Hello from Colorado

[DaveG]

Well my trusty wire brush found the numbers on the engine.  They are near the bottom on the right hand side.  They are...

1-26   641087-L-W10  A  N  R-N2

Do these numbers mean anything to anyone?

Thanks,

Dave

[PaulS]

A great list of block casting information is at http://ww2jeeps.com/htm/Lheadmain.htm

-Paul

[DaveG]

Thanks Paul.  Found some good info there.  The numbers on the block and head indicate that it was a transitional engine that comes up 2a. 

I also found the tag on the inside of the left front frame rail.  It shows number 449021.

Additionally on the body bolster on the firewall near the steering column there is a stamped number.  247830  Any chance that was the hood number?

Thanks,

Dave

[DaveG]

OK, been doing more research.  Near as I can tell the frame number was made in 1945.  If that is the case, the engine in it could be original as it shows being a transitional casting. 

Any different opinions or anybody want to tell me what I am looking at wrong?      

Thanks,

Dave

[athawk11]

That is the machine gun plate we were looking for!� excellent.� The bellcrank is also MB.� The number on the support gusset is an ACM #.� American Central Manufacturing made the tubs/sheet metal parts for Willys up until 3A production.� I'm not super familiar with ACM Willys # information for dating the Willys.� On WWII tubs, I believe Type 1 tubs had very sharp angle looking gusset supports.� Type 2 tubs are late war. The gusset supports on Type 2 are more rounded like a 2A and 3A.

Engine history is easiest to discover by knowing the block serial #.� This is a stamped number on the engine boss.� The engine boss with serial # can be found in one of two places...

--Just below the water pump.� There is a flat spot on the engine block.

OR

--Just behind where the original oil filter is mounted.� There is usually an oval shaped flat spot on the block.

Be careful when removing rust or paint from these bosses.� The stamping can be very faint if the block has been re-surfaced.� Don't GRIND away.� Use a combo of soft wire brushes, fluids, 220, 320 sand paper, etc..�

This is the best way to date the block.� The #s may not be there anymore...for a number of reasons.� If they are gone, there is almost no way to verify that the engine block is original to this Willys.

Your head is surely a MB, GPW, or VEC 2A head.� This makes me hopeful the engine is also WWII, but we won't be able to tell from the engine castings you have uncovered.� Find those serial #s!!

I don't want you to go away, but FBill has pointed out the other military sites that can be very helpful while doing your research.� Go there, but always come back to us here at the 3A.� We are all Willys enthusiasts.� We like all things flat fender.� We also happen to be the most friendly Willys forum on the net!!

Tim