I have been battling a small leak around the new water pump that persistently and quite annoyingly results in coolant blowing all over the passenger side of the engine every time I drive it.



Grill, radiator, and water pump removed. Water pump mating surfaces cleaned, threaded holes in block cleaned up. New water pump gasket, sealant, and bolts torqued to spec. I wish there was a good way to test for leaks besides putting everything back together and driving it. With the radiator out it's a good chance to clean up some of those places that are impossible to reach otherwise.



I drove over 3500 miles last summer which was its first full season on the road. After about 3000 miles I started experiencing an occasional death wobble. The steering was rebuilt almost entirely during the initial rebuild - new steering box innards, bell crank kit, tie rod ends, connecting rod kit, etc. Pretty much everything but the king pin bearings. Time to take care of those.

It's amazing how crummy brand new brake hardware can look after only a year. I'll do a better job painting everything before it is reinstalled.


Knuckles on their way out.






You can see 3 out of 4 races are pretty badly worn. That makes the effort worthwhile. It'd be a little discouraging if I found no wear!





Axle in a bag.



This is a slippery slope. I'm not wanting to open up the differential and attack it too but that all-too-familiar saying "Well, you've gone this far..." is creeping back into my head. We'll see whether or not I listen to it.

Bill wrote on 01/27/14 at 01:18:37:

Lots of NH mud. Did I roll the Jeep upside down in bog and not remember it?

Find two pipes that fit your radiator hoses. Buy pipe caps for them. Drill and tap both, one for a Schrader valve, and the other for a pressure gage. Install one in each radiator hose, then use a tire pump to pressurize your cooling system to 2-5 lbs above your cap rating. Now, you can look for leaks without the engine running or the radiator installed.

You can use the same setup, with short pieces of radiator hose or the whole hoses from your jeep, to test a radiator.

There are commercial pressure testers, but the adapter to a jeep size cap might be hard to find nowadays and you'll spend plenty just buying the set.

If the radiator is in already you can use a tee off a heater hose to do a similar thing. Or pop the upper hose off and use the pipe, this time with your gage and Schrader valve installed in the side wall of the pipe, and an additional short piece of radiator hose to complete the circuit back to where you pulled the hose from.

If you have ever done a whole house plumbing pressure check for the building inspector it is the same sort of deal. Just less pressure. Too much and you'll bust the radiator or heater core.

Ryan,
You're having too much fun.  I'm throwing the red flag and asking for a review.

'Upon further review, repairs to two different Willys at the same time is not fair.  That will be a 10 yard penalty and loss of down.'

Tim

Ryan_M wrote on 01/27/14 at 16:38:46:



My bad , Ryan.  I'm hopeful that you'll be rooting for the Broncos to beat the Hawks this weekend.

I thought I was the only one doing lists.  Mine is a little more high tech than yours.  Excel spreadsheet! Has additional notes including tools, materials, and potential suppliers/vendors for said items.  It also includes web site addresses.  Once the listed item is complete, I change the font color to RED.  Who's the kook now?

I really enjoyed following the progress on your fist build.  It's good to see Old Grey again.  BTW, did you ever give it an official name?


Tim

Lists?

Normally in pencil, scribbled on any available piece of paper, usually a packing list from Walck's or similar. Each item scratched out as it's completed or abandoned.

List is typically lost before completion...

But then I make a new list.....

Holy Cow Look at those RED wheels!!