Reproduction Tool Box questions

[squidtone]

Is anyone out there well versed in reproduction Willys Jeep Tool Box lore?

I've patched some reeeeeaaaalllly far gone sheet metal parts on my 3A tub but I finally cried uncle on one thing: the Tool Box (the welded-in one under the passenger seat). Mine is too far gone, so I want to buy a repop.

I think I've read that there were changes in tool boxes over the span of Universal Jeeps, and so I'm wondering what I'm going to get if I buy a repop tool box. A 2A, 3A, 3B, CJ5/6 style? Listings for repops mostly say "1946 to 1975".

Seems like there are differences (over the years) in lids, gutter shapes, drains, script/no script, louver vents, etc.

I don't think I really care too much what kind of hybrid tool box I get unless someone can impart some wisdom that I can't forsee.

So if you have any advice, please chime in! thanks!

[specialty]

 You should be good to go if you get one for a 3A tub since that is what you have. A 2A might work but I am not sure on that. I know on Ebay if you search for any particular part for a 3A that is what will come up. Some may interchange with the 2 A but rarely did I see much past 52 that was interchangeable. The script will cost you more money for sure. I actually went off what was left of my old one and made my own. It's really just the front, the side toward the tunnel, and the top and that's it. It turned out well but if you're looking for everything original as possible buy one. Good luck.
Ronnie

[squidtone]

Thanks Ronnie,
I was kind of thinking of trying to repair mine, and re-doing the script part doesn't fill me with dread as much as rebuilding the gutter sections (half of script and most of the gutter all rusted out).
But the thing with the repops I see is they are listed to fit all years; there is no specific 2A, 3A, 3B repop available...they just offer a hybrid tool box and that's it.

I looked a bit and see that there is an OMIX ADA P/N DMC-3227K which seems right but it is listed for 1946 to 1975. It's got the script.
OMIX also sells another one P/N 12025.10. Same span of years listed, but no script. No real difference in price. Every vendor uses the same photos, so I can't see if they are different from each other in regard to gutter drain, louvers, gutter that accepts gasket or not, etc. Just wondering if others have seen each up close and know the scoop on differences.

[specialty]

I guess it depends on how authentic you are going to be with it. I almost had to make mine because the floor was shot so I fabricated pans and had to rebuild the tunnel also and I really don't know if a repo would have fit it. I had the script part from my old one but didn't cut it out and weld it back in. At that point I was sick of all the body work but since I did it so that it was bolted in and can be removed easily for cleaning out I could one day go back and redo it but it turned out so well I doubt that I ever do. Maybe I can get a few pics and post it.
Is your lid any good? I do have a lid if you need one. 

[1955CJ-5]

I replaced mine along with most of the other sheet metal when I rebuilt my 3a.

Most of the surrounding metal had been replaced so I had to work a little to get the tool box to fit but it eventually did.

I remember it had some sort of funky latch so I removed the new lid and replaced it with the original, which fit perfectly.

Mine has the script, but no drain tube.

I also have a 55 CJ-5 and the tool box has a rotating type latch instead of the clip style on the 3a.

I really would call Walck's or your vendor of choice and see what is available now.

Here are a couple of pictures of mine....this was about three years ago...

[squidtone]

Tool Box update:
I found an OMIX ADA tool box p/n DMC-3227K on Amazon for $204 bucks. It was "Prime" with free shipping. I ordered it lunch time Monday, and got it today, Thursday. It came nicely boxed and padded, and wrapped in bubble wrap with MD Juan on the labels. OMIX ADA had a little warranty slip in there too. So here's my first impressions: It's heavy. Steel gauge seems thick too. It has the "Jeep" script, and in fact there was a sticker on the wrapper that said it was MOPAR certified replacement.



But, it definitely has an "air" of being just about handmade in a sheet metal shop; It's got tool and draw marks all over, wrinkles from marginal die tools, there is a 3-4 inch tear in the metal where the box opening flange is drawn down. It's also warped a little bit too. Having said that, I'm really happy that someone makes these things. The tool marks can be massaged out, The tear can be welded up, and the warp can be pounded out with some hammer work. The overall dimensions seem spot on. It will fit nicely to the floor, riser and wheel well with only minor trimming. They forgot to do a flange fold, but no big deal. There is also no louver on the side and front. I may make these to match original. The script is moved to the right about a half inch from original location.



One last thing i'll mention is just like 1955CJ-5, I think I will remove the lid and toss it. The edge work is pretty bad. The Original lid is much better and I can save mine. I will weld on the original.



None of these things are a deal breaker to me, but I thought I'd mention them.

Overall impression: I'd buy it again, but I'd love to see OMIX ADA's other part number....perhaps it's better? Still, even this one will save alot of work for me.

[athawk11]

Thank you for the write up and photos.  It reallys helps to see how far MD Juan has come...and how much further they need to go.

Twice now I have considered purchasing these replacements.  Both times I didn't...for fear of what I might get.

The good...

-They finally added the rain gutter that all 3A guys get to brag about when we are with a bunch of 2A guys.

-They have the Jeep script.  Years ago, you didn't get this.

The 'not so good'...

- The door and latch is still a 2A style...and still looks poorly made.
-Still no louver.  Not a deal killer, but it can't be that difficult to add.  So why don't they?
-Still no drain shoot and drain hole at the back of the gutter...another 3A bragging point that wouldn't be that difficult to duplicate.

[squidtone]

Okay. I'm going to flog a dead horse here...
I've been working this toolbox to get it to fit. I'm still happy with it, but if you're nitpicky, you will have to break out the metal working tools. Fitting up the new 'box I found that the left side (the side which sits on the trans tunnel) stuck up too high and would not be able to be welded to the back floor/riser. I measured it up and indeed, it's over a quarter inch taller than the original tool box. Here's the curve from the new box hacked out and compared to the old box.



And, the corner piece they used is not shaped well: It is not formed into a 90 degree curve (original curve in front, new curve in back in image below), the way it is welded to the box is not very good looking and the box top lacks the notched quadrants in original box. In other words, the curve on the top of the box is not a nice 90 degree curve "set in" about 3/16"....you'll see what I mean further down...



It was also welded crooked with it sticking up at the edge over the tunnel.



I decided to remove the curve section and replace it with my original curve. The original needed rust repair so I did that, then massaged the new box: I straightened out the side flange and reformed it 3/8" higher so the box top sits lower like it should and meets up flush with the rear floor. I re-flanged the flaps where the curve is to be welded. I also reformed the top so it's got the proper set in "notches" at each end of the curve.



I spent some hours on this and wondered why do I bother with this stuff, but I guess it just is something I enjoy fixing.
So that's it, I promise! I'll report on my thread in the "stock 3A" sectoin about the rest of the metal work underway.

[JeepFever]

  . . .
I spent some hours on this and wondered why do I bother with this stuff, but I guess it just is something I enjoy fixing.
So that's it, I promise! I'll report on my thread in the "stock 3A" section about the rest of the metal work underway.

The corner looks much better,  after your mods.  I would say it was worth the time.     Especially since (like me) you enjoy that type of thing.