I just noticed that my air horn is rubbing away some of the paint on the underside of the hood.
That came about because i'm not exactly happy with the way my engine has been running.  So I've begun to investigate carb rebuild kits and noticed that my carb is a WO except the model numbers if that's what you want to call them are 146-249.  Also my carb has a dull aluminum finish and not the gold look that I guess is typical.  My CJ3a is a 1953
I'm using a new air horn from Walcks and the carb to intake gasket with the metal ceter piece.

If i switch out to another carb would that address the rubbing?

-John

Or some one put an extra gasket under the carb base

Just as a reference.



Larry

Terry,

The idea is to get the cleanest air from the air cleaner into the carb.  Dirty air will contribute to more internal crud, thus shorter equipment life.

I always try to look back at why the original engineers would have done something.  They always have a reason.  They thought it needed a seal, so they added it to the system.

I have a reproduction like Rocketeer shows in his photo.  Mine is falling apart after just one year.  (Cheap rubber).  You could grab a bicycle tire tube and cut yourself a quick seal that would probably last the life of the Willys.

Tim

Can you post a picture of the setup?

scoutpilot wrote on 03/11/13 at 08:19:51:

I'm presently in Arizona.  When I get home I'll try to find a photo already taken.  If not, the next time I drive my Jeep I'll try to remember take one to show the motorcycle inner tube seal.  I drive my Jeep once a month during the winter just to keep it limbered up.

Tim responded here to an earlier question raised by terryb: How important is the air horn to carb rubber seal?

The Rocketeer posted a couple pics of one.

athawk11 wrote on 03/09/13 at 14:11:18:


scoutpilot asked for a photo of how I use a motorcycle tube to seal the air horn.  I took my Jeep out today and that gave me a chance to meet his request.  You can see that I used the motorcycle tube to seal between the crossover tube and the air horn.  It was installed 5 years ago and has not deteriorated at all.  



Another photo with the clamp removed.  Even though this doesn't duplicate the original design in appearance it surely seals better than the cheap rubber ones now available that fall apart in a year or less.  



Where the seal in question goes I used no seal at all.  After installing one of the cheap rubber reproduction seals which didn't last even a year, I studied it out like this.  The air horn fits snugly over the carb.  There are four relief slits in the air horn lip.  Those slits are closed by the carb itself when the air horn is all the way down. Take a look.







With the horn all the way down and a stainless steel worm clamp tightly installed, I believe I have a better seal than can be obtained by the reproduction rubber seal even before it deteriorates.