finishing restoration

[54-27329]

Always wanted on old jeep. When I retired from the Navy in 1995 (single man), I bought one in California and brought it home to South Texas. And promptly put it in storage; started collecting parts for it and went to work for the US Postal Service, got married in 2002, then retired (again) in 2016.  Finally getting around to doing a frame-up restore. One step daughter and two grandchildren can keep one very busy.  A previous jeep owner like to weld: a steel plate in the bed, an angle iron welded to the frame in place of rear bumper (which means cutting the "V" support), master cylinder bracket welded in (which must be removed to install bracket for dual reservoir master cylinder), front bumper gussets broken, welded and broken again, an angle iron welded down the center of the hood .  The body is 95 percent gone: floorboard rusted out, sides are chopped and repaired, rear corners beaten up badly. It might be more economical to buy a new tub.  The restore so far: stripped the tub, got the tub off the frame, rolling chassis is at the engine rebuilders to remove engine and rebuild, then to transmission shop for rebuild of transmission and transfer case and then to body shop to repair and paint frame. (Still trying to figure out how to insert pictures)

[Rus Curtis]

Rod,
Sounds like this jeep will need some attention.  There are three ways that I know of to post an image.  There are buttons above the window where you type.  The top row is mostly to modify the letters, i.e. Bold Underline, etc.  The second row has the buttons for inserting images. 

The first two are for using another place that has your images. "Upload" opens MyWillysPics.com.  You'll need to make an account.  I haven't used this much yet.  The second button is "Insert Image" for posting an image, from Flickr,  MyWillysPics or some other platform that allows you to store pictures.   

The other way is to click the "+" below the window you're typing for "Attachments"  and you can load images documents etc directly from your computer.   

I suggest checking your image size to ensure it will display easily.   Most of my images need to be reduced where it will display easily on a screen.

[54-27329]

Still working on pictures. You were right, my pics are way too big!! I'm trying to make them smaller (memory wise).  I do have one question (for now): I want to use a two-reservoir master cylinder, I see KW has them.  On their pictures, I did not see an outlet port on the end. Where would I install the stop switch?

[Rus Curtis]

There are several online "resizing" websites you can use to reduce the photos you want to post.  I have a program I use (Photoshop) that allows me to reduce a copy while keeping the original in its large MB size (allows me to zoom in when needed).

On the brake switch,  google "mechanical brake switch"  or "mechanical stop light switch."

My jeep came with one since one of the PO's was too lazy to fix the pressure switch.  I've read posts of others actually happy they converted to a mechanical switch as the current cheap one's seem to leak quickly after installing.

When you look underneath a modern vehicle, I believe most will have a mechanical switch since you then don't have to mess with the plumbing on the dual brake lines.

[54-27329]

Originally bought.  Body off, on its way to the shops.

[54-27329]

Chassis fixed and painted. Engine, transmission and transfer case rebuilt and installed. Suspension, steering, clutch linkage and dual reservoir master cylinder installed.  Transfer case leaks; looking into that. Brakes next. Single stage fuel pump installed; bought a fuel pump with vacuum (AC 4032) on ebay quite a while back.  Cannot get it to fit. Lever sits about a half of an inch below where lever is on single stage pump, lever only moves about one eighth of an inch.

[Mark W.]

If the Cowl, Firewall, Toe Boards, Dash, rear floor, riser, rear valance, and Tunnel are in good shape Then rebuilding the Tub using replacement panels from Classic Enterprises is doable. If the hat channels, Rear floor/Riser are shot then by the time you buy all those parts and unless you already have the gear and skill for welding then a New Tub is a better choice.

I rebuilt my whole tub I made the rear floor flat I made all the under floor supports from 3/4 x 1 1/2" and 1 x 2" tubing (I am going to be putting Oak strips on my floors) And it was a huge amount of work. Then add in the $600 investment in Welding equipment and supplies and The cost of a New Tub for most people just makes sense.

[PercyUK]

Hi, you have a cool project there, good luck with the build.
I was interested to see the way your doors were squared off for a hardtop. Mine was the same and yours is only the second I have ever seen.
I recently reverted them to stock but I know now that it wasn't a farmyard hack but a planned alteration.
Keep up the good work. 

[duffer]

If the Cowl, Firewall, Toe Boards, Dash, rear floor, riser, rear valance, and Tunnel are in good shape Then rebuilding the Tub using replacement panels from Classic Enterprises is doable. If the hat channels, Rear floor/Riser are shot then by the time you buy all those parts and unless you already have the gear and skill for welding then a New Tub is a better choice.

I rebuilt my whole tub I made the rear floor flat I made all the under floor supports from 3/4 x 1 1/2" and 1 x 2" tubing (I am going to be putting Oak strips on my floors) And it was a huge amount of work. Then add in the $600 investment in Welding equipment and supplies and The cost of a New Tub for most people just makes sense.

I agree.  If one's time is worth more than a $1/hr, most basket case tubs are better replaced.  I personally see little difference in originality whether they were replaced one piece at a time or in-mass if most of it is replaced anyway.  DeBella's SGI replacements seem to get pretty good review's (no personal experience with them).

[Mike House]

This is a really cool project. I am just short of two years into a resto/mod of a 1956 cj3b. I am almost done with it. I went with a new complete MD Juan body. I just did not have the time or the tools to rebuild every panel on the jeep. Plus I did not have a windshield or a tail gate with the jeep when I purchased it. So for me an entire new body made good sense.
Have fun with the project and thanks for your service!
Mike

[54-27329]

AXLES!  Rear axle good!  Front axle BAD!!  When the previous owner installed the selector hubs, apparently they did not put it together well. The differential carrier assembly is so chewed up by the left axle it aint no good no more.  Got one coming in from Georgia and a left axle from KW.
NEW TOPIC:  Since the drivetrain is almost completed; I am starting the body.  Question number 1:  The parts book (if I'm reading it right) says the transmission floor plate is bolted to the floor with 1/4 - 20 bolts.  I have no nuts on the bottom of my old tub.  Did I misread it? There were self tapping screws on it when I removed it.  Question number 2:  Did all Willys come with a hole for the PTO (behind the transmission) or only those that had that option?  If all had it, can someone tell me the dimensions and shape of the hole?  Apparently a previous owner like to cut and weld on everywhere on this body (including the PTO hole).

[Rus Curtis]

1) Early jeeps did have those bolts.  My '54 3B came with pan head screws.  When I had to replace my floor I got the body shop to cut up the replacement floor to preserve the original sheet metal screws.  There's also a tiny drain hole up in the inner corners of my floor pans where they meet the toe board.  Look to see if you can find those on yours.

2. A PTO was special equipment.  Some jeeps came with if ordered or added later.  I think the CJ-2A's had a plate over the already existing hole.  Not sure about the 3A or 3B.  I know mine had no hole so I can't help with where it should be.

[54-27329]

Changing the name of my thread from "Delayed restoration" to "Finish restoration".  Bought a new tub. I don't weld, so took it to body shop for the modifications.  Been in the shop for months.  Here in the Rio Grande Valley, I have found only one custom work body shop, and its backed up for months.  The dash is in (gauge holes, steering wheel bracket bend & emergency brake bracket); middle and rear soft top brackets welded on.  Pedal holes are next.  Old tailgate was beyond repair, new tailgate does not fit in between chain brackets. Will have to move chain brackets. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

[Rus Curtis]

Keep at it!  I spent a lot of time down at the body shop while they were fixing my tub.  I needed to be there to point out subtle details that they may have wanted to skip over.  My tub work also took months (Still not done)!

[54-27329]

New tub coming together.  It has dashboard. pedal holes, soft top brackets and assorted nuts and brackets welded in for the seat frames and gas tank.  I have a question on reinforcement brackets that are on the old tub, but not on the new one: One bracket bolts on from the front of the wheel well to the side of the body on both sides behind both front seats.  The other bracket is a corner bracket welded to the inside top firewall and the side, its located so that the windshield bracket bolts through it.  Are these original ?  Trying to upload pics.