It was suggested that I start a thread to get some opinions on whether I should buy a truckload of repair panels or a replacement tub....Now I've read several threads on the tubs and realize they too require lots of work. The trouble with the repair panels is that I have little welding experience, and no welder...I'm willing to learn..but first some pictures..

Realize that what you are looking at on the floors is the first replacement panel that has rusted through. In the case of the drivers side there are three layers of floor...The tool box is welded over as is the riser and the area behind the seats....Frame has no rust through and appears solid.

I've been told that photobucket will no  longer host third party pictures...and that may mean those posted in this thread..so if you see no pictures that is why....updated 7/3/2017

Randy,
You and I find ourselves in a similar position.  We both have tubs that are very rough.  I am normally the type that would encourage you to work on your welding skills.  A nice little wire feed is easy to use and quite handy beyond a Willys.  I did this level of work on my first 3A.  Tub repair added a full year to my 2 year build.  If you are in no hurry, improve your welding skills and repair your tub.  There is a huge batch of self satisfaction waiting for you.  

On the other hand, if patience is not in your cards and you have fairly deep pockets, a replacement tub may be a better choice.  As you have read, there will be work to do, but no where near as much.

Perhaps you can find an original doner tub that is in better condition than yours.  The draw back here is you will still, most likely, have work to do.  And it make take some time to find one.  

I have a Willys to drive now, so the decision is easy.  I have decided to look for a doner tub.  

You've got a nice CJ5 to drive, and many other 3A micro projects to tackle.  You could look for a tub while you fix other sub-groups.  

I know...I didn't help at all.  

Tim  

I think deep down I agree with you guys.  Going after it step by step and getting a few solid parts in there to build on might be the way to go. I'll need a welder either way, so I should get that first. Then maybe a nibbler or a 4 1/2" grinder or probably both. Worst case is I'll cut away the rust and not find enough steel to work with.

I think floor boards should be first and then work back from there. I can't  separate the body from the frame as I think I'll end up with two or more sections.. right now I have sort of a fixture to hold things in place while adding new parts...

I know there have been worse jeeps that have been brought back...

One thing you might consider is using the general shape of the old parts to make simpler versions of the new parts out of slightly heavier steel.. Leaving out the stiffening ribs, substituting more bracing under the bed floor, etc, can get you a good useable tub that is no longer stock but functions well, for a lot less than a new tub.

I wouldn't get too worried about cutting your tub apart to rebuild it. If your dash, cowl top, and firewall are good, you can build the rest.  It is in teh making thaings exactly like original that the expense comes. If you aren't fussy you can still have a good looking jeep for a lot less. (Leaving the tailgate out ala the WWII and DJ tubs will save a bunch of time too.)

So, ten minutes with a drill and the first layer is out. The second layer is held in with bucked rivets so it may not come out so easily....the heavier panel is held in with a bolt..I'm nearing the point-of-no-return..

And the spiral deep space willys nebula...

I think at this point you should start looking at what body panels you can get and the total price of the panels you will need. Then look at the prices of a repo tub and compare the prices. Then remember that you will have to put all those panels in your current tub. Now you have to decide is it worth rebuilding your tub compared to buying a tub and modifying it to work for you.

Consider buying the cowl sides with steps, the quarter panels, and a solid rear panel from classic, and making all the wheelhouse and floor pieces yourself. You will have the option to make your own length wheelhouses to allow whatever size seat you want that way. THe floor can be all built with 16 gage or even thin diamond plate, and hat channels can be made with tubing.

For a similar made from nothing jeep see Mike Gardner's build thread over on the 2A page. He built a 45 from a badly rotted tub, and it came out great!

EDIT... four side panels from Classic are $720.  The rear panel is $4xx or so. You can make your own rear panel for that.  Their rear floor is $270, Omix gets $350 but theirs includes the riser. THe rear floor is a simple box, with ribs, If you don't need the ribs you can use 16 gage to build it and spend a lot less. You could buy a bead roller and dies to make your own but it isn't quite that simple as rolling 8 ribs in, as it will get all warped if you don't prestretch where the ribs go.
SECOND EDIT:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-winter-project-built-my-own-tub_topic21822....

Check out Phil's tub building adventure....No Classic parts involved!

Here is Mike Gardners tub rebuild , scattered over the first ten pages or so..

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/7-years-of-work-a-lifetime-of-fun_topic6702_pa...

Ihope you have seen the tub rebuilding FAQ.... http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tub-rebuilding-information-thread_topic21836.h...; That reminds me I need to cut and paste that one over here..