parts inside the case.  THe guys at the auto garage would normally steam clean, then use a parts washer sink with solvent  to final clean, or even bake the grease off...

No two ways around it, it is a dirty job. Someone needs to calll Mike Rowe.  

[Carls_jeep]

You can use heating kerosene to wash the parts and cases in. Soaking and a wire brush may be needed but soak them outside to cut down on the odor. Mineral spirits is good but expensive. I use small wire brushes and tooth brushes to clean tight areas. Buy a wash tub big enough and deep to put the parts in.

Look for some good stiff brushes like toilet bowl brushes and wear safety goggles and old cloths. You will get dirty and kerosene will be everywhere.

[mrman5917]

My dad had suggested the oven cleaner as well. If I just used it on the cast cases, I should probably be fine by not damaging the brass parts. Where is this identification plate? Mine is either so covered with gunk it's unrecognizable, or it may be gone already. If it is still there, can it be removed for cleaning and then replaced?

The parts washer sounds very intreging. Might be time for a trip to the toy store Harbor Freight for a cheap washer. What sort of solvents would be good? I would imagine I wouldn't want kerosene in there long term, so what usually goes in there?

[jamesr]

I soaked mine in diesel (same thing as kerosene, basically) engine degreaser, pressure washed, carwashed and anything else I could think of to make it easier.   Whatever it takes.  It just takes time.  I bought a "concrete/mortar mixing tub" from Home Depot, for a washing tub.  It is made of PVC type material, is cheap ($10.00 +/-) and lasted throughout the rebuild and cleaning of the running gear.  You can do it, but as the others said, read up on it first.  and don't take forever between tear down and put together or you can easily lose your sense of reassembly of parts.  Check your clearences with a micrometer and stay with it untill you have the proper endplays, and/or clearances.  Ask Calvins opinion of replacing ALL the parts (some new parts use cheap steel and are not worth a dime, when you pay a dollar).  The best thing about doing it yourself, is you'll know exactly what you have, how it works.  Have fun.  Jim

[Carls_jeep]

Yes, many of the reproduction parts are not good. Try to find NOS parts or parts made in the USA. They are available but cost more.

[mdsull3704]

To clean the cases, make sure that all of the parts are removed, including the tags (just pop the rivets) and take them to your local machine shop and have them boiled. Should not cost too much and they will come back just bare metal. Anything not steel/iron will dissolve, hence the comment about the tags etc.

For the rest, I have been using a 5 gallon can of "starter solvent" that I got at the oil distributor in town (I supplied the can). It is very low flash point and does a good job of cleaning. I assume that you can still find something similar, but I got mine about 20 years ago! Might ask your machine shop.

Mike

[mrman5917]

Thanks, sounds like I need to find a good machine shop close. Anyone have any suggestions for the southern California area, preferably in/around San Bernardino County?

[RA472A]

I'm with Mike.  The oven cleaner and putty knife system works fine,but takes time and space to do it.  For $40 or so I think you can have it done at a local machine shop and be done with it. the rebuild is not difficult, but takes time.  When I started tinkering, I didn't know a camshaft from a hole in the ground.  i think I've done a dozen trannys last count and learned something new on every one. I second everyones sugggestions on finding NOS parts.  One of the things I will put on the MUST replace after the last two rebuilds is the entire synchro hub and clutch sleeve.  Tried to scrimp on a couple for some buddies and cost us a do over in each case.  Get a copy of Rick Stivers rebuild guide which is an invaluable resource. He still doesn't get enough credit for that piece of information, in my opinion.  Take your time, do it right and you'll be very satisfied.

[mdsull3704]

And the nice thing about having it boiled is it is clean inside and out including any nooks and cranies and any passages/vents. I have done several engine blocks and heads and gear box cases and it is the only way to go.

Mike.

[mdsull3704]

As far as rebuild parts for transmissions and t-cases, does anyone know anything about the kits from Novak Conversions? (see: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/t90_parts.htm)

[Carls_jeep]

Novak supplies good replacement parts and they are helpful with information. Call or email them but you won't know what you really need until you have the tranny/transfer cases completely disassembled, cleaned and inspected.