generator to voltage reg wires

[tow hook]

my old girl has been a part for tooooo many years, and couldn't begin to tell you how the generator is wired. not much out there on goggle to fine what i'm looking for. so any help on what wires go from the field/ ground/ amps to the regulator ? this is the reg that i have, it's old, and not labeled   https://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/53-64-cj-3b/electrical/voltage-regulators/voltage-regulator-12-volt-fits-41-66-jeep-willys. thanks for any help

[1955CJ-5]

The regulator shown in your link looks like it's marked on the tabs where the wires screw on.....If you zoom the picture you can read the tab labels...maybe yours is also marked this way...

[Rus Curtis]

You could take the cover off.  This image shows the ARM and FLD always tied together and the BATT always alone:


From this page:
https://cj3b.info/Tech/DelcoRemy.html

Are you saying that not only is your voltage regulator not labeled but your generator isn't labeled either?

I just looked at my regulator and its arrangement is the same as your posted link (I think mine may have come from Walck's) but in my case, the tabs on the regulator were labeled and the posts on the generator were labeled.

[OnlyOneDR]

You could take the cover off.  This image shows the ARM and FLD always tied together and the BATT always alone:

Should not even have to do that.  Looking at the pictures in the link the underside of the regulator has the bar that ties between ARM and FLD as those two are on the same side, BAT is opposite.

[Rus Curtis]

I didn't look at the underside.  I had to go back and really look at it to find it!  Good catch!


I never looked at mine underneath either since the tabs were labeled.

[tow hook]

The regulator shown in your link looks like it's marked on the tabs where the wires screw on.....If you zoom the picture you can read the tab labels...maybe yours is also marked this way...

wow, thanks i cleaned off the 60 years of crap, and they were labeled !!! i assume the bat goes to the battery?  and were will the ground off the generator go ? to the frame? or the battery as well.

 thanks that helped

[tow hook]

one last question.. i have a short wire coming off the side were the black reg. cover mounts to / holds down to the base. it goes no were as of now.... is that a ground wire as well?  i touched it with the battery wire by acct. and it sparked !

thanks..

[Rus Curtis]

Batt = battery.  Also check your generator to see if the posts there are labeled.

The ground wire can be attached to a nearby ground, typically at the regulator (I've always seen the wire grounded there).  That short wire may be the remnants of the ground. 

Diagram here:
https://cj3b.info/Tech/SixVolt.html


I used that side cover screw to attach mine.  I had to go look at it again to see why I attached it there.  It seems it would be better to attach to the base that is fastened to the fender.  I didn't want it directly under the hot wires and it wouldn't reach all the way around to the outside fender attachment, but there was one bolt that was clear.  Then I looked closely and noticed the wiring harness had a small terminal that wouldn't fit on the larger fender bolt.  My choice must have been driven by convenience (I didn't want to change the terminal to a larger one) and I wanted to finish that part of the harness install:

[tow hook]

Thanks so much for the pic and the help. My ground screw was a tad under sized, got the right size bolt an tested it. My service manual says probe the arm tab for 12 volts. The test light didn’t lite up, so it says to use a 110 volt test lite. An test the field to ground, they want you to use a house outlet test lite ? Seems odd to me. Any thoughts ?       From the arm tab on the regulator I have a wire that goes to the wire harness. What purpose might that have ?

[Rus Curtis]

Thanks so much for the pic and the help. My ground screw was a tad under sized, got the right size bolt an tested it. My service manual says probe the arm tab for 12 volts. The test light didn’t lite up, so it says to use a 110 volt test lite. An test the field to ground, they want you to use a house outlet test lite ? Seems odd to me. Any thoughts ?

     

I have never actually tested or adjusted a regulator.  The time I had issues, I took it to an alternator shop and they adjusted it for me.  Lucky for me, I really haven't had a problem since.

But....  I had to look and find the reference for the light bulb (it sounded odd to me too).   I found it in my Service Manual (SM) in par I-27.  First it states to have everything hooked up correctly then test.  The first test is using an ammeter.  If your jeep has its ammeter installed and connected, seems that would be the easiest.  I think the following test may be needed if you're showing no amp needle movement.


I found under "No Ammeter" test where you disconnect the armature lead at the regulator.  Test (using a 6-12V light) with the engine running.  If you don't get a light the SM states there's a problem - either regulator or generator.

To isolate, that's where it states to disconnect the field and armature at the generator.  Using a 60W bulb, connect between the two posts (Arm and Fld).  The SM states at 1500rpm that bulb will glow.  This means the problem is with the regulator.  Certainly an interesting test.  Probably making it simple for the owner to troubleshoot in case a full shop isn't conveniently nearby.

Is your jeep running yet?  If not, this test may be premature. 

  From the arm tab on the regulator I have a wire that goes to the wire harness. What purpose might that have ?

For this one, I don't see any wire between the regulator and the rest of the wiring harness except for that one "Batt" wire.  The other 3 wires that touch the regulator and generator are their own seperate little harness.  See my image above.  Also reference Fig 151 (hopefully numbered same as yours).  Or any wiring diagram will show those 3 wires only connected between the reg and gen.  The "Batt" wire is connected only to the ammeter.

[tow hook]

Thanks that 110 seemed odd , I’ll get a bulb and wires and test further. I’ll shop @ the ace mon am , an see we’re it goes. Thanks again. Yep it does run. How much oil should I put in those cups on the front an rear of the generator ?

[Rus Curtis]

Thanks that 110 seemed odd , I’ll get a bulb and wires and test further. I’ll shop @ the ace mon am , an see we’re it goes. Thanks again. Yep it does run. How much oil should I put in those cups on the front an rear of the generator ?

Well, the manual, LUBRICATION SPECIFICATIONS, says a 2-4 drops of engine oil.  I've used 3-1 oil before (both the gen and distributor) but maybe engine oil is better.....

[tow hook]

thanks for the oil tip. i found a outlet tester ( for a house ) in my tool box, i used that vs the 60 watt bulb test. it didn't lite. so i found a local place that does old
school work  on generators an voltage regulars. the parts are out and i'll go down after lunch to get them tested.

[Rus Curtis]

Excellent!  This is what I'd do. 

Bench testing may work just fine for the gen output.  Don't be surprised if they want the vehicle to test/adjust the regulator.  But.... hopefully, they can check its operation too.  Oh, and if the gen posts aren't marked, ask them to scribe the "A" and "F" for you!

FWIW, I'm guessing the load that the bulb provides is probably different than the outlet tester.  Meaning, the 60W resistance was needed to "excite" or cause the generator to charge.  W=V*A.  60W /110V=.5Amps. But if on your vehicle:  60W/ 12V = 5 Amps.  The test light could be mA rated and not enough to make the generator "charge"  Note: I'm not an electrician so I may be wrong on this.

[tow hook]

Excellent!  This is what I'd do. 

Bench testing may work just fine for the gen output.  Don't be surprised if they want the vehicle to test/adjust the regulator.  But.... hopefully, they can check its operation too.  Oh, and if the gen posts aren't marked, ask them to scribe the "A" and "F" for you!

FWIW, I'm guessing the load that the bulb provides is probably different than the outlet tester.  Meaning, the 60W resistance was needed to "excite" or cause the generator to charge.  W=V*A.  60W /110V=.5Amps. But if on your vehicle:  60W/ 12V = 5 Amps.  The test light could be mA rated and not enough to make the generator "charge"  Note: I'm not an electrician so I may be wrong on this.

i took the regulator and generator to blacks electrical in boswell pa. and he tested the gen. it was noisy / grindey  when he went to pull power from it. left it there for a est.. i'll hope for the best.

thanks again