The manual states, par Q-6, adjust to provide .001" to .006"
If you are aiming for .006" to begin with, you're not leaving yourself much room for any possible wear. I aim towards the tighter end but stop once it's within. The way it was explained to me is shims on one side only or split any combination to both sides. The end result will be the same. I loaded all shims on one side until I got between .001 and .006. Shimming on one side makes it easier vs. back and forth. I then took it back apart and divided nearly evenly to both sides. The manual continues with on early models, shims were split to both sides. Later models, shims on one side only.
I watched some of that video and having a dial like that would make things really easy. I used a feeler gauge - and yes, it worked. In the video he talked about the spacer in the middle of the differential (spider) gears. That and the two axles together form a shaft that needs this tolerance for bearing load. Back out at the end of the axle, you're mashing the cup down on the bearing which presses the axle deeper into the housing. The shims under the retainer, stop the cup from going too far and binding or making and maintaining contact all the way across. Hence the minimum of .001" clearance.
Just in case.....Disclaimer: If I remembered wrong, age is to blame.
With foggy memory, this may have been how I did it: No shims and seat the bearing cups. One bearing retainer flush against the housing, the other not, i.e. the bearing cup is raised above the axle housing flange. No torquing just snug down to ensure no gap at the spacer inside (zero tolerance). Measure the gap of the retainer/flange and pick up enough shims to add for required end play (gap plus .001-.006). Remove that bearing retainer and add the shims and remeasure between the bearing cup and bearing retainer. It "should be" within tolerances. Disassemble and pull that axle out (or both - but just enough to back the cup out), add shims (one side or both) and when all together you should be done. However, if you had that dial, you could then measure again to check your work.
One thing to point out is in most cases, if you keep your shims intact, after rebuild everything should go back just as before (somebody should have measured it before your teardown). The end float should be the same.
I hope this ramble makes sense.
