'63 CJ3B

[Rogercarroll]

I just took ownership of my father-in-laws 1963 CJ3B. This is my first Jeep so everything I know I'm learning on this page. He bought it in 1987 and used it as a work vehicle on his farm outside St. Louis. Before that it was owned by a bridge painting company. It has always been garage/barn kept. He believes the top was original to the vehicle and made by Koenig (although the plate has been painted over). He never had the doors and added the tailgate after he purchased it. The front seat is from a Scout and the front bumper/brush guard was fabricated for strength and allowed for a place to load deer being hauled back during hunting season. A tow pintle was welded on at some point. The heater and turn signals were removed. The only working gauge is the aftermarket oil pressure he added. Other than that he believes it is pretty original. He had the engine rebuilt in the late '80s and was bored .080.

The engine number is P22015. Can anyone tell me why that doesn't match the numbering convention used?

My initial plans are to make it road worthy. The steering is loose. He thinks it the box. The brakes are "suspect". He says he's never worked on the wheel bearings. The engine stalls after it has been running. He thinks it has a bad coil that is overheating. If that isn't it he thinks it might be a vapor lock because he replaced the fuel line not too long ago.

Can anyone tell me anything else about the vehicle?

Thanks for everyone's help and knowledge.
Roger

[Rus Curtis]

Roger,
Welcome and sorry for the delay on commenting!

Looks like a solid jeep to start with.  Hopefully by now you've got the brakes where they need to be and are working through the rest. 

I don't know enough about the engine numbers to offer a good possible answer.  Also, I don't recognize the top but believe using chemicals or heat, you may be able to uncover the painted over plate to see what it says.  Can you tell if the plate was stamped or possibly imprinted?

[Rogercarroll]

Before I buy a pully remover can anyone tell me if these two pulies are interchangeable? I need the pully on the old gen to put on the new gen.

[Rus Curtis]

Having a side image will help, but I believe the old pulley will be needed.  It establishes the offset to allow the fan belt to line up with the other pulleys.

I think the old can be removed with an impact wrench.  It almost looks like the new pulley could be pressed on.

[Rogercarroll]

The old generator was incorrect for the jeep. The pullys had been lined up, and the generator was bolted on with washers for bushings. The new generator will probably have to go on the same way. I just don’t know if the pulley from the old generator with the bolts will fit on the new generator that is Push on. Here is another picture.

[Rus Curtis]

Yes.  You can really see the offset here.  The nut holding the old pulley on the shaft can be removed with an impact wrench.  It still looks like, to me, the new pulley is pressed on - I really don't know.  Even if it's removable, I suspect the end of the shaft would need threads to attach the old pulley - and those threads may not exist if that pulley is pressed on.

Did you buy the new generator from a local shop or mail order?  If local, I'd take both in to show them.  Perhaps they have a different new generator with a threaded shaft that would work (also ensure you compare tabs for mounting and match those also).  If mail order from a jeep vendor, I'd definitely be on the phone with them to ask why they sent what they sent.

[Rogercarroll]

The new generator is one my father in law bought years ago. I have no idea where he got it. It does not have a data plate but the box says '65 Willys. I wasn't sure about the compatibility of a threaded pulley vs a pressed on pulley. Do you know where I can get a new press on pulley that matches the V belt I have? Since I think my VR is bad too I was thinking of converting to an alternator. I've read the Delco 10SI ones are the best? Does it really matter what alternator I buy as long as I can rig a bracket to hold it?

[Chuck W.]

Unless you are wanting to keep everything original, the 10SI one-wire alternator is the way to go.
Mounting bracket is simple, too:

 


https://www.willysworks.com/

[Rogercarroll]

That looks like the alternator set up I want to get.

[Rogercarroll]

I spent the winter completely replacing my 9" brakes. Everything downstream of the MC has been replaced except for the drums, backing plates, and hold down hardware. Everyone talks about upgrading to 11" brakes but I have the 15x7 wheels and my understanding is they don't fit with 11" brakes. No one talks about upgrading to the 10" brakes. Is there a big difference between the 9" and 10"? Would the 10" brakes fit my wheels?