R&R engine for the first time...

[aboyandhisdog]

Okay, at some point here I intend to pull my engine and install same.  I have never done this and want to do it right.  Now most of the components will stay on the engine so no need to remove all of the items.  I bought a hoist and have heard that once I remove the radiator there isn't to much involved. 

I have heard there can be some issues with aligning the engine with the transmission and that there is even a special tool that might be necessary.  Can anybody steer me to just what special tools I need to get before I take this on?

Also, can anybody either walk me through the process from where the engine is ready to lift, to getting it out of the jeep, OR... at least steer me to a good resource that shows or describes the process.  I have looked through my Universal manual and my Haynes, but they aren't terribly descriptive.  Have not yet searched YouTube but will .

Thanks for the help!
Tom

[1955CJ-5]

As far as alignment when you put it back in, you can look through the inspection cover and see the transmission shaft and clutch plate and this will help you align things.

I had the top cover off the transmission so i could turn the main gear shaft and align the splines.

If you watch the gap between the bell housing and engine and try to keep it even all around, at some point it will just slide together.

Also attached is a picture of the engine hung by the sling the rental place had to go with the hoist. Some slings are adjustable and those are pretty nice.

Some like to use straps...

Make sure the lift has enough vertical clearance...if you do it inside the top of the lift may contact something like the retracted garage door before the pan clears the grill....outside of course no problem.

I pulled this one by myself. I took as many accessories off as i could just to make everything easier to access.

I also knew it was going in for rebuild...

Do you plan to replace the clutch? If so you will need a clutch alignment tool when you put it together...a transmission input shaft works the best if you have a spare but plastic alignment tools are available and work just fine.

[aboyandhisdog]

Thanks Randy.  I actually did fine the clutch alignment tool online and have one on the way though I don't plan to change the clutch.  I have the M38 tub which has the removable floor all around the shifters.  Would it be to my advantage to remove this?  Will it make it easier to get to the bolts on top of the bell housing?

I also ordered one of those load levelers for the hoist which I hope will allow me to change the angle of the engine on the hoist.  Maybe that will be useful.

Can you explain to me just what I will encounter when I start to separate the engine from the bell housing?  What will be coming away with the engine and what will stay in the bell housing?  How is the flywheel attached to the crank?  Is the rear plate between the engine and flywheel and how does it attach?  Any gaskets or seals involved in all this other than the rear main crank seal?  Do you have a photo or two of the rear of your engine and maybe the bell housing still on the trans?  That would give me a better idea of what is going on in there.

Sorry, but I've looked through my 3a parts manual and there are just no good diagrams or descriptions of any of this.  Like I said, I've not done this before.

[athawk11]

The rear engine plate will stay with the engine block and will be loose and floppy once all flywheel bolts are removed.� It is only held in place by these bolts.

You need to make sure all connections to the engine through the firewall are disconnected.� Temp gauge wire, wire connections, accelerator linkage...everything.� Also, don't forget the ground wire from engine block to frame.� Bag and mark all nuts, bolts and screws after removal.� Take lots of photos during disassembly.

No gaskets or seals will be needed when simply separating the engine from the bell housing.

A good way to help gain access to the upper bell housing-to-engine bolts is to support the engine from below with a jack...or above with your crane, then remove the front motor mounts.� Once removed, lower the front of the engine onto the frame motor mount surface.� It will still be difficult to get to them, but lowering the engine will give you more space.

Before final separation, double check again that all items that tie the engine to the Willys have been disconnected.


Edit:� Because you have the removable floor, you may not need to remove the front motor mounts to gain better access to the top bell housing bolts.

Edit 2: Don't forget to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold.

 

[1955CJ-5]

Are you planning to replace the rear main seal? Then you will need the clutch tool.� �And I would replace the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing and clutch disc while it's apart.

You could also consider having the flywheel surfaced at a machine shop.�

If you plan to replace the seal you will need to remove the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate, this will allow the clutch plate to be removed...without the pressure plate it will just be loose.(this is why you need the alignment tool for re-assembly) pay attention to the clutch plate as one side of the center spline protrudes further than the other, so don't replace it backwards!

Behind the clutch plate are the six or eight� (?) bolts holding the flywheel in place....I'll bet Tim has a picture....I don't remember if they are safety wired or have lock tabs.....

I would set the engine on TDC before removing the flywheel, and mark the fly wheel's relative location as I think it can be installed 180� off, and then you won't be able to see the timing marks through the little hole when it's all assembled.

This is not a great picture but you can see the rear of the crank and the flange that the flywheel bolts to...

Take your time and double check as you go, as Tim suggested.

If it seems stuck and won't move look it over very closely as something may be interfering or still hooked up.

Do not pry on the bell housing to separate it from the engine...it is cast and can break.� Use a dead blow mallet to help loosen things, move the engine around and sort of wiggle things and it ought to separate without a lot of force.

Post pictures and ask questions if you hit a snag...!

[aboyandhisdog]

Thanks guys, very helpful.  A few other questions: 

1)  I'm guessing it is also helpful to disconnect the speedo cable from the speedo and pull it through to get it out of the way?

2)  I remember comments about one of the flywheel bolts not being a bolt but rather an alignment pin of some sort???  Does this make any sense?  If you know what I'm referring to, just what am I looking for and what is it called?  Maybe I should order one in in the event I don't have it.

3)  My timing marks are on the timing cover and the front crank pully.  Is it therefore still necessary to worry how the flywheel goes back on?  How do I find TDC exactly, and how will I know if the flywheel might need to be surfaced?

4)  Tim, is that a blue gasket around the bell housing in your photo?  Would RTV work, do I need to dress that gasket in any way?

5)  Randy, to your questions:  I am doing an engine swap and the new engine will not have the rear plate or any clutch components or a flywheel, so I will have to transfer these over once I get the engine out.  It will have the rear main seal, so I don't anticipate having to do anything with that unless you tell me that there is a new whiz-bang seal out there that will not leak!  Then I would do that.  I will say the new engine is being done by a guy that knows his stuff so I have confidence in what all he does.  I am the weak link in this chain, but I have always wanted to learn to do this myself.

[RICKG]

Tom the M38 removable floor pans are your friend.. 8-)

[aboyandhisdog]

Thanks, Rick..I was just out in the garage looking at them and just scratching my head.  Do I have to remove the accel linkage and the brake pedal?  The shifter boots not a problem.  But there are about 7 different panels that all just seem to fit together like a big ole jigsaw puzzle.  A lot of overlapping going on.  Is there any easy way to know just what panels exactly come up?  C'mon man...you can do this in your sleep!

[RICKG]

Shoot me your Ph#

[aboyandhisdog]

Hell, I'm not proud...970-449-9975

But give me about 10 minutes to finish my pie!

[RICKG]

I'll call 12:30 MST (15 mins) Save me a slice will ya?

[1955CJ-5]

Along with the bolts there are a couple of locating pins for the flywheel...they are tapered and install from the side of the crank flange that is toward the engine. I would expect them to already be installed in your new engine. I think they need to be installed in the crank before the crank is put into the engine. See the picture

TDC is marked on the front timing cover...at least on your old engine. It might be marked "0".

If your new engine does not have the timing marks on the timing cover your flywheel will need to be oriented correctly....if it is marked....

You will probably want to support your transmission with a floor jack or bottle jack, just so you can move it up and down a little in case it binds and the engine won't slip away. The weight of the transmission will be supported by the rear mount and the crossmember but it may try to slump forward a bit and cause an alignment problem.

[aboyandhisdog]

Key lime, my mom made it.  It's awesome!

[aboyandhisdog]

Good tips, Randy!  To get to TDC, does a guy need only line it up (timing cover mark and pulley mark), or is there more than one turn of the crank involved to get the right "feel" and position?

If the new engine does not have the timing cover/pulley set up like I currently have, can I swap the timing covers and pulley?  I really like the ease of checking the timing and I have heard that many guys are unable to find the marks and get a light on it when it is on the flywheel.

[1955CJ-5]

You can probably switch timing covers easily enough. You will need to take the front pulley off. And you will need a gasket and maybe a new front seal.

If your engine is in running condition, you can turn the engine until the distributor rotor is pointed at #1 spark plug wire and then verify and fine tune with the pulley notch and pointer/timing marks.

You can also find the #1 compression stroke by pulling the #1 spark plug and putting a finger over the hole while turning the engine by hand(easier to turn if you pull all the spark plugs) and feel for the air pressure/compression stroke. When the pressure stops and turns to suction you just passed TDC.....