Build the jeep completely, and I mean completely! That's what I did with mine and it made it look soo much better after paint. That way, you are not afraid to cut/beat/drill/weld on it.

I just looked at your profile, you're in central MA? I'm in Western MA. If you ever want, you are more than welcome to come check out my '53 or my very original '49!

Bill -  The primer looks OK on the tub and right fender. The passenger fender is more of a glossy finish and doesn’t seem as good. I have not looked at the tail gate or windshield yet.  I have not tried sanding anything so time will tell if this primer is actually adhering to the substrate.   In a previous job I painted equipment, mostly with DuPont Centari and Imron.  I used to use a self etching primer on bare metal. The spot welds have a fair amount of expulsion and I’ve cut myself while running my hand down the side of the Jeep looking for any waves in the panels.   They are not perfect but for an old Jeep, to run around with, I don’t think I’ll be doing and straightening of the panels.

The gauge holes are good (but they would be EZ to fix if needed).  I will be taking a better look at the transmission cut out today.

The emergency brake support behind the Dash Panel is in the way of the foot starter hole (which is missing)  I had to cut the bracket out in order to put the hole in. I’m going to try using my original bracket. I do agree for a resto upgraded Jeep a lot of these things would not be a problem.

GG – I’d like to take a look at you Jeeps’ sometime.  The only thing I have to look at for help right now is 2 very rusted examples and a lot of the details are eaten away by salt. Maybe you could PM me with some contact info.


Steve

Hi Steve,

I measured mine.  Original 1949 3A tub.  Reproduction gas tank from Walcks.

Using a tape measure in your same location, I get 6 1/8" to the lower edge of the flange of the filler neck.  I get 6 3/4" to the top of the flange where it starts to bend.  These measurements don't appear to be too far from yours.

My tank measurement from the wall of the Willys to the center of the bolt head on the hold down is 13 1/16".  The biggest difference I noticed is the distance between the edge of my tank and the wall of the Willys...1 1/8".  It's a little hard to tell, but yours looks like it's a bit over 2".  I can't say that mine is correct, but the repro tank lined up just fine.  

Do you have the anti-squeak material under the tank?  This would raise the tank a little, allow you to move the tank closer to the wall, and center the tank neck in the filler hole opening.

Tim

Thank you Tim and GG for the input.  Now that I think about it I guess the best measurement would be from the inside floor to the bottom of the filler neck opening.  My tub is not what you’d consider the same as an original, it seems like everything is off 3/8” to an inch.  I plan on changing the filler opening with my original.  I tried setting my tank on some ¾” wood, for spacing,  but the filler neck still (just barley) hit the opening.  I kind of think it should be centered in the opening. How thick is the anti-squeak ?  


Had to get out my spot weld cutter. I have not used it for all most 25 years.  


Once I figure out were my filler opening should go I'll plug weld it in place.


Steve

The repo emergency brake support is not made anything like the original.  So I cut both my original one and the new and improved repo one out .  By the way, its not a lot of fun.


Repo on the bottom


I positioned the original bracket in my new tub, drilled the bottom mounting holes and then welded the upper in place. That set up the hole location for the emergency brake cable in the fire wall.  Of course the repo tub hole is not even close, so I drilled a new one. That left me with one extra hole and neither one in the proper location.




A couple of plugs




Welded in, Ground flush, New hole drilled, Then add some juice



This is more like my original tub





Steve

CJPilot wrote on 12/30/12 at 03:03:43:


Can you post a photo of the front of your fuel tank?