Front Axle toe-in

[Chuck W.]

I was wondering what type of tool people have used to check the front axle toe-in on their jeeps. In the past, I have just used a tape measure, but the 3/64" spec may need more accuracy.  Since my '64 has the 4.28:1 gears and operates easily at 55 mph, I have noticed that the steering is a little squirrely, and I suspect it needs a more accurate adjustment. Anybody tried something like this: , or should I just take it to my local alignment shop? I would be surprised if they would even touch it.

[oldtime]

How to set toe in with  Jeep setting on a perfectly flat floor.

Keeping the slightly different front and rear axle track widths in mind and compensating for it; try running a string line along the outer edge of from rear to front. Set and check to
be sure all axles are perfectly straight and aligned.
Then tighten the tie rod one full turn to achieve proper “toe in”.
Recheck to make sure Ross steering gear is at exact center of it’s travel.

[Rus Curtis]

How to set toe in with  Jeep setting on a perfectly flat floor.

Keeping the slightly different front and rear axle track widths in mind and compensating for it; try running a string line along the outer edge of from rear to front. Set and check to
be sure all axles are perfectly straight and aligned.
Then tighten the tie rod one full turn to achieve proper “toe in”.
Recheck to make sure Ross steering gear is at exact center of it’s travel.

(copy/paste to see post)

As OT points out, the process is rather short.  I've used string in the past.  I've also used a long strip of angle stock as a straight-edge.  Measuring the tread center front and back will tell you if your widths are the same or different.  Once the steering wheel is centered and the bellcrank verified 90 degrees, the front wheels can be centered using the tie rods. 

Ken's post may have address a different setup, i.e. single tie rod, but my Service Manual states turning the tie rods to "shorten each tie rod approximately one-half turn."  Paragraph, O-11. 

The SM also states that camber and castor are already set but can be off by loose bearings or bent components.

(fixed double posting...grrr)

[oldtime]

Myself I run a single tie rod not a two piece or split tie rod and so I give it a full turn inward after the treads are perfectly centered.

Yes as Russ mentioned and I should have clarified this better.
When you have a split tie rod (standard Ross steering) then each rod gets one half turn inward or one rod only is given a full turn. To turn one rod s full turn or two rods at s half turn really depends on the center point of your sector shaft.
With cover removed from Ross box I find the exact mid point of travel (spiral cam high point) then align the spokes on my steering wheel so I know when the Ross sector is centered for steering adjustments.

[Marla.the.V35]

With cover removed from Ross box I find the exact mid point of travel (spiral cam high point) then align the spokes on my steering wheel so I know when the Ross sector is centered for steering adjustments.

Do be careful if your steering box is (correctly) filled with oil, and not grease, as it will run out when you open that cover. I just rebuilt mine last summer, and filled it with oil, but then realized I didn't check the box for center. D'oh! My foible is your gain, here's how I centered it without removing the cover.

• Place a piece of tape on the windshield where you think the steering wheel's center is.
• detach the drag link at the pitman arm
• turn the steering wheel to full left stop
• place a piece of tape on the steering wheel to match the location on the windshield
• turn to full lock right and count how many times the tapes pass each other
• divide this number by two
• turn back to the left however many times that number is (for me, it was approx 1.75 iirc
• adjust the tape to new "center"

   

repeat the above until you have the same number of rotations left and right compared to the tape on teh windshield. Once you're satisfied it's correct, use a paint pen to mark line atop the steering box and pitman arm so you'll have it as a ref for later that doesn't require opening the box.

[oldtime]

You are correct because it is not mandatory to remove the box cover.
 You can determine an approximate steering center by counting the total number of wheel revolutions.
I say approximate because these boxes often turn a bit further one way or the other.
After you find approximate center turn steering wheel right then back left.
If sector adjustment is too tight the box will bind at mid point.
If sector adjustment is loose you cannot feel any difference.
If sector adjustment is correct you will only feel a slight drag when sector is at exact mid point.
This is because technically it is not a brass worm gear.
It is a “spiral cam” because it has a slight high point at it’s center.
When you feel this slight drag at mid point you can then orient the steering wheel spokes to help identify the exact true center.

[Marla.the.V35]

Good call oldtime. I forgot to mention adjusting the sector adjustment screw. I haven't done mine yet (though its on the punch list) after rebuilding.  Minimal driving occurred before suspension work began.