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Messages - gmcjr

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UHHH OHHHH, Hawkridge!!!! Is that paint chips I see missing on ODie???  [smiley=cheesy.gif]  ;D  8-)

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I came over here to see what "Hawky" was doing. I have a 3A too you know. I don't descriminate when it comes to Jeeps---LOL.� 8-) Oilly


We'll just say Oily is a Equal Opportunity Jeeper! 

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Oh boy, I guess you guys were right about my smart comments. Went out to go to the store and my jeep is completely gone, looks to be a total existence failure at this point. This is going to be tough to explain to my schotty insurance provider.

-Jesse



Wow, that sucks! Stealing a man's jeep, that could be justifiable homicide.

4
Cool tool wrapper! Now I want one!


Murphy's law #2223

When you break down, the part or tool you need, will be the one on the workbench miles away.

Is there a item number? I can't seem to find on their website, but I never claimed to be smart......

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Good Fix!

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Hey GMC -

What are you using for a spare tire bracket? Is it just the 3A style one or do you have the M38 one with the bottom support as well? I was thinking of adding a 3A one to my M38 tailgate but wasn't sure if it would hold up. I'm thinking there must have been a reason the extra support was added to the M38 ones.


A reproduction M38 one.  :)

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Good find!!
A lot of people mount then on the sides, and such, but here's what I did, I didn't use the tailgate anyways, and don't have to worry about knocking them off with trees.
It's about the same layout as a M38.
FYI,� My finger is only there to hide my plate number, and yes the spare is flat. That happened 30 min before I took the picture, lol!




The M38 tailgate has extra support built in, so yes, it does need backing.
I just used scrap angle iron to build this.



Hope this gives you some ideas!!!

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could be wear on one or more of the parts.

There was some wear, I think some dufus (me) mismatched some parts!

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Looks like someone swapped in a retainer half that didn't match the other one..Probably after they dropped one while doing a valve job and couldn't find it...Good sleuthing to find that one!

It proves just because they are the same part, doesn't mean they are the same, another lesson learned....... Thanks for y'all's input!




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After just doing what ended up being a in frame rebuild, my little willys ran great, but then it devolved a BAD tappet knock. With the engine idling, I noticed if I put sideways pressure on the noisy valve, it became quieter. On a hunch, the valve retainer was swapped with one from my parts engine. Problem solved. This is what the old one looked like.



The valve retainers are uneven, I'm guessing that was causing the spring to rock back and forth just enough to pop. Any thoughts?

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That'll be interesting to see. I can't honestly say the brass I saw was just wear and tear, or result of chemical degrading. One the flip side, gl1 is cheaper. The Scottish in me likes that. :)

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I reckon mines the other side of the spectrum, the transmission in my jeep has not been rebuilt since I've had it.(I'm gonna fathom a guess, by the way it shifts sometimes, that it hasn't been rebuilt as long as I've been on this earth. Btw, thats 30 years. The speedo currently shows 91,000 for what little that's worth.) I put gl5 in it a few years back, ran it probably 5,000 miles. I drained it a month or so ago when a similar thread was posted on the 2a page, the oil had a brassy tint.
I let some drain on my finger and then smeared it on a clean paper towel, there was brassy gleam (edited for better description) to it. It was enough to convince me. Your results may very.

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gmcjr,
 ï¿½Yes, that chart does help. �It helps a lot. �The only thing is, now you've embarrassed me because when Carl sees this I'll be in trouble. �I just hate it when he's right. �(Just kidding.) �
 ï¿½
 ï¿½Seriously, though, this chart has caused me to do a Google study of viscosity classifications (in order to properly understand the chart). �I must admit that it's not the first time I assumed something to be a certain way just to find out it wasn't that way at all. �I remember my dad quoting an old German friend, "So soon vee get old. So late vee get smart."

 ï¿½So, my conclusion will be, as I go though my Jeep preparation for this summer's drives, I will inspect the transmission gear oil for metalic flecks. �If there are any I will drain it and install straight mineral oil, most likely aviation 50 wt. non-detergent, uncompounded engine oil.

 ï¿½I have saved the chart where it will be available for easy access in the future. �Thanks again, I really do appreciate the "education".


Glad I was able to help!!
This is what I use now, after seeing the error of my ways.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg%3B-ford-tractor-all-mineral-90-transmission-fluid-2-gal
its cheap enough!!!!!

I knew about the yellow metal issue from working on tractors, but big dummy me didn't put two and two together on my jeep transmission until a couple months ago after reading about it on the 2a page. �


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The 30 wt engine oil is about equivalent to the 90 wt mineral oil. I still use the GL4-5 in the front and rear axles.
Carl, I may be the only one needing an education here, but help me understand 30 wt engine oil being about the same viscosity as 90 wt mineral oil. �When we were on this topic last go around a month or two ago I mentioned I would like to use straight mineral (non-detergent uncompounded) aviation engine oil, which comes in 40 and 50 wt. �I was under the impression that viscosity ratings applied equally to all lubricating oils. �

Maybe this will help,


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The spark plugs are 14mm...

And so why are they metric...? The early manufacturer of the spark plug, Albert Champion, was French.....


Thanks! Was always curious!

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Small update, finally had a break to work on the willys again, after removing the rest of the pistons, number 1 and 2 also has broken rings� � >:(.




Still don't really know why.....



Finally got it warm in my little garage, us Texans ain't built for this cold stuff...



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