CJ3B in a Box

[MainerOnTTL]

Good afternoon friends, I recently purchased a CJ3B that is a rolling chassis, new tub, and everything else in boxes.  The previous owner had great aspirations for the rebuild but fortunately for me his wife wanted their garage back.  The bad part is I have to figure out everything on my own and hope you all can lend a hand.  Basically, the previous owner removed everything needed to place the new tub on the frame and that's it; pedals, linkages, steering, everything remains disassembled in boxes.  Can anyone tell me if I have a 6 volt or 12 volt starter and generator?  I'd like to run this 3B as a 12 volt.

TIA, Chris (MainerOnTTL)

[Rus Curtis]

Chris,
Welcome!  Your first post?  Congrats on your new "jeep-in-a-box" project.  The absolute most helpful to you will be owning a Service Manual.  It will really help with how things fit and work together to include servicing as well.

In order to help you, you'll need to provide more information.  What year is your jeep?  Is it all original, replacement parts, modifications, etc?  The electrical system could be either and since there are 12V generator/regulator systems.  Having an alternator will help narrow the possibilities (a 6V alternator is rare but still available).  The easiest way to guess would be to look at the bulbs.  Headlights, taillights, etc.  They should be stamped with either 6V or 12V.

An owner could be in the process of swapping from 6V to 12V during a rebuild but I'd guess that if that happens either there's a box of bulbs set aside, or that purchase will be near the end after assembly of everything else.

How does the wiring look?  Is it cloth covered and tattered or newer modern wire?  Color coded or all the same color?

[MainerOnTTL]

Thanks for the quick response Rus, this is my first post, and I took your advice and downloaded the Universal Parts pdf and the Universal Service Manual from this site.  Both books are definitely a wealth of information, I'm already crawling all over the jeep investigating.  The data plate on the starter checks out as 12v (and cranks fine under 12v), the generator doesn't have a plate.  There is a regulator at the bottom of one my many bins but it's rusty and dented, I'll play it safe and upgrade to an alternator.  I have to chuckle at your question regarding the wiring.  There isn't any wiring at all, except for a negative battery cable dangling from the chassis.  There wasn't a coil on the block or in a bin, so I added one and it sparks fine when cranked.  Compression is steady at 115-117 each cylinder.  I can't find any serials on the frame or engine, the title states it's a 1964, but the serial number indicates that maybe it's from 1963? The only set of numbers I could find on the engine is "SD 807895".

[Rus Curtis]

Sounds like some things were half finished when you took over. 

It could be that the PO was in the process of changing to 12V (still check the bulbs when you can).  That gen (and maybe reg) could still be tested to see if they work-and that may tell you something.  I wanted to stay with a generator so I sourced a 12V charging system.  Hopefully, you got a coil with an internal resistor. 

So, no wiring....  Okay, maybe it was bad off.  What I had left over wasn't that great.  Rewiring is not difficult if you take each circuit separately.  Some (who can get the old harness off-I'm not one of those) have built a board to run the wires and keep it all neat.  I ended up ordering a harness.

It is possible that your serial number could be off by a year.  Jeeps could get titled the year they were sold vs. manufactured.

https://cj3b.info/SerialNos/SerialNosFrame.html


https://cj3b.info/SerialNos.html


https://cj3b.info/SerialNos/SerialNosEngine.html


On the engine, check the flat boss just behind the top of the water pump.

[MainerOnTTL]

Thanks for the info Rus.  I took your advice and checked the bulbs to confirm everything is 12v and purchased an aftermarket wiring harness/kit.  But that install will have to wait.  I just completed the full replacement of leaf springs and shocks.  The leafs were in terrible shape, every assembly had a busted leaf (or two) and one was so bad it was kept together with a couple of pipe clamps. 

Next on the to-do list will be the brakes.  No flex-lines, tubing, or a master cylinder are present on the frame.  There is a master cylinder in the bins and will attempt a rebuild along with each of the wheel cylinders.  I'll replace the shoes and get the drums turned as well.

 

[MainerOnTTL]

Good morning folks, 3B in-a-box build is making serious progress:

-brakes, done.  Turned drums, rebuilt all brake cylinders, replaced shoes and hardware, replaced all tube-line and hoses.
-suspension, done.  All four leafs replaced, new shocks and bump stops installed.
-engine oil, coolant, plugs and wires, distributor, front & rear differentials all replaced or serviced.
-windshield, in progress.  Replacement glass and new gasket ready to install.
-electrical, in progress.  Replacement wire harness ready to install.  All light fixtures will need replacement. 
-body, in progress.  Hole template for dash hung (ready for drilling), body spacers ready to install.  Floor holes for pedals need measurement and cut (any templates out there?)
-fuel tank, in progress.  Installation of new fuel lines, sending unit and fuel pump needed.
-misc: e-brake, clutch/brake pedals, speedo and cable, still need installation.
-fuel pump, in progress.  Vac line help needed!

Next on the punch-list is the fuel delivery.  I removed the fuel pump to bench test and examine for replacement or rebuild.  It appears to be a 4032AX dual action pump and none of the four nipples have any lines connected (Pictures below).  I don't plan on adding a vacuum line for wipers, can this be plugged-off on the pump?  Which nipples are for the vac lines and which are for the fuel in/out? 

I can't find a detail vacuum diagram for the 3B and it appears the vac line goes from the PCV to a tee (one port is open) and continues to the intake manifold.  Does the open port on the tee must be plumbed to the fuel pump or can it be plugged? 

Also, the 3/4" hose from the oil fill tube is hanging with a random bolt used as a plug.  What should this hose be attached to?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Chris (MainerOnTTL)

[Rus Curtis]

Chris,
I spend a lot of time scrolling through all the stuff on the 3B Page.  There's a lot there.  You can go through the Tech Section to find loads.  Specifically, with the Engine links, you'll find Bulletins and images that help explain a lot.

On the fuel pump, I documented mine in my rebuild on that other forum site.  Here's an image that may explain most:



The added filter was my idea (waiting to see how it performs before I move it). The unplugged vacuum at the bottom is for the line that runs to the wiper motor.

Also, specifically on the vacuum, you'll want to read up on Crankcase Ventilation (that will also answer the question on the hose dangling from the oil filler tube!):

https://cj3b.info/Tech/PCV.html

[Bruce_W]

Rus,
  I like your fuel filter installation. Much better than hose clamps. Air leaking into the “suction” side of the fuel system is one of the biggest problems we have.
BW

[MainerOnTTL]

As always, excellent advice Rus and thank you.  I did dig thru the posts but just wasnt finding definitive answers.  Thanks for the tip, I did find more information on adjacent sites.  That dangling hose would connect to the breather, but I have aftermarket setup.  Since this post, I've disassembled the dual action fuel pump and it's beyond repair.  Way too much corrosion and blistering to salvage so I'll purchase a replacement single action.  I'll plug that one open port on the tee and hope to be up and running.

[Rus Curtis]

Rus,
  I like your fuel filter installation. Much better than hose clamps. Air leaking into the “suction” side of the fuel system is one of the biggest problems we have.
BW

Copied so I could see post....

Bruce,
Thanks.  I got that filter idea from a 3B Page article, but it was attached at the carb.  It isn't lost on me that a filter may be better on the carb side as the pump can push better than it can pull from the tank.   Not sure if this is permanent yet.

Chris,
An aftermarket filter could be modified to filter the air going into the filler tube (I would say it's a better solution vs. just sucking unfiltered air).  If the modification is too extensive, I've also seen small air filters plugged into that hose also.  As far as the pump goes, if you're not running vacuum wipers, you won't need the dual action.  But, those pumps can almost always be rebuilt - if that was your preference.  Scoutpilot can help with that.  I had mine rebuilt before I knew him.

[MainerOnTTL]

Rus, what is the fitting on the bottom side of your fuel filter?  Not sure if it's a check valve or an adapter

[Rus Curtis]

They're all fittings - no check valves.  It was a frustrating project and a lot of trial and error.  I had to combine pipe fittings to flared fittings and eventually got it to connect.

Here's another image a bit lower showing better all the fittings.

[MainerOnTTL]

Made a lot of progress with 3BiB over the last two weeks.  And plenty of pictures to show the progress: 

-Brakes are completely plumbed, next is to bleed and adjust.
-Front bumper mounted, rear bumper is next.
-Body squared up but I will need to reset a few outriggers.  It’s a MD Juan tub and not lining up.
-The cutout for the transfer case will need widened.
-Holes cut for the peddles.
-Dash painted, odometer and eBrake installed.
-Windshield installed! (that was fun)
-Fuel tank installed and plumbed to new single action pump.  Filter to be installed.
-Headlights and parking lights installed.
-Steering column and wheel installed.
-Seats installed. Driver’s seat mounting looks odd but after a lot of research, this is the norm for a ’64.[/li][/list]

I’m very happy with the progress and can now see the light at the end of the tunnel.   I’m shooting for 1 March to have this gal drivable.  Thanks to everyone for their support!

[MainerOnTTL]

Headlights, seat and fuel tank install

[MainerOnTTL]

Dash, windshield, nomen plate, eBrake and ohsh!t handle installed