Points Set

[Spacecrab]

Hi guys,

I just wanted to ask what Points set you are using in your distributors?

I burning through a set every 4-6 months

The ones I can source locally don't seem to last very long and on closer inspection the tab which rides of the distro shaft is plastic

I believe originally it was a hard fiber right?

Any advice welcome, thanks

[BillT]

I’m using Echelin (sp?) from NAPA. They are not the quality of days past but seem to function ok. Last set I got did not have the little lub capsule. I guess it’s not needed with the plastic tab.

[oldtime]

Standard Motor Products SMP are the best you can get.
They even have an upgraded version the SMP Blue Streak.
If you continue to burn points then perhaps your coil voltage is too high.
Do you run internal or external resistor coil ?
You may be running an external resist coil without a resistor inline and that will burn the points.

[scoutpilot]

What Oldtime said! X2

[Spacecrab]

Yes I'm running what I believe is a external Bosch unit (sticker is long gone)

I'll look into the resistor line, I have no idea what the electrician put in but I'll say that it doesn't look any different to the other lines so it might be that

I may have jumped the gun and bought some Autolite NORS points

Thanks guys,

[oldtime]

First off I am assuming you have a 12 volt system.
You need determine if it has internal resistance or external ballast required type of coil.
134’s were normally set up with coils having sufficient internal resistance.
A 12 volt internal resistance coil is basically a 6 volt coil with extra windings to create sufficient resistance so the points don’t burn up when hooked to 12 volts.
You can basically determine the type of coil you have by testing the amount of primary resistance.
Contact an ohm meter to the tower and the + or - post.
Internal resisted 12volt coil should read about 3 ohms.
What does yours read ?

[Spacecrab]

Thanks OT

Not sure if I'm on the wrong setting but I seem to get this reading,...

[Spacecrab]

....

[oldtime]

This guy does a good job showing how to test a coil.
Follow his directions and tell us what you come up with for primary and for secondary readings.
I can then tell you what your particular numbers indicate.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FIx4dxew_UU

[Spacecrab]

Thanks OT that was really helpful

So I'm getting 4.6 on the primary windings in the 200 range & 8.1 on the secondary winding (20k range)

So does that mean I'm way over the 3 reading you mentioned?

[oldtime]

Sorry bout that.
I recently tested some coils for my dauntless and had those particular coil specs in mind.

According to the SM 1046 your primary resistance for a 12 volt F-134 should range between 3.9 and 4.2 ohms.
I’m sure it will function as is, but a reading of 4.6 primary is out of specification.
Basically the primary system has too much resistance which means it should not burn points at all.
However it will have weakened spark especially when starting.
The secondary numbers also give an idea for how strong the spark will be.
The higher the number the better the spark.(within spec)
Here your secondary is too low and out of spec.
It should range from 9400 to 11700 ohms of resistance.
Bottom line is that your weak coil is not causing your points to burn.

I’ll have to think what else may be happening here.
O.K. Here’s an idea. Are your point faces squarely aligned to one another?
Also if gap is closer than .020 spec that could be a problem causing short service life.

[scoutpilot]

How much of your system is 6 volt and how much is 12 volt?

[Spacecrab]

Thanks OT,

Strangely (and luckily) my 3B starts like a champ: that's one side that's never been a problem.

I see videos of CJ2a and older jeeps balancing choke and accelerator and warming I feel relieved I don't have to mess about like that each morning.

Mine is like a lighter, turns on and I'm off

The spark plugs do always seem to be dark black however: I just assumed I needed to stick a thicker spacer between the fuel pump and engine but I wanted to run a pressure test first. Could a weak spark mean fuel doesn't completely burn in the combustion chamber leaving the plugs filthy?

@Scoutpilot: as far as I'm aware the starter motor, alternator, signal stat & coil are all 12 volt, the rest is pretty much original but I have to admit I'm no electrician and pretty much leave it to others to sort.

[oldtime]

Generally spark plug fouling is a symptom of bad rings, worn valves and is most commonly caused from improper fuel mix.
But yes a weak spark will exaggerate any of those conditions.
The only other major component is the condition of the points condensor.
I hear nothing good about the new replacement condensers  available.
I only use NOS condensers and further more I test them all and mark their specific capacitance on each one for future reference.
Here again the SM1046 states they should have .25 to .28 microfarads of capacitance.
And yes a bad condenser can prematurely burn points.

[Spacecrab]

OK I'm really learning something

I have avoided the electrics side of the car, it's always seemed like black magic to me haha

Question: an electrician once recommended wiring two condensers in parallel suggesting that these days they are of bad quality and doing that would somehow divide the load between them and stop them from being damaged

Is that right or another misconception?