I can understand your logic. However, electronic ignition is said to prevent "point bounce" among other issues. One problem with electronics and replacement parts is... GIGO (garbage in garbage out)... if the input is not adequate, the output can not be... as well as there has been lots of discussions about the "lack of standards" of "replacement parts" these days, both electronic and/or mechanical. It seems to be the luck of the draw of what one gets compared to another using the same manufacturer. A main reason why old NOS mechanical parts are preferred.
Maybe one of the members here that still has access to the CJ3BInfo site can provide a link to some of the high output coil/electronic system discussions there. My Petronix digital conversion kit came with the instructions/warnings of the need for a "high output coil". That is why I asked about your coil. BTW... I have the original distributor plate stored onboard set up with new condenser and points in case of an emergency need. Two screws hold the plates in position for an easy swap out on my original distributor. That's my Plan B.
I found the following infor useful from Hot spark .com...
Measuring Coil Primary Resistance: 4-Cylinder: Coil must have a minimum of 3 Ohms primary resistance. 8-Cylinder: Coil must have between 1.5 Ohms and 2.0 Ohms primary resistance. To measure primary resistance: Label and remove all wires to coil ( + or - ). Using a common digital multimeter in the 200 Ω mode, cross the red and black leads of the Ohmmeter. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle and write down the reading.
Still in the 200 Ohm mode, measure between coil’s + and - terminals. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle, until it stabilizes. Subtract the previous reading, taken with the leads crossed, to compensate for multimeter’s inherent resistance. Do not use a low-resistance coil, such as the MSD or Accel coil; they don’t have enough primary resistance for this application. Using a coil with too little primary resistance can cause the ignition module to overheat and misfire until it cools down again or fails, voiding the warranty.
Ohmmeter Calibration: When the Ohmmeter’s red and black leads are connected to each other, the reading should be 0.00 or very close to zero. If, though, for example, with both Ohmmeter leads shorted together, the reading is 0.5 Ω, you’ll need to subtract 0.5 Ω from the reading you get when measuring the coil’s primary resistance. For example, if the coil’s primary resistance reading is 3.5 Ω, but when the Ohmmeter leads are shorted together the reading is 0.5 Ω, then the coil’s primary resistance is 3.0 Ω: 3.5 Ω - 0.5 Ω = 3.0 Ω. This calibration procedure applies only to resistance measurements made in the 200 Ω mode of a digital Ohmmeter.
The inherent resistance of the leads is negligible in higher Ω modes of the Ohmmeter. If you’re using an analog Ohmmeter, touch the leads together while setting the needle on zero before measuring resistance.
Measuring Coil Secondary Resistance: For best performance, coil should have 7K Ohms or more secondary resistance. To measure secondary resistance: Label and remove all wires to coil ( + or - ). Using a common digital multimeter in the 20K Ω mode, place one Ohmmeter lead on the coil's + or - terminal and the other Ohmmeter lead in the coil's center high-tension wire socket, the socket that holds the lead from the center of the coil to the center of distributor cap.
