Page Index Toggle Pages: 1 Print
Normal Topic Brake light swith adjustment (Read 1046 times)
 
macrisel
Flatfender Master
Owner Member 2012
*****
Offline


Always in the middle of
a project

Posts: 639
Location: Puxico, MO
Joined: 10/18/10
Gender: Male
Brake light swith adjustment
04/09/13 at 19:15:37
Print Post  
So I have my wiring harness in and everything appears to be working.  I did notice one thing though when I was driving around my yard.  My brake light switch is extremely sensitive and will activate the brake lights with just the SLIGHTEST bounce.

Do I need to back my plunger out on the master cylinder a little bit?
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
garage gnome
Flatfender Master
2013 Sponsor Member
*****
Offline


Rustologist

Posts: 1931
Location: Chester
Joined: 02/16/12
Gender: Male
Re: Brake light swith adjustment
Reply #1 - 04/09/13 at 21:03:59
Print Post  
You could have an air bubble in the switch.
  

Nate in Western MA 1953 3A #3268, The Jalopy, '47 2A Wheelin' rig, '49 3A, #37071, unmolested, bone stock named Ted
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
calvinhunt
Flatfender Master
Owner Member 2012
*****
Offline


Let's keep these great
American icons alive!

Posts: 1000
Location: Santa Clara, Utah
Joined: 08/02/09
Gender: Male
Re: Brake light swith adjustment
Reply #2 - 04/10/13 at 05:56:11
Print Post  
My brake light switch takes a fair amount of brake fluid pressure to activate it.  If a bump in the road does it I would suspect a short.
  

Calvin
Santa Clara, Utah
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
macrisel
Flatfender Master
Owner Member 2012
*****
Offline


Always in the middle of
a project

Posts: 639
Location: Puxico, MO
Joined: 10/18/10
Gender: Male
Re: Brake light swith adjustment
Reply #3 - 04/15/13 at 17:00:48
Print Post  
Thanks guys.  I made it back out the the shop this weekend and had a chance to play with the switch.  Turns out, I did just have to back the rod out of the master cylinder quite a bit.  I had put the new master cylinder on when I only had the chassis finished three years ago.  By the time I added the aftermarket tub (with the firewall angle slightly different), and the draft pads both my clutch and brakes were too tight and had to be backed off.

Imagine my suprise when I tried to pull my jeep out of the shop after a year and it wouldn't move!  The engine started just fine but when you let out on the clutch nothing moved.  After a brief fit (maybe not so brief) I crawled under the jeep and saw the clutch wasn't releasing all the way.. Roll Eyes  I readjusted the clutch and all is right with the world.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Print
Bookmarks: Facebook Google Google+ Linked in Twitter Yahoo