'49 CJ3A "HONDO"

[Rus Curtis]

On your wiring diagram for the 3A, you'll see it up near the front of the driver's inner fender skirt.  All the wires coming from the light switch, dimmer switch and turn signal switch (if installed) connect there on their own posts so that the lights are on the correct circuit.  I'll wager a guess that the junction block is there so you can remove the radiator guard and have a place to disconnect the wires without ripping everything apart.

Did Walck's give you a color diagram of which wire goes where?

I added a pic from Buddy Wade's '55 on the CJ3B Page on your other post.

Here's mine during the wiring process below:

[Rus Curtis]

From the CJ3A Page (the jeep link at the top of this forum):

https://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_Tips/wiring%20diagrams.htm

[Shark49]

awesome that's very helpful! 

Another question. Im installing new throttle cable and choke cable but not sure how to cut back the sheath.  What is the best way?  Small pipe cutter?

thanks,
NAte

[Rus Curtis]

I'm not sure what the "correct" answer is.  I "think" if you use wire cutters, diagonal cutters (diags/*) they would not give you a clean exit for the wire inside.  Others may be able to confirm this would work.  If you are left with a burr or "tag" sticking out interfering with the inner wire, you could also use a small rat tail file to reshape the exit.

What I did was use a cut-off wheel on my Dremel.  I measured first.  I already had the spark plug wires and throttle linkage installed.  I wanted to see what was in the way before figuring out how much to cut.  I routed to give both a nice non-binding arc to the carb bracket. 

Pull the inner wires way back out of the way before cutting.  After install, then you can measure the inner wires to the correct length. 

Both inner and outer cuts, take your time and measure multiple times to ensure you're happy with the length.  After the cut, you can't go back and fix it.

[BillT]

When cutting copper capillary tubes, which have very small id's, you do not want to crimp the tubes inner walls. We would use a small triangle file. I use the same method to cut small steel cables where I don't want to crimp the inner diameter. Score the sheath all the way around heavily then flex the sheath and it should break where scored. The steel sheaths take a little more time but you don't have to worry about damaging the inner wire.

[PercyUK]

I think I used a junior hacksaw.

[Shark49]

so I noticed that my oil canister is different than what I see in pics and the plumbing is different too.  The bottom does not go to the timing cover as there is no inlet in it.  Must be not correct cover.  Instead it goes to a custom inlet that dumps into the oil fill tube.  The top of the canister is fed from the outlet below the fuel pump.  Wondering if the plug in the block right next to the bottom of the fill tube is for coolant or oil?

[Rus Curtis]

I'm stumped on the timing gear cover.  There should be a fitting for the return hose.  Hopefully someone else can explain that.

I'll also confess I've never seen a return plumbing like what you have on the oil filler tube.   

You've correctly identified the "flow" from the port below the fuel pump to the top of the canister.  That flow should exit at the bottom and flow to the timing gear cover.  I don't see anything connected there (I do see the drain plug).  The PO added hose goes up behind the canister so I assume it's disconnected.

Skip the first few images (older chain timing military) and scroll down to see that the canister looks similar and has good images on hook up:

https://www.cj3apage.com/index/My_1950/rebuilding_the_l134.htm

I did find a post on the 2A forum showing the different canisters:

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/what-oil-filter-element-do-i-need_topic19963_post170539.html?KW=filter+canister#170539

There have been issues seeing some of the images.  I usually just right click on the image icon and "open in a new tab/ window" to see it. 

[Shark49]

Wow that's very helpful.  I even lucked out getting the correct filter for it lol.  I guess it works as plumbed but strange there isn't an inlet in the timing cover.

So what is the plug in the block next to the fill tube?  A drain for coolant?

[Shark49]

Nevermind, just saw a picture of an engine with a petcock there.  it's for coolant.

[Bob W]

Looks like you may have a pre-war engine there. Pre-oil filters. More photos would be helpful.

[Shark49]

ill take some photos when its stops raining.  Its painted blue if I read right that's a rebuild?

[Bob W]

Blue paint means nothing more than it is painted blue.

[Shark49]

So I got working on the wiring harness I got from Walks.  Its very impressive with the cloth shielding and color coding.  I got new light switch completed and all of new gauges installed just waiting on the high beam indicator light to come in.

Few questions:

My jeep has the older style park lights so I ordered a new set from KW and I assume I have to solder in my own wires and connectors.  Does anyone sell the wrapped wire for this?  I like the look and wanted to keep it going.

Where do I wire the dash light to on the switch?  Or do I do a separate toggle switch for that?  I do have another hole far left on the dash witch would work for a toggle but was thinking on using it for a fender mounted blackout light for cool effect.

[Rus Curtis]

My wiring harness (Vintage Wiring) had unfinished wires for the parking lights up front.  The tail light connections were also missing.  I asked why and the answer was too many variations.  Some owners swap lights with replacements or generics so its easier to just have the wires with no ends on them.  You can read how I fixed my parking/turn signal wires up front (as well as the tail lights) from the old 3B forum - yeah, still haven't moved that over to here yet, but I will.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/green-gruntt-t4658-s20.html

You can connect your wires any way they need to be connected to make the parking lights work (I have no knowledge of what a KW light looks like on the inside).  If they require soldering, I'd suggest a plug of some type so you can disconnect if needed.

The Tell Tale light and the instrument light are the only two lights on the "dash" and I've added below one thread discussing early 2A's having a separate switch for the dash light.  Later models, the light is connected to the same light switch post for taillights - so that its on all the time whether first or second notch.

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/all-those-holes-in-the-dash_topic47281_post478793.html?KW=dash+light+switch#478793

Discussion on the other hole on the dash next to the light switch:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/headlight-switch-versus-heater-control-dash-holes_topic50637_post515837.html?KW=dash+light+switch#515837