Not Starting after a drive

[Shark49]

Took my 49 for a drive and stopped at a friends to show it to him.  Wouldn't start back up and looking down into the carb I could see a little puddle of fuel at bottom in intake manifold.  Pulled a plug and it was dry.  I sprayed starter fluid in the cylinder to prime it and it started right up.   I have a l-134 with a solex on it connected to the stock air horn and filter(new).  New fuel pump and filter.  New lines from tank and new tank.  Fresh gas and it has started easily till this instance.  First time it has done this.

What would cause this? Lack of vacuum?  I do have the draft tube setup and also have a blocked PCV at the exhaust header as well.  I ordered the lines and fittings to get it hooked up and rid off of the draft tube.

-Nathan

[athawk11]

Your fuel line and filter are very close to your exhaust manifold/exhaust pipe. The heat can cause vapor lock.  Consider moving your line and filter as far away from the exhaust manifold/pipe as you can.



   

[Shark49]

Good point.  Thanks

[SteveKfl]

I'd suggest using the filter's 90 degree fitting at the pump output, instead of the filter, and use your other same parts to relocate the line away from the heat.

[Shark49]

so after hours trying to find fittings I got it hooked up but now its spraying fuel out of the banjo fitting. wondering if the fuel line I am using is too narrow causing excessive pressure now.  Can't frigging win.

[PercyUK]

Hiya, I have a solex and they are "interesting" for want of a better word. When the engine is hot and you turn it off fuel is sucked out of the unit and pools in the manifold. Carter's don't do it because they are designed differently. When you go to restart do not put your foot on the gas or else it simply floods as there is already fuel present.
If it doesnt start after a few cranks then, and only then, try a few pumps on the pedal and you should be good. There is a lot of talk about the Solex being affected by high fuel pressure. I made a thicker spacer to put between the block and fuel pump to reduce mine and it seems to be fine.
Barring any actual blockage I think that this will be your problem.
Good luck

[scoutpilot]

Yes. That banjo fitting will leak. The long arm of the connecting tube holds the unsupported weight of the filter too far out. A steel tube from the pump to the filter is required here.

[Shark49]

is there supposed to be a gasket on the carb side of the fitting?  Mine only has it on the bolt head.

[scoutpilot]

Yes.

[Shark49]

I can't find it offered anywhere can anyone point me to where to get it?

[Rus Curtis]

I may be oversimplifying it since I've got no experience with this type of setup but, I googled, "Solex Banjo fitting," and got a lot of returns.  There was even one link to a thread on the CJ2A forum seeming to address size.

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/solex-carb_topic31866.html

There's plenty more links out there but I would assume nearly all banjo fittings use copper seals.  Measuring and then going to a local shop (take the banjo fitting with you), like suggested above, should get you a seal that will fit.  May be a good idea to replace both sides.

[Shark49]

Thanks Russ I found that link as well.

I found a link to 356 porsche solex carbs washer but got no answer from them so I ended up buying a copper washer kit on amazon that should cover me for many things.  As soon as I get it in Ill let y'all know how it goes.

[Shark49]

I took it for a spin yesterday and jeep ran fine.  Got home and had the air horn off and saw fuel bubbling out of the carb a little.  The carb body itself was pretty hot.  Lots of heat soak going on here.  I am thinking its the exhaust bypass flange not working properly.  When stopped it sits at about 4 oclock.  When running its kinda bouncy so I think the spring is bad or not correctly mounted.

found this great video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiKVmaRjxlU

I have read on forums that a lot of folks just tie the flap up so its closed all of the time and don't have problems.

[scoutpilot]

A great video by Metalshaper. If I may add to his narrative. With the valve wired open (full bypass) there will be excessive carbon buildup on the plugs, the valves, and in the oil, caused by the overly rich mixture entering the cylinders during the longer warmup. Think more frequent oil changes. Think very poor fuel mileage. Think a steeper curve to overall poorer performance. Think a motor that won't last as long as when the valve is functioning properly.

[Shark49]

ya my spring was mounted wrong but it might be worn out or a PO bent it as it doesnt close the flap fully once heated up and bounces instead.