I took some measurements of the holes in the tub floor, and drew up my findings.
These are the steering column, gas pedal, dimmer switch and pedal shaft holes. Anybody know of a definitive drawing showing these details?



This is my first pass at this and will most likely be updated once I look at everything again.
My steering column hole is already in and will help locate the other holes.

Once I finalize a design I can attempt to cut the holes.  For the pedal shaft holes I think I’ll lay it out, prick punch the centers and use a hole saw to start with.
I’ll need to saw two overlapping holes to get the oval shape. I’ll saw most of the way through and move 5/16”  off center and saw that hole which will remove
my center  for the other half so I’ll have to finish it with a carbide bur. The other holes I’ll use a speed bit.



Steve

My plan worked. I‘m glad to have this behind me.







Steve

Mark-  Nice to hear you were able to make it all work for you.  At times I’ve had my doubts that I’ll get it to fit. I've had the tub on and off at least 10 times so far.

Now that you are in the paint stage I consider you one of those knowledgeable Jeep guys here on the 3A page.  I have a fit up question. Did you have to move the hat channel (floor support) that needs a hole drilled in it at the driver side floor position? This would be the one that runs up by the master cylinder.  Mine is off by about 3/8” or so. I’m trying to make up my mind.  Do I hog out the hole or move the hat channel?  The purist in me wants to move the hat channel and the Bubba in me wants to hog the hole out.



Steve

CJPilot wrote on 01/02/13 at 13:37:22:


I think Calvin moved the body mount on the frame when he ran into this problem.

Steve,
 Bob W is right in his post above, I moved the body mount (outrigger) on the frame (a couple of places on both left and right sides).  However, mine were off by a little more than an inch.  Had they only needed to be opened up 1/4 inch I'm sure I would have done just that.  

 In the photo below you can see how far I moved outrigger mount.  You can see that I pilot-drilled just a bit too far into the rivet originally retaining the mount to the frame. Then I drilled the two rivet heads just enough to remove mount.  Any deeper and I may have drilled into the holes of the outrigger possibly elongating them. With the outrigger removed I ground the rest of the rivet shanks flush with the frame (or meant to).  With the outrigger mount clamped to the frame aligned just where I wanted it I match-drilled the hat channel through the outrigger, bolted it to the tub, and then match-drilled the two holes in the frame through the outrigger and mounted it with two AN aircraft bolts.  

 Another location with similar solution.

My next issue to fix is the passenger side fender.  It’s primer doesn’t look like the tub or drivers side fender. I'm not sure what that means if anything.   It sits low in the back where it bolts to the tub.

Passenger Side





Drivers side



Steve

Steve,
Do you have the body mount rubber in position?  If so, you may want to try a thinner mount at the tub to help align it with the fender.  I've read that the original thickness of the mounts varied on these depending on the mount position.  I started with 4 ply tire sidewalls cut to size.  All were about the same thickness, but I did have to adjust the thickness up or down, here or there, to get everything to line up.  It wasn't very scientific.  

If the rubber is not in position yet, and you're already this far off, you will likely have to enlarge the mounting holes on the fender support, and maybe at the three mounting holes... fender to tub...to move the fender up.

Tim

I Found a pretty reasonable body mount. I bought a 10 inch long straight roller for a boat trailer.  It comes with the 1/2 inch diameter hole in the center and you can cut it to any thickness on a band saw lor hack saw. This way you can easily adjust body height and its cheap, about 8 bucks I think.