Is there a trick to removing the distributor?  From the manual, it seems it should just slide out after the bolt(s) that hold it in are removed.  (There's that little plate under it--it moves underneath the dizz when its bolt is out, but the dizzy's going nowhere...)

It shouldn't need the oil pump out first, should it?

Am I missing something, or does it just need more muscle?  If more muscle is the answer, how to apply it without damaging something?

Thanks,

-Paul

One of those strap-style oil filter wrenches may help too. I've only ever removed one distributor that was stuck bad like that and I destroyed it in the process. Be careful.

Pretty sure I tried a strap wrench, and I know I put penetrating oil on it.  I'll reapply more...

Funny thing is that everything else came off the block really easily.  Not a single stuck bolt or head nut.  (Haven't tried pulling the head studs, though.)  Nothing even needed extra effort.  I did put penetrating oil on everything a couple days before I started wrenching, though.

Can I pull the oil pump with the distributor still in place.  I would guess so--please let me know if I'm wrong!

Thanks,

-Paul

Heating the block works good for me. Medium heat with a torch on that bulged out area of the block is usually enough to break them loose.

Been here too many times. Be careful, you can break the cast body of the distributor. Soaking it all you can is a must. I've had to actually drill one out, the stem was rusted solid all the way to the bottom. Others came with patience and lots of soaking. One trick that worked was to install a large ring gear / radiator type hose clamp on the body and missing the data tag tap with a hammer on it back and forth. If it moves, you will win the battle by tapping and soaking. Driving up from the bottom with the oil pump removed sometimes works, but also can shear the roll pin. Heat may help get the penetrant in also. Good luck to you and I hope you get it. John