Replacing 2nd gear did not solve my problem.  I read on one of the forums that replacing the synchro hub assembly solved the problem for another Willys guy, so I ordered a new one. 

Finally had enough energy to pull the drive train apart again.  I have it down to a science.  Remove temporary seating.  Drop drive shafts.  Remove clutch and brake pedal linkage shaft.  Remove shifter and tie off the tranny shaft.  Drain tranny.  Pull TC back cover and gear.  Remove TC.  Pull tranny main shaft...all in just under 18 minutes.  I'm not bragging.  Just pointing out how good you get when you keep screwing up.


I compared the old to new.   There's nothing left of the chevrons.  The're just nubs.

Old...


New...




I was shocked about how badly warn the old one is.  I'm finally beginning to understand what to look for when rebuilding a transmission.  I just wish I didn't have to take it apart six times to figure it out.

Should have it all back together for another test run this weekend.

Tim

I know what you mean Tim, I'm like a well choreographed solo team when it comes to dropping that thing.  Sorry you had to dig in again.  After all this, you will so in tune with your gears and while shifting, you will 'see' what is going on and what is moving where.
Did you shim the clearance of the input and output shafts?  It will give you more peice of mind knowing that there is more engagement of the collar to 2nd gear.  I'll let you borrow my honed out rear bearing if you'd like.

Brett

It's technically not endplay as when you button up the rear gear and nut, there is no movement.  Its just the ending clearance between the in/out shafts.
I got my shims out of a rebuild set from a Dana 30 axle I did long long ago.  I tend not to throw stuff out.....ya never know.  The OD matched but I had to open up the ID.
I bet if you find an axle shop in your area they'd offer ya some for cheap.  Just get a good mix so you can get the right combo.

Tim you certainly are resourceful....I would never have looked in a hardware store for shim material...

I hope you have 100,000 miles of smooth trouble free shifting!

(My transmission is getting noticeably smoother at just over 1000 miles.....)

I’m happy to report that the transmission repairs are behind me. (Slipping out of 2nd gear after a rebuild)  I don’t know if this problem was solved by replacing the synchronizer hub, adding the shim to keep the output shaft more forward, or a combination of both.  What ever it was, the thing is shifting like a Swiss watch.

I wish I didn’t get stalled by this issue, but at the same time, I learned a lot.  And at the end of the day, that makes it a win, win situation.

Thank you to all that helped me learn about the T-90 transmission.

I don’t have any photos of this success, so I thought I’d post a flash back photo.

Tim

Cool Tim, a nice hurdle to be over and like you said knowledge gained.  I love seeing your updates on this project.  Keep at it and stay warm.

So, new troubles...

I had a very slight rumble right when I add throttle. It sounded like it was coming from the bell housing.  I found a balancing shop here in Denver, so I took it all apart...again.

The Flywheel and pressure plate were balanced.  He removed 1/2 once from the flywheel and added 3/4 once to the pressure plate.  I didn't have the correct shouldered bolts required to mount the pressure plate either.  Once I got the correct bolts, I put the whole mess together...again.

Balancing the system is a good thing.  It reduces engine wear, but it did not get rid of the rumble.  I retarded the timing a small amount (maybe 1-2°) and the rumble went away.

(Bretto, did you notice I used your "alt..248" trick?)

I've read that at Colorado elevation, retarding the timing a bit helps improve performance.  I don't know if this is true, but it did get rid of the rumble.

In the mean time, my Carter WO decided it no longer wants to hold an idle. So now, I'm fighting through this issue.

Does anyone else get the feeling that the repairs on our Willys Jeeps will never end?

No good photos of this experience, so I thought I'd show you guys something crazy.  This Willys had a PTO shifter that was modified to drive a winch on the front of the Willys...





In this photo, you can see the shafts and a few knuckles heading toward the front of the Willys...



It ends at the front bumper...



And this is what it was all attached to...



The chains are long gone, and I have no idea if this set up ever worked.  If it did, I'm convinced it helped tear the Willys to pieces.

Tim

That is quite a PTO set-up...imagine all those chains and the debris they'd collect....but someone did a lot of old fashioned engineering....

By the way Tim,

My engine over a short period of time went from idling fine to not idling at all, backfiring and just generally being obstinate...

I immediately suspected the carburetor and spent hours trouble-shooting...

It turned out the new points had worn where the rub-block rides on the dist cam and the point gap had closed to the point where the engine would run but fire randomly...re-setting the gap solved the problem.

The WO was just fine all along......