What size fuel line?

[Marla.the.V35]

Hi there,

I'm unfortunately far away from my jeep, but anticipating doing some work this coming weekend and thus, it's time to order some parts. I cannot measure the fuel line at the moment, so I'm wondering if anyone knows this measurement of this line so I can order a new fuel filter and lines and prevent some down time.

Thanks!

[scoutpilot]

If you are writing about the complete system then I would use 1/4" steel from the tank to the correct new rubber crossover line to the pump. No filter here. From the pump I use 5/16" steel to the filter mounted to the carburetor. I recommend a glass bowl ceramic filter. I would not use the clamps you show in the photo. As installed, they cause the rubber to "bunch up" and allow air infiltration which lowers pressure and volume delivered to the carb. In essence, the fewer connections, the less likely will be air leaks.

[Marla.the.V35]

Do you have a photo illustrating this setup? I'm still learning
Where might I acquire this 1/4" steel line?

[Rus Curtis]

I used to go down to the local parts store and get 1/4" (as well as the 3/16" brake lines) but recently he told me he'd gotten rid of them all.  Maybe a demand thing.

Have you called any of your local stores to see if they carry it (if they have any it will be in generic lengths)?  I think the tank to pump length can be done with a 60" length.  I also used my flare tool to flare the ends after cutting them to fit.

You could also order the whole thing from a vendor (and then keep fingers crossed it all fits):

https://walcks4wd.com/Fuel-Line-Kits_c_277.html

[Marla.the.V35]

My local Napa has 1/4" steel brake line for a couple of bucks at 25 feet. Would this work the same for fuel (google seems to think so)? They also have copper line for not much more.
I assume copper would be better for longevity, but it's also a softer metal, and perhaps theft could be an issue...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6414001?impressionRank=3

Would having another filter in that line be a terrible idea? I've heard you can't filter fuel too much...

I appreciate all the help, I didn't grow up being so mechanically inclined, but I'm trying to be (and not hack it)!

[scoutpilot]

I tend to agree with you on the "belt and suspenders" approach. An in-line filter close to the tank is a good idea. A metal line can be sectioned to accommodate it, however, you would need to make a bubble flare at the cut ends with enough length for the rubber tubes on either end to extend far enough so you could use clamps. NAPA sells a clamp that entirely circles the tube with a circular plate.

[Bruce_W]

  I might have to disagree with Scoutpilot, and whoever said that you can’t filter fuel too much. Every filter is a restriction to flow, and means more work for the pump. Especially on the tank side, where every connection is an air leak waiting to happen. There is a very fine screen in the fuel pump, and I like Scoutpilot’s filter at the carb inlet. But every filter after the first one says that you don’t trust any of them.
  I used to have a plastic inline filter ahead of my fuel pump, just like in the photo shown. I got a bad batch of gas (my own fault - a dirty yard-sale jerry can) and had lots of trouble with the screen in the pump plugging up. How can that be? There’s a filter ahead of the pump. The cheap Chinese piece of crap filter was not glued all the way around inside, and was allowing dirt and rust to bypass the filter. No such thing with American made filters such as the screen in the pump and Scoutpilot’s glass bowl filter!
  Now, all I rely on is the screen in the pump, and I filter my fuel if it comes from a can. I subscribe to International Harvester’s advice - “ Buy Clean Fuel - Keep It Clean”. I have no more fuel delivery problems.
BW

[Marla.the.V35]

I can see your logic. I've attached an image of "my" (PO's, really) setup.

If I'm looking at this, 1 and 2 are both filters (with #1 also being a pump driven by a cam in the engine?)
I assume stock didn't come with the one with the X then.

[scoutpilot]

I think I see a problem in this photo. Just how close is that fuel line to the exhaust pipe? I'm thinking too close which would mean your fuel is boiling before it ever gets to the carb. If you're running ethanol fuel, that makes the problem worse.

BW. I still love you.

[Marla.the.V35]

Not the best photo, but the one I can access right now...

[SteveKfl]

3 filters and tight bends seems like a lot of "flow restrictions".

[Marla.the.V35]

Anyone got a pic of a "stock" setup?

[Rus Curtis]

My local Napa has 1/4" steel brake line for a couple of bucks at 25 feet. Would this work the same for fuel (google seems to think so)? They also have copper line for not much more.
I assume copper would be better for longevity, but it's also a softer metal, and perhaps theft could be an issue...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6414001?impressionRank=3

Anyone got a pic of a "stock" setup?

Dr. Vern used to have a really good website on his jeep projects.  One thing he mentioned is how easy it was to bend that coil of universal line vs. bending the stiffer pre-made lines.  I used the pre-made lines and it was challenging to get some of the bends in.  He was referring specifically to the brake lines but I do believe it's the same characteristics for both the 3/16" and the 1/4" lines.  If I had been familiar with that comparison before I did all my bending, I would have gone the route of getting a coil of universal tubing since I was re-flaring half of the tubing anyways.  I'd recommend getting the short flare nuts as they will look stock vs. the longer flare nuts.  Also pay attention to the type fittings.  I believe I see a 90* fitting on the fuel pump vs. what you have which is a straight fitting - which is routing your fuel line much closer to the manifold vs. what the images provided show.

Using copper lines is not advisable.  From what I've read, over time the copper actually hardens and gets brittle - from constant vibration - and will split.  If you are referring to the Copper/Nickel alloy line then it would be a good swap if you preferred it - although it would look a bit different.

I'd suggest using short lengths of tube to practice flaring before hand to build some confidence.  My first few didn't work well 1) the first flare kit was actually defective, 2) allowing for a little extra for the flare to get the length right - and remembering to put the nut on first before flaring came along eventually.

"A pic of stock?"  That would be hard.  Here's a collection since some of the fuel line can't be easily seen from any one angle:

From Derek's 3B Page this is DeCaprio's 3A:



From Bob's 3A Info Page:
https://cj3a.info/tech/line.html

On this link, scroll down to "Replacing The Fuel Line" :
https://cj3b.info/Tech/FuelLine.html

[Marla.the.V35]

What a wealth of information. I can't thank you all enough.

Fuel line restoration/repair is "down the road" just a little for the time being. Lots of other things in the stream ahead of it already, but this conversation has been incredibly insightful and I'll use it to gather tools and parts in the lead up to the work.

To be clear on some things...

• There should NOT be a second glass bowl just before the carb (#2 in the image above)?
• Fuel lines require single flare, bubble flare, or double flare? (For tools purchasing reference and also for when I start the work.)
• Look for universal line, but brake line can be used in it's stead? (and don't use copper!)
• Do fuel lines get a coat of paint after install to prevent corrosion, or is that something best left "naked" to see it before it's a problem?

I might will have some more questions down the road

Thank you again. I cannot begin to tell you what this community has meant to me in the short time that I've rejoined. For us guys that don't have the experience but have the desire to make it right and keep them running, it's invaluable.

edit: one of these days, I'll get the list syntax correct the first time! 

[scoutpilot]

What a wealth of information. I can't thank you all enough.

Fuel line restoration/repair is "down the road" just a little for the time being. Lots of other things in the stream ahead of it already, but this conversation has been incredibly insightful and I'll use it to gather tools and parts in the lead up to the work.

To be clear on some things...

• There should NOT be a second glass bowl just before the carb (#2 in the image above)?

There should be a glass bowl filter at the carb.

• Fuel lines require single flare, bubble flare, or double flare? (For tools purchasing reference and also for when I start the work.)

Inverted flare.

• Look for universal line, but brake line can be used in it's stead? (and don't use copper!)

If you are going to make your own use steel from a coil. The fewer connections the better.[/color]

• Do fuel lines get a coat of paint after install to prevent corrosion, or is that something best left "naked" to see it before it's a problem?

Leave naked.
[/list]

I might will have some more questions down the road

Thank you again. I cannot begin to tell you what this community has meant to me in the short time that I've rejoined. For us guys that don't have the experience but have the desire to make it right and keep them running, it's invaluable.

edit: one of these days, I'll get the list syntax correct the first time!