1950 CJ3A budget build

[Trenton]

So in my search for a beefier d-41 diff cover a good point was brought up, why beef this stuff up when ultimately I'd hope to change it out for a stronger axle. Well as I said in the beginning there's a plan here to build the best wheeler possible while staying under a set budget. It's a bit of a competition between a buddy and I who also plans the same kind of build under the same budget constraints when both are complete we will take them out and have a bit of a competition or just some fun really... But I'm gonna kick his butt. With some big expenses already on the Willys that yes I maybe could have got away without doing but I really want reliability so I did all the engine and electronics mods/replacements. All that being said I'm gonna run the existing drive train and axles. So I'm gonna replace the rear cover as mine has holes that have been welded up by the PO but it still leaks and I'd also like to run a rear locker.

So here's the plan, try to find a 32" x r16 bias tire for cheap. Clean up existing axles and add rear lock-right locker and beefy covers. I have a plan for steering as I'm not convinced of the longevity of the stock setup for harder wheelin but I'm keeping that to myself until I see how it works out. With all that in place hopefully ready for a Moab trip sept 2016 I'll go and see how she does.

So who has experience with the 41 lasting with a locker and stock engine and 32" tires?

Sorry I can be long winded but I'm away from home now and got a lot of time to plan and surf the net for parts.

[Trenton]

well i have gotten back from overseas so time to get to work on the Willys. takes me 4 flights and 2 days to get to canada from Vietnam, got home yesterday and relaxed then this morning decided to get up early and get to it. i've had time to plan and order parts while i was away so the plan is to swap in a saginaw steering setup. i have never been one to leave well enough alone and i think this steering swap may turn into more than i bargained for but its too late now. steering box and column came out easy enough but the bracket thats welded to the front cross member that the bell crank attaches too...thats a different story. i won't bore you with details but it ended up in about 45 pieces and i went through half a bottle of oxy/acet. ever have one of those days in the shop where stuff just doesn't go your way? well that was today, after i destroyed half the old steering parts getting them out i decided it was time for a break and left the shop. try to get back to it tomorrow. the reasoning behind doing this now is because i realised that before i finish the front bumper i better get the frame boxed and the steering box mounted.

i will have the remaining steering parts to sell for super cheap once i get this together so if anyones needing an original steering box with pitman arm, tie rods (rod ends are loose i imagine so they would need replacing) and drag link then those parts will be available. I'm gonna use the column and the bell crank wouldn't do anyone any good;-)



looks like the fluid hasn't been changed since 1950 in the steering box.

[Ryan_289]

Ive never seen an old one with actual fluid in it.� All the ones ive seen have had a grease fitting installed and packed with grease instead of heavy oil like its supposed to have.

[garage gnome]

That is knuckle pudding right there! The steering knuckles take the same stuff.

[Trenton]

so i am waiting for some steering parts to arrive before i move forward on the saginaw swap and i needed to do seats so i started that today. making a 60/40 split bench. the passenger side seat cushion will flip up to allow access to the tool box. going to make some kind of removable center console i think... I'm sure theres lots of opinions on bench vs original style seats but I've got a young son and his mom and i like the idea of the three of us sitting across the bench.

[garage gnome]

That looks good. What are you going to do for a cover?

[Trenton]

That looks good. What are you going to do for a cover?

i plan to stay sort of original with the cushions and covering. today i will finish the frame, use some 3/4" plywood for the back and bottom and then cut foam to shape and stretch some canvas over it and staple it to the plywood from the bottom. i have an idea to use a waterproof closed cell foam so when the seats get wet the foam doesn't soak up the water.

[Trenton]

well progress has been slower than i hoped. still waiting for some steering components. seat frames are done but not mounted.

completed frame with headrests


removable passenger seat cushion with locking pin


from the rear

[Trenton]

finally got the frame fully mounted and wood rough cut. gonna paint the frame same green as the tub. the passenger seat bottom cushion and frame is not hinged, it just pulls out completely for access to the tool box. I'm thinking about 2" of a medium density foam for butt comfort with 1" of a higher density foam on top of it to prevent just squishing the softer foam flat. and on the back maybe just 2" of medium density foam. i was going to stretch canvas over the foam myself but I'm thinking more and more about getting it professionally done but in keeping with the budget build I'm unsure about that option, need to price it out. one thing that i know i will be splashing out cash on is seat bottom and back rest heaters, hear in the great white north seat heaters are a definite must. 

[garage gnome]

That looks great!

[Trenton]

seats finished! 3 layers of foam laminated together with slot between 1st and second layer for seat heating pad. 5/8 plywood, 2" medium density foam" for comfort, 1" high density foam for support, 3/8" closed cell blue foam for waterproof layer. its just a canvas tarpaulin cut up for cover.
 

[Trenton]

still need to cover headrests in the canvas. i have placed the steering column in and i can still slide in with stock steering wheel in original position. but as i am re-doing the whole steering set up i may change the column and steering wheel location slightly to give more room. i'd hate to have to change to a smaller steering wheel but it is an option if i have to.





still 6" above my head to bikini top

[Trenton]

finally got started on the steering. pulled the whole front off and apart, kinda needed it apart anyway so i can finish the half done paint job.  the rad support/cross member was severely cracked on each side where it was welded to the frame. to clear the new steering shaft i figured easier to just remove that cross member anyway and replace it with something different after i finish the steering setup. so i got a complete steering setup for free (still within budget) by trading some other jeep parts. its from a Jeep YJ 4 cylinder with power steering. yes i said power steering. just gonna give it a try, its been done before but to be honest not sure how well it will work on the little 65 year old 4 cylinder. so I'm boxing the front of the frame, mounting a yj steering box to the inside of drivers side frame right behind the bumper that I'm still building and will make a bracket for the pump that will mount on the engine. anyway enough talk...



i took a bunch of measurements before chopping this out so i can get it square and true again later

[Trenton]

templating for the boxing plate


trial fit. it will fit just inside the factory channel so i can get a good weld on all sides. i will just stitch weld it in i think as the factory boxing plates further back are only stitched and i don't want to make this front section of the frame that much more rigid than the rest of the frame or it may be inviting future cracking. i will put a diamond shaped 1/8" doubler plate over that vertical seam and will probably extend the doubler to where the replacement cross member will be.� i will also be relocating that hard-to flexible-to hard front axle brake line and mount as its right in the path for the steering shaft.

[Trenton]

well i picked up the steering parts late in the day and couldn't wait until tomorrow to see how things fit. so i just went out to the shop and mocked it up.

this is the box as far forward as it can go and dead level.


in this position the front leaf hanger blocks one of the box mounting holes so will probably slide it rearward a bit.


with the current drop pitman arm the drag link is level with what will be the height of the tie rod but i see possible interference issues at full left turn with left side leaf compressed. so i plan to run a straight pitman arm to hopefully avoid that.