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Offline 1955CJ-5

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #15 on: February 04, 2014, 09:56:25 PM »
It looks Great!

Jeeps need a little color....
1955 CJ-5, A friend for 58 years....1951 CJ-3A, a new addition. 1929 Model A Ford Closed Cab Pickup...

Offline athawk11

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #16 on: February 04, 2014, 10:07:41 PM »
Yep, the red wheels with a grey Willys has surely become one of my most favorite combinations.� Very nice Ryan!� Love the red cylinders too.� Kind of wish I thought of it.

 :)

Tim
« Last Edit: February 04, 2014, 10:08:16 PM by athawk11 »
2-1949 CJ3As
1-1946 CJ2A

Offline 1955CJ-5

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #17 on: February 04, 2014, 10:13:07 PM »
You need to stencil "Brembo" on that brake cylinder....
1955 CJ-5, A friend for 58 years....1951 CJ-3A, a new addition. 1929 Model A Ford Closed Cab Pickup...

Offline Ryan_M

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #18 on: February 05, 2014, 09:56:37 AM »
Quote
You need to stencil "Brembo" on that brake cylinder....

Good idea! I'll get to that as soon as I'm done installing the drag chute.
Current:
'49 CJ3A
'51 CJ3A
'42 Willys MB-T
'47 Bantam T3-C
Previous:
'46 2A
'51 3A
'52 3A
'52 M38
'54 3B
East Coast Wi

Offline macrisel

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #19 on: February 05, 2014, 12:45:40 PM »
Ryan, I'm thinking that the Jeep poster hanging up in your garage needs a new home.  I would humbly offer some wall space in my office to take that off your hands....

Offline Ryan_M

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #20 on: February 05, 2014, 12:57:28 PM »
Sorry, it was given to me by a friend and I was thrilled to get it. I just found some reproductions for you here though:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-Kaiser-Jeep-ID-Poster-MB-M38-M715-CJ-FC-DJ-Wagon-Jeepster-Super-Wagoneer-/331105139534?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4d17677b4e&vxp=mtr
Current:
'49 CJ3A
'51 CJ3A
'42 Willys MB-T
'47 Bantam T3-C
Previous:
'46 2A
'51 3A
'52 3A
'52 M38
'54 3B
East Coast Wi

Offline Bill

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #21 on: February 05, 2014, 01:30:50 PM »
I really like the red wheels on it.  Looks great!
1952 USAF M38

Offline garage gnome

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #22 on: February 05, 2014, 06:51:14 PM »
I'm diggin the red!
Nate in Western MA 1953 3A #3268, The Jalopy, '47 2A Wheelin' rig, '49 3A, #37071, unmolested, bone stock named Ted

Offline Ryan_M

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2014, 03:47:23 PM »
It's time to give the rear axle a good follow-up vist and address anything I skipped (pretty much everything except the brakes) during the initial overhaul.

Drums are off with this handy-dandy puller courtesy of BMIC (you can finally have it back now, Bruce...). If you're using anything other than one of the pullers to remove rear drums you are wasting your time.



I removed the rear differential cover for a quick peek and noticed some significant play in the small spider gears.



From a couple other threads and some additional online research it is clear that I definitely have a problem. I've been skirting the idea of a differential rebuild out of sheer intimidation but I'm tired of dreading it. Time to conquer the demon. Let's get to it.



I don't have a slide hammer but I found that by attaching the drums to the axle shaft I could use a block of wood behind the drums and with a few solid whacks from a BFH the axles popped right out.

Bearing caps removed and labeled. Don't mix these up!!



Axle housing on the operating table. The manual calls for a spreader but states a couple pry bars will do the trick when removing the carrier. I can vouch for that substitution.





Here's the offening spider gears. No real obvious problems but I will likely replace them.




More poor man's tools.

A large pipe wrench works well to hold the yoke while removing the nut. Be sure too leave those little u-bolts in place. They will protect the thin metal of the yoke from damage should the pipe wrench slip (ask me how I learned this).



Next up is a 2-jaw puller to remove the yoke. This thing fought back pretty hard. I find it amusing that in the Moses Ludel book he has pictures of a 12-yr old kid zipping this yoke off like nothing. I suggest in the next printing that the kid should be covered in blood, sweat, and grease for a more realistic representation.



I gently tapped, and then smashed the pinion out of the housing with a BFH and a brass drift.

Alternating various length "punches", I removed all the bearing races and the axle seals. Here's the longest reach - going all the way through the axle to get one of the outer grease seals. A couple taps and it popped right out.



Here's one of the races from the differential. Does this count as wear? Yikes.



So here's everything laid out.




I don't own a bearing puller of any type so I need to get one to complete the disassembly. I'll clean and inspect and then place an order for any new parts required. I'm still apprehensive about putting this thing back together. When I see words like "endplay" and "shims" and "bearing preload" I get nervous. Has anyone found a definitive "how-to" guide on a Dana 44 rebuild? There's plenty of resources for bits and pieces but no one-stop-shopping for how to really get it done. Demon conquered or not, I'd rather not be back here anytime soon - not on the same axle at least.


« Last Edit: February 09, 2014, 03:50:09 PM by Ryan_M »
Current:
'49 CJ3A
'51 CJ3A
'42 Willys MB-T
'47 Bantam T3-C
Previous:
'46 2A
'51 3A
'52 3A
'52 M38
'54 3B
East Coast Wi

Offline Jeff_M

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2014, 07:02:56 AM »
Really like the red wheels.  And stay with the chrome lug nuts, no matter what the Correct Police say.  They'll tie in nicely with the trim rings.

Offline Oilleaker1

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #25 on: February 10, 2014, 07:35:23 AM »
If I was in your shoes, it looks to me and Bruce W. too, that your spider gears are worn which allows the play you found. I've seen spider gear kits with new shims and gears, which would solve that problem. If you take things down, make sure you keep all the shims and locations documented.  The caps that hold the carrier in are marked with a circle that is vertical or sideways and so is the housing. ( mine were anyway). Looks like you are replacing bearings and races too. You are going to learn allot. Toe, Heel , backlash, depth all work together to get the right pattern on the ring and pinion. I know you can easily put 300.00 in just bearings into it. You might consider another rear end that is good if you know of any. You can fix yours, it's only money!  :'( John

Offline Ryan_M

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #26 on: February 10, 2014, 08:35:33 AM »
I am going to rebuild it and I have a box of goodies on the way from Walck's. I'm still looking for a good rebuild guide. I have documented where all the existing shims go but does that mean with new spider gears, bearings, races, seals, etc that the shims will all be the same? I'm thinking at the very least I need to be able to check them. Anyone have a good resource as to how to do this? Probably the best I've found so far is a downloadable guide from the Dana website. It seems pretty good except that the pics are so fuzzy you can't really see anything in them. I'm simple. I need pics. 
Current:
'49 CJ3A
'51 CJ3A
'42 Willys MB-T
'47 Bantam T3-C
Previous:
'46 2A
'51 3A
'52 3A
'52 M38
'54 3B
East Coast Wi

Offline F Bill

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #27 on: February 10, 2014, 10:05:30 AM »
We did ONE rear end in college, and it was pretty much just a take it apart and reassemble job.  The main problem areas that you must get right are pinion preload and ring gear/pinion mesh. A lot of guys bring their rears to folks that do them all the time, as it is such finicky work.

A lot of times you read about having a set of setup bearings so you don't have to keep pressing new bearings on and off as you try out different shim packs to get the pattern and preload right. If you are replacing your old bearings use them to make setup bearings out of as long as they are still intact. (You'll need to hone out the center holes so they slip on instead of having to press them on.)

Good luck with it. Good pictures as you go and a little typing and you could make your very own rebuild guide and be as famous as Rick Stivers....If you decide to do that we have a good place for it in the FAQ section or even the home page..
Owner of the world famous?? Pintojeep 3A and one yet to be named stock project 3A.
Based in central TX and upstate NY.

Offline F Bill

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #28 on: February 10, 2014, 10:26:42 AM »
New spider gears won't affect shimming the rest of the diff.
The theory is that dimensionally new bearings should be the same as the old ones so if you reassemble with the same shims you will be at a good starting point. That's why you can use the old bearings for setup. Machining tolerances and wear will change your preload/patterns slightly so you might have to adjust the shim pack to keep the same as it was.

It looked like you have a decent looking wear pattern on the ring gear so hopefully you can recreate that.
Owner of the world famous?? Pintojeep 3A and one yet to be named stock project 3A.
Based in central TX and upstate NY.

Offline Jeff_M

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Re: '51 3A - revisited
« Reply #29 on: February 10, 2014, 03:33:16 PM »
Now you won't be happy until you rebuild the front one.  :-)