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Author Topic: Pedal issues  (Read 1738 times)

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Offline Chuck W.

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Pedal issues
« on: October 07, 2019, 06:39:51 PM »
I have my body tub off and at the media blaster, and I need a measurement. While the tub is off, I am repairing the loose brake pedal. I ordered a reproduction brake pedal arm and the cross shaft. After comparing the old and new pedal arm, I realize the bends are not correct. I am going to attempt to heat and bend the pedal arm, but I need to know the center-to-center distance of the clutch and brake holes in the body. It looks to me to be about 7", but that is using my old loose brake pedal arm. My clutch pedal arm is good and tight, so I can use that as a reference point. I thought there was a chart  somewhere on the old site that had all the measurements?
1964 CJ3B  "Shelby Joy"
1952 M38 w/M100 trailer
1966 M274A2

Offline Rus Curtis

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Re: Pedal issues
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2019, 10:56:04 PM »
Chuck,
It would seem to me (even if the bends don't match) if you laid one pedal arm on top of the other with shaft hole aligned, you could verify the top hole (where the pad is attached) is also aligned.  If both ends match each other the bend "may" not matter. 

Was this the "chart" you were referencing?

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4117&p=40664&hilit=floor+holes+for+pedals#p40664

I got 7" pedal to pedal also.

Another option I've done is to install a bushing inside the original brake pedal arm.  Yes, it needs replacing from time to time (I'm going to need to replace it during this assembly before doing any hard driving).  This will make the second bushing installed.  A machine shop should be able to source and install one for you.  Just another idea.
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C

Offline Chuck W.

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Re: Pedal issues
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2019, 11:28:11 PM »
Thanks, Rus! That's the drawing I was looking for! My reproduction pedal arm is at least 1" too far to the left, to the point where it hits the steering column.  I have less than 6" between the pedal mounting holes in the two arms. Tomorrow I am going to get the torch out and see if I can match the bends in the old arm. I was thinking about installing a brass sleeve bearing in my old pedal arm, and still may, but my old pedal arm does not have much "meat" to allow for a larger bore for the sleeve. The reproduction pedal arm is much beefier in the shaft bore area.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2019, 03:26:24 PM by Chuck W. »
1964 CJ3B  "Shelby Joy"
1952 M38 w/M100 trailer
1966 M274A2

Offline oldtime

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Re: Pedal issues
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2019, 10:28:13 AM »
I just weld inside the bore of the original pedal levers.
Then get the bores back to size with a die grinder.

Offline Chuck W.

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Re: Pedal issues
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2019, 03:29:25 PM »
I was able to heat the pedal arm and put the "S" bend in it. With it mounted to the cross shaft, I now have exactly 7" between the pedal mounting holes. This reproduction arm looks like another quality Crown product! :-\
« Last Edit: October 08, 2019, 10:54:20 PM by Chuck W. »
1964 CJ3B  "Shelby Joy"
1952 M38 w/M100 trailer
1966 M274A2

Offline Rus Curtis

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Re: Pedal issues
« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2019, 06:34:04 PM »
Well done!
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C