Hey Carl,
I took my block to a guy that makes a living building race engines.  He wanted to put cam bearings in as well cause thats what he does.  Same problem, his boring macine did not have the depth to do the cam seats.  We ended up accepting what Mr. Willys intended, which is pushing enough oil up there to flaot the cam.  So far ,so good.
Todd

I haven't heard from the shop about my block yet, however, I have been busy pulling the engine, putting it on the cheap Horrible Freight engine stand for 750 lbs. that I had to modify some to mount the block as it's not designed for a 4 cyl inline. I will make some permanent changes later but it will do for now.

There is very little cyl wear on this block so the pistons came out easy.

When I pulled the rods the bearing halves looked real good with no worn through spots or streaking on them and looked to have even wear top and bottom through out. When I pulled crank the bottom halves were good looking with no streaking or wear but the top halves are another story. The top half shells had dirt deposits on them right at the top center and that told me the bearing clearance was to much and/or the oil seldom got changed. The rods and mains are .010" undersize.

I then measured the rod journals and found them to be 1.9280"-.9286" and should be 1.9265"-.9275". So, the rod journals were ground slightly over size. I will plastigauge the bearings to be sure of the running clearances that they are in spec.

I measured the main journals and they ran 2.3232"-.3233" and should be 2.3231"-.3241". Since the thrust is downward the lower shell usually shows more wear but there was none. The dark area on the center top shell is probably from the excess clearance and dirty oil. The mains are on the low side of spec. and they will be plastigauged. The pan has a good amount of sludge in it alluding to the fact the oil was seldom changed.

The spare crank is also .010" under and is closer to to the tolerances than the crank in my current engine. There is a possibility I will use the spare crank if I don't like the bearing gap. The oil pressure was always on the high side so the pump is probably good. I found out many of the American bearing, rings and piston companies still make them for these Jeeps and are reasonably priced. American parts will go in this engine if I can get them and so far I can.

So far, installing cam bushings in all four bores is an Urban Legend because Carl Walcks said he knows of no one that can or has done it except for the retired machinist he knew. If the spare block is close to spec it will get used and this cracked block will be saved for experimentation. I talked to my friend in Springfield Mo and he said stiching the block is a piece of cake and I may take it with me when I him visit and we will repair that cyl. if that's the only crack. His cam line boring tool is not small enough to do this block so I will have to make my own. He will loan me a drive unit.

I have started taking photo's of this job and will post a few as it goes along. Here's one of parts and pieces.

Carl, remember if you're going to Springfield, MO the Midwest Willys show in Jefferson City, MO is usually in September sometime.

Good luck with the engine rebuild, that was the funnest part for me (sure beats body work... )

Last week I was told the block is checked and has a small crack between the oval water hole in the center of the block to a bolt hole. The shop said that is not a real issue and Walcks said the same thing about the crack. I will pick up the block when they have the parts I ordered from them. I also ordered from Walcks and Auto Zone so I could spread the wealth around and get the best prices. It is next to impossible to get NOS parts for a rebuild now without spending a lot of time which I don't have. When I get the block I will have to replace the valve guides, bore the cylinders .020" over and grind the valve seats before I can start assembling the engine.

I found out my lube pump is an aftermarket pump with two spur gears instead of the Willys stock pump. I like the aftermarket pump better and Walcks said they may have a cover gasket. If not I will have to make my own gasket.

Carl,
Are those cracks going from the coolant passage to the head bolts holes?  Its hard to tell, but if that is the case then the coolant will have no place to go, provided they don't bleed across the head gasket to the piston.  Can you clarify that position?
Todd

This is an interesting situation, Carl.  I'll put my full ignorance on display here...wouldn't you want to stick this block in a freezer before you try to fill those cracks?  Wouldn't they open up from the cold so that you could get more sealant in there?  I know from a lot of years of crack filling roads, it was best to do it in the winter when it is cold outside.  Just a question here...I know very little about cracked blocks.

Carl, try this:
Clean up the area around the crack really good with a high volitile cleaner, even rubbing alchoholw ill work but its a little slow.  You want all the grease and oil gone.  When its dry you can put a Kroil or other penetrating oil on it, but just a little, use an eye dropper.  Let that sit for about 2 minutes and wipe the surfaces with a clean rag with a little cleaner on it.  Don't soak it.  when it dries shake some talcom powder over the area.  The talc will pull the oil out of the crack and you will be able to look down the holes and see how deep the crack goes.  Or maybe your buddy at the machine shop has a "liquid Penetrant test kit"  This is the same technique with kitchen tools.
Todd