Adding an Oil Filter to a L134

[ojgrsoi]

As the title says I am going to add an standard Fram type oil filter canister to my L134.  The engine serial number starts with a 4SW and is also stamped  with 020 upside down.  I'm going to assume the engine was rebuilt .020 over.  There is no oil filter at this time.  On the top of the head there are bolts, not studs, where the oil filter mounting bracket would attach.  Will those bolts be long enough to add the bracket or do I need to look for something else?  And if so, what bolts or studs would I be looking for?  Thanks in advance for looking.

[Rus Curtis]

Mark,
Every L-head engine I've seen has had an oil filter canister attached on the front left side (just in front of the oil filler tube). 

Here's a post on the CJ2A Forum showing different styles of canisters/filters based on different parts lists:

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/what-oil-filter-element-do-i-need_topic19963.html

Using Joe Caprio's '51 CJ-3A from Derek's CJ-3B Page, you can see the filter canister attached:



That style seems to match what is referred in the 2A Forum as #8 in the third image.  I'm sure others can supply you with more detailed images of the bracket and how its attached.

If no one here has a complete assembly available, I'd suggest contacting Harry Sheets:  http://www.midwestwillys.com/ 

He's a regular at the Midwest Reunions.

[ojgrsoi]

Thanks for the response.  I am going to use the canister in the posted photo.  I am wondering if the standard head bolts on the front end of the head are going to be long enough for the oil filter bracket.  The head has bolts toward the front and studs toward the rear.   

Will those bolts be long enough to add the bracket or do I need to look for something else?  And if so, what bolts or studs would I be looking for? 

[SteveKfl]

I'm 'guessing' that the PO pulled the original studs with the "rebuild".  You can drain some of the coolant out of the block below the head level, and remove the bolt to check for length.  The bracket and a washer will only add 1/4" or so to the length.  With the bolt out, you can check the "depth" of the threaded hole to make sure you don't go "too long" of a bolt, or use the opportunity to add studs.  Added note, from my own experience and having noted many other oil filter brackets with cracks/weld repairs, I made a very simple extra "brace" to help support the filter bracket and minimize "vibration stress" from the extended weight well beyond the mounting surfaces.  The brace length is so the filter bracket sits on it's top tightly, and then is bolted to the filter bracket and uses a water pump bolt location for mounting.  1" aluminum angle was used.  Attached is what it looks like.  Good Luck!

[ojgrsoi]

That makes good sense.  I like the bracket.  I appreciate the help.  Now I've got to get to work.