50 CJ3A "Nuthin' Fancy"

[squidtone]

These "supertops" used upper and lower door posts. The upper door posts screw to the windshield sides. They are made from two folded pieces of sheet metal. I was going to use them as-is, but there was swelling between the two pieces, so I drilled those out too, blasted the pieces, primed and plug welded them back together. I hammered the distorted pieces (from rust swelling between the pieces) back flat. It's all plugwelded back together. First shot is the posts taken apart...note the orange nasty rust I had to sandblast away. Next shot is the upper door post held in place on the Jeep....the holes in the left side allow slotted sheet metal screws to hold the pieces onto the windshield.

This is a pretty boring part of the job...but I thought I'd post this anyway. Just to show that a little work every day does get you to the goal eventually!

[squidtone]

Springtime means less Willys time due to flowerbeds, garden, grass, etc. But I've gotten over a hurdle or two. I dry fit the top again after some more fiddling, then, following the Koenig instructions (that I found on Dave Elliers eWillys site) I screwed the top into the windshield. That was a bit of a "gulp" to drill the holes. The top and upper side jambs are held on with #10 sheet metal screws. I got new slotted screws from McMaster Carr to maintain the vintage look.
Next was the lower jambs. These require holes in the side panels of the Jeep. That was another big "gulp", but once the first hole was in, the rest were easier. There are 4 holes per side. I figure when the top is off, I can put screws back into the holes, maybe even paint them to match and they'll be fairly invisible. But what is an old CJ if it doesn't have extra holes in the body.
I used blue tape as a guide during all the fitting and adjusting.
It IS an anxious time...fitting the parts so that you get the best fit. It doesn't just fall together.

[squidtone]

I ground off the old rusted piano hinges on the jambs, and welded in new stainless steel hinges. These were sourced from McMaster also, and a tad pricey. But I can't imagine the inevitable rust streaks that would come with steel units.

[squidtone]

The doors skins are rather floppy and the driver side had slight "oil can" issues. It looked fine but you could "boink" the door panel outward and it wouldn't lay flat against the body of the Jeep. I fashioned 1/8" steel strap, bent the pieces to have a "crown", then forced them into place on the inside of the door panel. They'll be welded top and bottom and glued in the middle with metal construction adhesive. A test fit indicates they work great...you can't "boink the oil can" with these in place.

[squidtone]

The doors are fit into the openings, adjusted, then using the hinge holes as a guide, drill holes into the door skin, and fasten with #10 machine screws. They feel solid and open really nicely.

[squidtone]

I need new handles as only a small piece of the driver side handle was left (destroyed before I got the Jeep.) I can't find a similar vintage one like my surviving handle, so I may need to buy new "RV" handles which don't look "vintage", or as nice. I think the "supertop" used a handle with a key tumbler on the driver side, and for the passenger side you flip a tab on the "slam latch" on the inside. A.L. Hanson still makes the inside slam latches (mostly for RV applications), but not the exterior handles anymore like I have. I'll have to scan the swap meets.

So I've begun to drill the rest of the holes required for the sides and rear panel. More holes. All told I had to drill 27 holes in the body so far. Oh boy. But I think it's going to be worth it.
I"ll post pix when I get the Jeep out in the sun with the new "patina'd" top. (Yes it will eventually get painted.)
Happy summer!

[SteveKfl]

Maybe this guy can help you find what you want...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Willys-Jeepster-Original-Outside-Door-Handles-/392818181045

[Rus Curtis]

Nice work!  Those holes in my jeep was the main reason I didn't like my hard top.  If the PO that put it on would have taken care about where the screws were actually placed, I'd no doubt have better feelings towards it. 

I will say the hard top allowed for stacking cargo in the back an easier thing - didn't need to worry about puncturing the vinyl/canvas soft top.

[squidtone]

Steve Kfl,
wow, thanks, those handles look quite close. That's a good "datapoint" to consider as I get closer to needing handles.

Rus,
Thanks for the comments. I think it took a week before I got up the nerve to drill the first holes. But it got easier as I went. It's a drag for sure to put holes in the windshield frame and body, but I'm trying to be neat, and so far I think they'll blend in ok.

[SteveKfl]

I just received a "reduced offer" just from my viewing the item.  Maybe you should contact the seller for what you really want.
Review offer
You received an offer
Other buyers may have received this offer. The first to accept, gets the deal.

1950 Willy's Jeepster Original, Outside Door Handles
Previous price was $50.00$50.00
Seller's Offer
$42.50 (15.00% off)
Expires in
47h 33m
Message
Here's your chance to get this item at a great price!
Seller
jeepsterjim (4718)
Shipping
$7.95
Economy Shipping
Estimated total
$50.45
Accept offer
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[squidtone]

Hmm, that's new to me.
I looked at it...I wonder if I'll get an email with an "offer" too.
I would really like to hit some of the tables I've seen at swap meets...I know I've seen vintage stuff like this there. But it's tempting to just hit "buy it now" online.

[squidtone]

Work is slow...busy summer as usual!
I bought a quart of the wake ivory (well, at least it's an equivalent color that I found at my paint supplier: Napa paints in Windsor Locks CT) and I'm getting ready for color on the hardtop.
But, it's been a slog to finish up the metal work. Sheesh this hardtop project has been going on for me since March or so.
I got the top fit to the body, drilled all the holes, put hardware through all the holes (there are lots of holes, and man, oh man, it's a task to line them up, put nuts on bolts, fiddle with tightening, try to reach each one, etc, etc). I experimented with seals and gaskets. I can get by with some stuff sold at home depot, and I got a roll of epdm rubber from amazon that's 0.062" thick. Seems good.
I fit the doors and drilled new holes and finally they were hanging by themselves on the Jeep. The Jeep combined with the top is not the easiest thing to climb in and out of! I hit my head several times exiting the Jeep and jeez that hurts. Safety and comfort were not on the top of the list with razor sharp edges and corners.
It looks funky, but it's growing on me. I think the "look" will get transformed when the thing is cleaned up and painted. The patina is sorta cool, but ahhhhm, I'm ready for it to match the Jeep in the "finished" look.
I've started grinding off the old layers of paint. I'm going as far as the red oxide. I'll leave that stuff...it's rock solid.
I need to find some window track guide sfuff. Not sure what size to get. It's a bit pricey too. I need all new flat glass. Not sure what I'll do there....I'm always on a low budget and glass around here is expensive too...I think most shops don't want to mess with custom flat safety glass.
Finally, in a few spare evenings, I made an attempt to make some new Koenig data tags. The original was aluminum but it's beat. I made new "artwork" and actually bought some toner transfer paper and made some masks, then ironed them onto some aluminum sheet stock, and etched it with hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid. I made two: one I already filled with red paint but I embedded the aluminum sanding dust into the paint when I polished it to highlight the letters. I'll be more careful with the next one. I intend to buy a 10 dollar set of harbor freight letter punches to put the model number in the empty field of the tag.
Happy CJ3A-ing.
dave

[squidtone]

In the past two months I've refreshed my bodyworking skills: Scuffing, epoxying, filler work, sanding, epoxying, 2k primering, sanding, glazing, 2K primering, 400 grit final sand. Repeat for the 14 pieces that comprise the top.
This job seemed huge to me, probably because I have no room in my garage...(two pesky hobby cars), and a half top, when disassembled, takes up a huge amount of room!

Here's a couple of the doors after epoxy, then some filler and sanding work. I filled all overlaps with 3M dripchek. Just a bit of effort to reduce water leaks, and protect the overlap weld joints.

[squidtone]

Once the filler work was done, I was ready for 2K primer. I used U-pol 2k primer. I like it.

Had to figure out the logistics of painting these big pieces both inside and out. I basically hung all the parts (except for the top and rear panel pieces) from wires out in my side yard.

The top is quite heavy, and hard to move around. I keep it on sawhorses. It ain't fun moving it around. But I got it coated and went to town doing pit filling and final smoothing with glaze.

[squidtone]

I got some color finally this weekend. Still not done...the outside of the doors and the inside of the back panel are next. I hung the jambs, and side panels, and coated them at one go. Hung a couple runs, but not too bad. I did the top too, and it looks pretty good.

All the parts have to be coated on all sides. It meant painting undersides one day, and two days later flipping it to paint the other.

And warning: yellow paint attracts bugs. Well, that's what buffing is for.

I'm STILL not sure I want to paint the doors Cream, I am thinking of painting the front jambs and doors the maroon red body color. Oh dear oh dear.

Still thinking. But I'm tired of this chapter, and I want to finish up. The top has blocked the Willys from getting it out of the garage easily. I miss driving it, but I told myself I'm not allowed to drive til I finish painting!

Assembly will begin soon!