Oil Pickup float

[Chuck W.]

Here's my new problem; 1964 CJ3B. I had some oil leaks at the front of the oil pan, so I dropped the pan and the pickup tube. Cleaned everything. Installed the pan & pickup with new gaskets.
I used Shell Rotella T-4 10w40 oil since I hear that it has the correct amount of Zinc for the flat tappet cam shaft.
Now, I have a random rattle in the engine that I cannot identify. The engine runs great, 40-45 psi oil pressure, just this very random quick rattle.
I am beginning to suspect it has something to do with the oil pickup float, as that's all I really touched. I removed it, removed the guard over the screen, removed the cotter pin and separated the two parts. There was what looked like a paper gasket between the guard and the screen, but I didn't put it back when I reinstalled the shield over the screen.
Bottom line; has anyone ever heard of the oil pickup float making a noise? I can almost visualize the pickup float bouncing around and making this noise. I noticed that the float was very loose before I removed it and after I put it back on. There was no indication of an O-ring in the joint between the two tubes.
I guess I am going to have to pull the pan back down and inspect the pickup, but I don't know what to look for?

[Rus Curtis]

I remember reading some things on this pickup.  I'll have to circle back when I have a bit of time to search.

[Chuck W.]

Thanks, Rus. I have searched everything I can find and it seems most discussions are about whether or not to add an O-ring at the joint. Everything I have says "No". Mine did not have one.
I don't know if something got bent on the pickup when I put it back in. Don't see how, but guess I will go back into it next week or so and see.

[Chuck W.]

Finally tracked the noise down, appears to be the water pump!  With the fan belt off, no noise. I can grab the fan and move it in and out and side-to-side quite a bit. This pump is only about 4-5 years old.

[Rus Curtis]

Good!  I would guess you won't get another 4-5 yrs, maybe.

Back to the pick-up, I think mine only had the flat gasket.

[Mark W.]

The little tub attached to the pickup fits into a slightly tapered hole in the support. This allows the pickup to float with the oil as you go up and down hills. Keeping the pickup from sucking air.

As to Rotella  oil having the proper amount of zinc. As Rotella greatly reduced its zinc content a few years back to meet the current standards for Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel buring engines. I would not count on it having enough. I have seen many references to 2000 to 2100 ppm of zinc being recommended for solid lifter and flat tappet type engines. Lucas Hot Rod and Classic oil which was developed specifically for this type of engine has 2100 ppm of zinc.

BUT the oil debate is never ending.

[Chuck W.]

BUT the oil debate is never ending.

Thanks, That's the truth!  The more I read, the more confused I get. One page says anything above 800 ppm of ZDDP is good enough to protect flat tappet lifters, and Rotella T4 is suppose to have 1450 ppm.

Not to mention the transmission oil debate about high sulfur EP additives causing corrosion damage to brass/bronze. I've changed to 90 wt GL-1 mineral oil in all my transmissions and transfer cases.

Anyway, here is the source of the noise that was driving me crazy: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5WIzsazATAE

[Mark W.]

I chose the only oil I know of that says it was specifically formulated for the type of engine the 134L is Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Oil. Granted it does come in a couple different weights so I then went with the weight mentioned in the 1958 Service manual again for the 134L 10w-30 (it also recommends 30wt.) In this way I have avoided all the guess work. I figure a company like Lucas does not want to deal with thousands of claims from people with fancy Classic cars and trucks who's engines have failed due to oil. So they most likely did their due diligence before labeling and recommending their oil for the type of engine that has flat tappets (as opposed to roller lifters)

Gear oil I did the same thing I chose an oil that specifically says its safe for yellow metal and is of a grade the service manual calls for G-4 for gear boxes and G-5 for Axles (no yellow oil in axles but they do need oil with hi pressure additives)

I'll recommend what I use for the above reasons but I am done arguing about oil.

[Rus Curtis]

I did similar; I've got Classic for engine and GL-4 for everything else.  My rational is the GL-4 has some additive (low enough to be safe for yellow) but is still rated for hypoid gears.  That way, fewer liquids to stock.  I need about 10 years of driving to see if this works.

[Chuck W.]

New water pump came today, installed it, good news, no more noise!

[Rus Curtis]

Excellent!