Ryan_M wrote on 01/05/16 at 22:19:11:

Not to sound stupid but what does it oil? Thanks

Trying to educate myself on these CJ3A's so I searched it and saw what it does. Right now my distributor is frozen hard so I need to get it freed up.

Quote:

I had the linkage for the idle screw on wrong so I cut it off and put it where it should be so I could idle it down.

Now I’m concerned. Please post a photo of this area?

  The ignition timing may very well be off, but if it was off enough to cause the engine to not run it would be off ALL the time, and the engine would not run at all. The timing can not be "close enough" for the engine to run, then change after a minute or two, and cause the engine to die.
  Check the things that have been suggested:
  Fuel delivery- "drawing out of a five-gallon can" or words to that effect - A clean can? Drawing from the bottom, or siphoning over the top? You must be using a piece of hose, is it connected to steel line or hose-barbs anywhere, and is it air-tight? Is the hose large enough, and not kinked or twisted, etc?
  Condenser - it can be tested, but no one has the equipment to test one anymore, so the only test is to substitute a known good one. And a new one may not be good. Great, huh? This has been a big problem lately. If you have another vehicle with a condenser, or know someone who does, maybe you can borrow one. A good, "wrong" condenser will be better than a "right", bad one.
  Coil? again, about the only way to test is to substitute a known good one, or you could check for spark immediately after the engine shuts down. Ballast resistor - Could expand with heat and open a poor connection. See if it still passes current after shut-down.
  Don't worry about timing now. It's OK part of the time, it's OK all the time. Get this thing to run continuously, then check the timing.   BW

Finally got it fixed. This morning I went and got a new coil with a internal resistor and a new condensor and points in case these were fried. Also got new fuel line from pump to carb with a see thru filter so I could see it pump. I also ran a 3/8 new rubber line to the gas can. I runs like a sewing machine now. After thinking about it last night I noticed it ran better when cold and acted up after running a few minutes which from messing with newer cars told me something electrical was breaking down once it got warm. I am not sure which one of these fixes actually fixed it but I think it was the coil with the external ballast resistor causing the problem. From what I understand these need to be matched up for proper operation. Not knowing the ohms of the coil or the resister since they came from a national parts store I had no idea what they were.
I really want to thank all of you guys for helping me and each of you helped a lot. Special thanks to Scoutpilot for his patience with a rookie like myself and his input. He is surely one of the best on this subject. God bless you all! Really great people.

Thanks Carl.