While I groaned reading this I would have groaned louder if you already has the tub back on before you discovered these problems. There's a reason you've been driving around the neighborhood like a wild-man in your open wheeled contraption. You wanted to shake out any issues and you did. I'll be waiting patiently for the update on the resolution.

Check your PM's btw. You have a dusty one sitting there.

Ryan

Mark, Ryan,

Knowing that you are the two fellas that have the most recent  experience with transmission rebuilds, I was hoping to hear from you on this.  I may be leaning on you both once the parts arrive.  Hopefully that's okay.

Tim

My transmission is leaking on all the gaskets and seals I thought didn't need replaced.  It is doing the same as yours while shifting.  I am rebuilding another to put in.

It will be interesting to see if we have the same things to correct.

Yep as my Mom would say (she is Dutch)  Smooth as a Kinder's Popo. 

Randy,
Yes...eBay...a nice fellow from Greece.  He had listed NOS  rings, but didn't mention the country of origin.  I wanted two sets if they were USA parts.

I contacted him to ask.  I mentioned my concerns about offshore parts.  He said the set for sale was made in India, and these rings have been well tested in the Mahindra Jeeps.  He felt they were every bit as good as the US made rings.  Turns out, he had USA stuff too.  We negotiated... We agreed that he would send me a set of each.  I also have a set coming from the offshore supplier.  Omix?  Crown?  Who knows.  I intend on comparing them all...side by side. I'm no metalurgist, but I will inspect and measure them.  Should be interesting.

Tim 

Hi Tom,
She wants a pale yellow.  She picked a color.  I sprayed an old hood.  She thought it was too pale...almost cream.  I liked it.  She didn't.  We're close, but the search continues.

Thanks for looking in!

Tim

PS: Good idea on posting to specific section.  If it ends up being kind of interesting, I'll post the info in the new "Gear Boxes" section.

A short, but painful update.  Well, not too painful.  The transmission rebuild went well.  The new pressure plate, clutch, and bushing were installed also.  I re-installed the drivetrain and my temporary seating.  Time for a test drive.

The engine fired right up.  I attempted to slide her into 1st gear...and...grrrr grr gr....gear grind.  The clutch would not disengage.  I diddled around with the clutch cable for half a day.  Nothing I did helped.

I finally realized that the drivetrain needed to be pulled again.  Anyone else notice how good you get at stuff like this when you have to do it two or three times in a row?

Anyway, after reading a bunch of threads, I found that any of a number of things can cause this.  Not wanting to have to pull the drivetrain again, (3 times was enough) I decided to address every possible issue. The result of this choice is that I have no idea what my original problem was.

I installed a new pivot fulcrum and clutch fork.  The new clutch disc had a very slight warp. The old disc was, well, pretty new, so I put it back in.  The bushing was pulled, then slid onto the input shaft.  It seemed a little tight, so I reamed it out a bit. 

I re-installed the drive train and my temp seating. I fired up the engine, then pushed in the clutch. I let out a sigh of relief, then took the chassis for a spin. 

Everything went fairly well except shifting into 2nd gear.  Synchros work great, but the shifter just won't throw the gear far enough to keep it engaged.  It just barely catches, but occasionally slips out. 

I inspected the shift fork and found some decent wear groves on both sides of the fork.  The wear is even, but I am missing 3/64" of material.  I don't know if this is enough to cause my problem, but I decided to get a new fork anyway.  I will also trim some material from the poppet groove, as described in the Willys memo we have all seen recently.

This will probably be the last project I do on Whitey for a while.  In preparation for the Fall Colors Tour, I have a number of small projects planned for the OD Willys.  New brake shoes, valve adjustment, new fuel pump, oil change, etc...

Tim

Hi Kirk,
I brought a photo forward so folks would know what we're talking about...






I used a 3/8" corse thread die to cut the threads.  It was a little tricky.  I grabbed onto the head with a vise grip, then used the die to cut the thread.  The metal is fairly soft, so cutting threads works pretty well, but it was pretty easy to dig into the head with the vise grip.  I tried to only grab the head hard enough to hold the rivets from spinning but still cut the threads with the die.  If you look closely at the photo, you can see some notches left by the vise grip.  When I did dig into the edges a little too much, I cleaned the head up with a file.

Hope this helps.

Tim